Vacuum-Emissions???

[dslywalker]

Sorry my bad i was thinking of another post.They should be one on top the other like in the pic. The manual says 5/16 line on the bottom which goes to the carb and 1/4" on top to the fuel return

 

[dslywalker]

The 2 items you think should be plugged.One is the CTO valve with the 3 ports and the other is a egr dual cto valve.They are probably inoperable by now.They were part of the vacumn control system.I wouldn't worry about them until you get it running.The cto valve and egr valve can be added later if you want.I don't have mine hooked but heard on the forum you get better performance if they are.Hopefully someone can answer that question.
If you can afford it I'd get a 82 service technical manual.I'll pm you a link
Mike

 

[dslywalker]

Did you get your pvc valve yet?It should route like the in pic of the fuel filter.I think the original valve had 2 openings on top.You'll only need one opening.The valve should be a 90 degree valve.
Mike

 

[RanchGirl]

The 2 items you think should be plugged.One is the CTO valve with the 3 ports and the other is a egr dual cto valve.They are probably inoperable by now.They were part of the vacumn control system.I wouldn't worry about them until you get it running.The cto valve and egr valve can be added later if you want.I don't have mine hooked but heard on the forum you get better performance if they are.Hopefully someone can answer that question.
If you can afford it I'd get a 82 service technical manual.I'll pm you a link
Mike

Thanks for the info on the fuel lines. I may have them installed correctly, but I do need to go back and check that I have the correct sizes. I'll check on the manual. Does it explain things in a great deal of detail and give pics?(I don't think I can do a thing w/o pictures). I have the Chilton Manual, but it tends to confuse my little novice brain, since I'm new at being an Auto Mechanic (hehehahaha...) When I get my Jeep running, do I need to plug these valves off or something? I'm asking, because I have had the Jeep running. Actually when I got home last night, I put on the new breather cap and the new pcv valve and started her up. I still have to look for the vacuum leak. Since these valves seem to be open to the atmosphere, will they contribute to the vacuum leak?

I know you're probably getting tired of typing to explain things to me, but I have another question I could really use an answer to this afternoon. As I said, I have had my Jeep running, it just would not idle. Last night it started right up the first time I tried it (I was so happy, thought I had done something), but then it went dead like it was starving for gas. I thought I had that problem fixed when I cleaned out the gas tank, blew-put all fuel lines, put on new fuel filter, and put on a new fuel pump. With all that said, my question is, how much gas does a new fuel pump put out? I disconnected the discharge line of the fuel pump and turned the engine over a few times, and I did have gas coming out the hose but not a lot. What sort of flow should I have coming off this pump? (a trickle or a heavy flow) Thank U so much for the help.

 

[RanchGirl]

Did you get your pvc valve yet?It should route like the in pic of the fuel filter.I think the original valve had 2 openings on top.You'll only need one opening.The valve should be a 90 degree valve.
Mike

Yes, I did get the new pvc and the one in the pics I posted is the new one. The guy at the Auto Parts Store sold me the original design, so I plugged the extra opening off. The old pvc that I took off had the extra opening plugged off, so I plugged off the extra opening on the new one. I didn't know I could get a 90 degree valve with just one opening that would work.

 

[IOPort51]

she does have an air pump and the injection manifold is still in place.

 

[RanchGirl]

she does have an air pump and the injection manifold is still in place.

Thanks IO. Do my pics show the air pump and the injections manifold? I can look myself, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Bet you guys are laughing about this Female Jeeper trying to work on a motor, when she is pretty much clueless. I know you'd have to be chuckling every now and then, because I laugh at myself sometimes. It's good laughs, though, and I'm enjoying the learning process. Just hope I don't tire you guys out. I know it's quite the challenge dealing with someone as inexperienced as I am. If I can get it running, I promise I will not try to rebuilt the engine on-line. (hehehehehehehahaha-LOL)

 

[dslywalker]

Thanks for the info on the fuel lines. I may have them installed correctly, but I do need to go back and check that I have the correct sizes. I'll check on the manual. Does it explain things in a great deal of detail and give pics?(I don't think I can do a thing w/o pictures). I have the Chilton Manual, but it tends to confuse my little novice brain, since I'm new at being an Auto Mechanic (hehehahaha...) When I get my Jeep running, do I need to plug these valves off or something? I'm asking, because I have had the Jeep running. Actually when I got home last night, I put on the new breather cap and the new pcv valve and started her up. I still have to look for the vacuum leak. Since these valves seem to be open to the atmosphere, will they contribute to the vacuum leak

