Transmission / clutch replacement question

[Flex BT]

I have a T-5 I bought to put in my CJ to replace a T-4 . It came with everything between the engine and the Dana 300 (clutch, pressure plate, bellhousing, etc). What's the best way for me to remove and install everything? Can someone give me a rundown of what order to remove the drive shafts, Transmission from engine, Transfer Case , and skid plate, and what direction to remove? I'm also planning on replacing the rear seal on the engine, any other stuff I should take care of during this down time? Since I'm removing the bellhousing do I need to remove the shift column to remove / install the Transmission ? Thanks in advance!!

 

[BusaDave9]

first remove the driveshafts. Be careful not to let the caps fall off the U joints or you may loose the needle bearings.
Support the tailhousing of the TCase and them remove the skidplate.
I prefer to remove the TCase then the tranny separately. Since you have a very light T-4 some may chime in saying to take them off as a unit.
If you take them off one at a time you will need to move the support to the tranny. When you remove the tranny the engine will tilt a little on it's own it it should be fine without any other support.
Next remove the bellhousing and replace the clutch. The T-4 and T-5 use the same bellhousing so no need to swap them out. After the new cluch is aligned then put it all back together with the T-5 .
That's it. Let us know how it goes.

Oh, yes the rear seal. To replace that you need to remove the right engine mount so I would do that before removeing the tranny. That way you have the tranny mount and one engine mount holding up the engine. You will also have to remove a brace that goes between the framerails under the oil pan. Support the front of the engine at the harmonic balancer and remove the oil pan. Remove the rear main bearing. The rear seal is 2 pieces. With the rear main bearing removed it's easy to remove the half of the seal on the rear bearing cap. To remove the top half of the seal push one end with needle nose pliers then grab the tip that pops out the other side. If it won't move you may have to loosen all the other bearing caps to relive pressure on the top seal.

 

[Petescj]

Dave I need to replace the rear main seal on my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l as well. Im planning on doing it this week. I was wondering why you need to remove the engine mount? Ive done the rear main on a 360 in the past and dont remember doing that. That said they are 2 completely different animals. Just wondered why before my curiosity got the best of me and made me head out under the Cj in 95* weather.

first remove the driveshafts. Be careful not to let the caps fall off the U joints or you may loose the needle bearings.
Support the tailhousing of the TCase and them remove the skidplate.
I prefer to remove the TCase then the tranny separately. Since you have a very light T-4 some may chime in saying to take them off as a unit.
If you take them off one at a time you will need to move the support to the tranny. When you remove the tranny the engine will tilt a little on it's own it it should be fine without any other support.
Next remove the bellhousing and replace the clutch. The T-4 and T-5 use the same bellhousing so no need to swap them out. After the new cluch is aligned then put it all back together with the T-5 .
That's it. Let us know how it goes.

Oh, yes the rear seal. To replace that you need to remove the right engine mount so I would do that before removeing the tranny. That way you have the tranny mount and one engine mount holding up the engine. You will also have to remove a brace that goes between the framerails under the oil pan. Support the front of the engine at the harmonic balancer and remove the oil pan. Remove the rear main bearing. The rear seal is 2 pieces. With the rear main bearing removed it's easy to remove the half of the seal on the rear bearing cap. To remove the top half of the seal push one end with needle nose pliers then grab the tip that pops out the other side. If it won't move you may have to loosen all the other bearing caps to relive pressure on the top seal.

 

[BusaDave9]

I was wondering why you need to remove the engine mount?

The right motor mount blocks the oil pan from being removed. This is only a problem with the strait six.

And the brace I mentioned that goes under the oil pan is bolted in place with one bolt on each motor mount.
And I found this pic of the seal

 

[Petescj]

Never knew that. Yayy more work.

 

[Flex BT]

Good gravy that was more work than I thought on the rear seal. Would it be the same amount of work if I did the tranny job first, then came back and did the rear seal later? I thought the Transmission had to be out to get to it but if not I will probably save that part for another day.

 

[Petescj]

Alot of times when your rear main seal leaks it oils down the clutch. Depending how bad it leaks I would do it now. You really dont want to be dropping the Transmission again to replace the clutch , not to mention the cost.

Good gravy that was more work than I thought on the rear seal. Would it be the same amount of work if I did the tranny job first, then came back and did the rear seal later? I thought the Transmission had to be out to get to it but if not I will probably save that part for another day.