Tie rod flip

[Germy]

I'll post some pics once victorious

 

[Germy]

Didn't take long. Does it look right?

 

[Old Dog]

Looks good to me. I see you went with the bigger rods too, good idea.

 

[Germy]

Yeah, just got a kit all together. Now it is engine time. I'm hoping to get the block to the machine shop in the next few weeks. Big parts list too. Money.

 

[tarry99]

View attachment 11672View attachment 11673

Didn't take long. Does it look right?

Germy,

That depends..............without the motor in the vehicle and full weight on the suspension you could have a problem with both the larger diameter tie rod & the Pittman arm colliding with each other and here's why:

When the suspension goes into full compression the front end / axle & Tie Rod travel forward about 1/2"-3/4"inch........since the steering gear / Pittman Arm are in a fixed location they can come into contact with each other when fully compressed.
I also see that your tie road and drag link are level now which would be OK if there was currently full compression..........sometimes the choice of a dropped Pittman Arm has to me made last.

 

[Germy]

Time will tell. Guess I should get old rods out of garbage can

 

[jeepboy45]

Just get a several friends to stand on the front of the frame. (dont ask wife or GF...it will only cause you headaches)

AMC V8 engine should weigh in approx 600 lbs....
My auto tranny was 140 lbs.
My Transfer Case approx 175 lbs.
Your Transmission and t case might be a little different, but close.

I doubt it squats too much to interfere, but at least you can get this off your mind while working on your new engine.

 

[Old Dog]

I didn't notice you had a drop arm. My bad. I used a stock arm on mine.

 

[Germy]

Not sounding promising

 

[CJ]

Not sounding promising

You'll be just fine...

 

[Germy]

Thanks, I needed that<3

 

[Old Dog]

Not sounding promising

My rods are 1 1/4" they come real close to hitting but they don't.

 

[Germy]

Easy fix if its an issue. Concentration on motor now

 

[Germy]

Random ? Will a dual diaphragm power brake booster brake better than an oem single?

 

[tarry99]

Random ? Will a dual diaphragm power brake booster brake better than an oem single?

Dual diaphragm's are just what they say they are..........they are normally used for disc brake systems as they create more pressure versus a single that would normally be on a drum / drum or disc/ drum system and in the event your motor dies you may get and extra pump or two.

 

[Germy]

Doing rear disc once I go one piece. Need a new one, just get the dual now

 

[WACJ5]

Here is a picture of a "big one" on my CJ5 . Good way to not over ream is to check the sleeve ID to the bottom of the reamed hole. When they match, you've gone far enough. Otherwise you do like I did, go to far and end up shortening the sleeve a bit. Not the favored way.

 

[Germy]

I went too deep on one too. Looks to be fine but we will see how it wears

 

[tarry99]

I went too deep on one too. Looks to be fine but we will see how it wears

The reamer system without taking the spindle off and either putting it into a mill or drill press will always have these types of depth failures...........
The better system I believe is the tapered insert whereby you drill or ream a larger hole at the correct spindle location , drop the insert in and tack weld the flange and your done.