I know you're probably getting tired of typing to explain things to me, but I have another question I could really use an answer to this afternoon. As I said, I have had my Jeep running, it just would not idle. Last night it started right up the first time I tried it (I was so happy, thought I had done something), but then it went dead like it was starving for gas. I thought I had that problem fixed when I cleaned out the gas tank, blew-put all fuel lines, put on new fuel filter, and put on a new fuel pump. With all that said, my question is, how much gas does a new fuel pump put out? I disconnected the discharge line of the fuel pump and turned the engine over a few times, and I did have gas coming out the hose but not a lot. What sort of flow should I have coming off this pump? (a trickle or a heavy flow) Thank U so much for the help.

The CTO valves don't need plugged
The manual has quite a few pics and is easy to read.There more geared to your year also.Instead of several years.
If you had gas coming out your okay.You have to imagine it turning faster when the engine is running and putting out a steady flow.It will probably come down to taking your carb apart.Carbs aren't my expertise but where your fuel line enters your carb at the brass fitting there could be a brass filter there.You have to disconnect the fuel line.Use wrenches on these.Hold a wrench on the brass fitting on the carb the other wrench on the fuel line fitting and take it off.Next take carb fitting off.There will be a gasket behind that fitting it might tear but replaceable.Behind that fitting could be a brass filter or needle and seat.Clean them out with carb cleaner and replace.If that don't work then you have to take the carb top off and go for the needle and seat and float in there.It can get pretty wild if you never done it before. You'll need a carb kit most likely then.
Then main thing is can the carb be fixed with some adjustments or rebuild or a little cleaning here and there.If the carb is shot there no point at throwing money at it.
Lets see if someone else can jump in here and help you on this carb.I'm going to include a pic of the carb I think you got.
Mike

 

[dslywalker]

Yesterday you ask something about a vacuum hose on the booster. I don't think I got a very good picture of it, but I did see a hose connected to the brake booster. What is the purpose of this hose?

It provides vaccumn to the brake booster so you can brake easier.Otherwise the pedal would feel hard like your never braking.See that plastic piece that goes into the round brake booster behind the master cylinder.You might take that to the parts store and replace it and the line to if it seems hard and cracked.At least you know there replaced and your gonna be able to brake easier.There not to pricey

 

[IOPort51]

your doing fine don't worry about it.
the air pump is the cylindrical thing on the front drivers side of the engine, I would guess it has a pulley on it that more than likely has no belt on it. the air injection manifold is the system of small tubes that bolt in 6 places to the intake manifold, the crumpled hose fitting sticking straight up near the back of the motor is what is left of a check valve at the intake of the air injection manifold. as this stuff goes it is nessicary for you to decide what way you want to go with this project. Most will say the smog system is junk and get rid of it. On the other hand if a restoration is what you have in mind I would think having a working emmisions system would be a good thing. This is something we all have to decide, classic car or off road toy?

Thanks IO. Do my pics show the air pump and the injections manifold? I can look myself, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at. Bet you guys are laughing about this Female Jeeper trying to work on a motor, when she is pretty much clueless. I know you'd have to be chuckling every now and then, because I laugh at myself sometimes. It's good laughs, though, and I'm enjoying the learning process. Just hope I don't tire you guys out. I know it's quite the challenge dealing with someone as inexperienced as I am. If I can get it running, I promise I will not try to rebuilt the engine on-line. (hehehehehehehahaha-LOL)

 

[dslywalker]

Hey IO can you give her a hand with the Carb

 

[dslywalker]

Here's a little info on the carb
Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem

 

[IOPort51]

when you startedit how did it run??
this is a good place to start, but lets see if we have a problem first.

Here's a little info on the carb
Easy Fix for Jeep 258 Carter BBD Idle Problem

 

[dslywalker]

Thanks for the info on the fuel lines. I may have them installed correctly, but I do need to go back and check that I have the correct sizes. I'll check on the manual. Does it explain things in a great deal of detail and give pics?(I don't think I can do a thing w/o pictures). I have the Chilton Manual, but it tends to confuse my little novice brain, since I'm new at being an Auto Mechanic (hehehahaha...) When I get my Jeep running, do I need to plug these valves off or something? I'm asking, because I have had the Jeep running. Actually when I got home last night, I put on the new breather cap and the new pcv valve and started her up. I still have to look for the vacuum leak. Since these valves seem to be open to the atmosphere, will they contribute to the vacuum leak?

I know you're probably getting tired of typing to explain things to me, but I have another question I could really use an answer to this afternoon. As I said, I have had my Jeep running, it just would not idle. Last night it started right up the first time I tried it (I was so happy, thought I had done something), but then it went dead like it was starving for gas. I thought I had that problem fixed when I cleaned out the gas tank, blew-put all fuel lines, put on new fuel filter, and put on a new fuel pump. With all that said, my question is, how much gas does a new fuel pump put out? I disconnected the discharge line of the fuel pump and turned the engine over a few times, and I did have gas coming out the hose but not a lot. What sort of flow should I have coming off this pump? (a trickle or a heavy flow) Thank U so much for the help.

Here's where she kinda described how it run IO
Mike

 

[IOPort51]

When you work the throttle at the carb can you see fuel squirt into the intake??
If not you may not have filled the bowl yet or have a clogged jet, stuck metering pin or one of three or four other problems but lets try this first.

It will take a bit for the fuel to fill the carb and it happens a lot faster when the engine is running. I would start with a can of B-12 chem tool spray and fill the bowl with it and spray the inside and outside of the carb with it and let it set for a bit with the stuff in the bowl. you may ask how it got into the bowl, spray it in the white plastic nipple on the front top of the carb,this is the bowl vent, this should get it there. after half hour or so start it. the B-12 will run quite nicely until the fuel pump fills the carb and the engine should continue to run on the fresh fuel from the tank.
Wear goggles when spraying the cleaner it is not something you want in your eyes.
If this fails let us know and we will go to plan B. This is just to clear the carb out a bit and get it primed. Your doing good, you seem to be a woman of patience, this will be a real asset in this project.

 

[IOPort51]

thanks Sly, glad some one has there head out where the sun is shinning. QUOTE=dslywalker;47956]Here's where she kinda described how it run IO
Mike[/QUOTE]

 

[dslywalker]

thanks Sly, glad some one has there head out where the sun is shinning. QUOTE=dslywalker;47956]Here's where she kinda described how it run IO
Mike

[/QUOTE]
Believe me the sun is shining in Arizona
I put a couple of carb pics up on the 4th or 5th page.I think its the carb she has.One was just a pic and the other was break down of the parts.
Thanx for jumping in.Carbs aren;t my expertise
Mike

 

[IOPort51]

I have yet to meet a carb expert but if you meet one let me know, I have questions.

Believe me the sun is shining in Arizona
I put a couple of carb pics up on the 4th or 5th page.I think its the carb she has.One was just a pic and the other was break down of the parts.
Thanx for jumping in.Carbs aren;t my expertise
Mike[/QUOTE]

 

[Trapshooter]

I just rebuilt my Carter BBD on my '86 CJ7 this last weekend. After reading this entire thread, I would bet the idle tubes are plugged on RanchGirl's carb. Performing the items listed in the "easy fix for idle problems" should help and maybe solve the problem as long as there are no large vacuum leaks.

The other issue could be a bad purge valve on the canister which if bad is a fair size vacuum leak all by itself. There is an easy check for the purge valve; when looking down at the canister, pinch the second hose from the front, if the idle drops the purge valve is bad. Unfortunately the only fix is to replace the canister.

IO's suggestion using the Chemtool B-12 is a good one!! It could get some of the nasties out without having to disassemble the carb.

 

[IOPort51]

I think it would be a good thing if she doesn't have to learn to build carbs first rattle out of the box.
We shall see.

I just rebuilt my Carter BBD on my '86 CJ7 this last weekend. After reading this entire thread, I would bet the idle tubes are plugged on RanchGirl's carb. Performing the items listed in the "easy fix for idle problems" should help and maybe solve the problem as long as there are no large vacuum leaks.

The other issue could be a bad purge valve on the canister which if bad is a fair size vacuum leak all by itself. There is an easy check for the purge valve; when looking down at the canister, pinch the second hose from the front, if the idle drops the purge valve is bad. Unfortunately the only fix is to replace the canister.

IO's suggestion using the Chemtool B-12 is a good one!! It could get some of the nasties out without having to disassemble the carb.