want to upgrade to hyd clutch

[jpride]

I have a 85 CJ7 with a 360. I wanted to install a hyd clutch. Has anyone ever done this before. If so who or where is the best place to get parts?

 

[fzsk4p]

I have a 85 CJ7 with a 360. I wanted to install a hyd clutch. Has anyone ever done this before. If so who or where is the best place to get parts?

Sure it is doable. Would help if we knew what Transmission you are running.

Advance Adapters or Novak come to mind. Plus Yj`s had internal and external slave clutches.

 

[Rescue Diver]

I've wondered about this one too. Will a YJ slave cylinder bolt to the bell housing for a factory T-18 ? What about the pedal linkage?

 

[CJim7]

I've wondered about this one too. Will a YJ slave cylinder bolt to the bell housing for a factory T-18 ? What about the pedal linkage?

You dont want a YJ internal slave. That idea ranks right up there with the D35 C-clip axle.

You can source all the parts you need from Napa (slave, master, and lines)...except for the pedal assembly. That, Im pretty sure would be best found in some classified section, Ebay, Craigslist. Try to find a stock assembly....Anybody aftermarket that is making them will want a fortune for them

Edit: Your bell housing will have the mounting ears (2 holes, maybe 2½-3 inches apart) Get a measurement between those holes...If I remember correctly, there are a few slave cylinders out there that have different measurements between mounting bosses.

 

[Rescue Diver]

You dont want a YJ internal slave. That idea ranks right up there with the D35 C-clip axle.

You can source all the parts you need from Napa (slave, master, and lines)...except for the pedal assembly. That, Im pretty sure would be best found in some classified section, Ebay, Craigslist. Try to find a stock assembly....Anybody aftermarket that is making them will want a fortune for them

Edit: Your bell housing will have the mounting ears (2 holes, maybe 2½-3 inches apart) Get a measurement between those holes...If I remember correctly, there are a few slave cylinders out there that have different measurements between mounting bosses.

I was asking about a YJ external slave if it would fit, so I would know what to ask for from the parts store. I would never install a used master or slave, but I might be inclined to pull some from something at pick-n-pull or off of craigslist to use as cores and for linkage and whatever wouldn't be available from the parts store if the price was right.

So a YJ pedal assembly should work with a lot of different masters?
What about linkage?

It would probably be best if I pull everything from another vehicle so I can know what all parts I need, and then swap the old master and slave for new ones at the store.

 

[CJim7]

I was asking about a YJ external slave if it would fit, so I would know what to ask for from the parts store. I would never install a used master or slave, but I might be inclined to pull some from something at pick-n-pull or off of craigslist to use as cores and for linkage and whatever wouldn't be available from the parts store if the price was right.

So a YJ pedal assembly should work with a lot of different masters?
What about linkage?

It would probably be best if I pull everything from another vehicle so I can know what all parts I need, and then swap the old master and slave for new ones at the store.

I would source CJ parts from the parts store. YJ clutch parts come as a unit (meaning the slave comes with the line) and they are expensive. The CJ parts will be individual (slave, lines, master...) Plus there is a better probability of matching a CJ slave to a T-18 bell housing. I really dont know if a YJ pedal assembly will work with a CJ master cyl. There could be a 'throw variance' between the pedal and the piston for the master cyl.

Honestly, I would just look at CJ clutch components and a CJ pedal for ease of installment.

There really is no "linkage", the pedal attaches directly to the plunger of the master cylinder through the firewall. Again, compatability is suspect

 

[Rescue Diver]

I would source CJ parts from the parts store. YJ clutch parts come as a unit (meaning the slave comes with the line) and they are expensive. The CJ parts will be individual (slave, lines, master...) Plus there is a better probability of matching a CJ slave to a T-18 bell housing. I really dont know if a YJ pedal assembly will work with a CJ master cyl. There could be a 'throw variance' between the pedal and the piston for the master cyl.

Honestly, I would just look at CJ clutch components and a CJ pedal for ease of installment.

There really is no "linkage", the pedal attaches directly to the plunger of the master cylinder through the firewall. Again, compatability is suspect

I wasn't aware that they ever put a hydraulic clutch in any CJ?

Are you sure the clutch pedal for a standard clutch is different than one that connects to the rod from the master cylinder?

 

[CJim7]

I wasn't aware that they ever put a hydraulic clutch in any CJ?

Are you sure the clutch pedal for a standard clutch is different than one that connects to the rod from the master cylinder?

Yep, they made a lot of hydro clutch CJ's, mine included. And yes, the clutch pedal is different between the two.

 

[RangerRick]

My 85 CJ7 had a hydraulic clutch from the factory in it. I kept the hydraulic when converting to the V8 engine. The master cylinder is the same and the slave with line parts were different. They came separate and I had to modify the slave slightly to clear the oil filter by grinding just a slight bit off the gusset cast into the slave. I think Omix-Ada and Rugged Ridge are the company names the parts were sold under. They are available from Quadratec, 4WD hardware or probably even Collins Bros. would carry the parts. It wasn't that expensive and here is a writeup on how to convert a CJ5 /7/8 clutch pedal to use the hydraulic master cylinder : Hydraulic Clutch . It's really easy to do the conversion without special clutch pedal arms etc. I would add the special nylon bearing sleeve over the pivot stud though that was used by Jeep and not shown in this picture of parts. You can order one for a 1990 5 speed XJ Cherokee and it works perfectly as a substitute. It will keep the clutch pivot bolt from wearing out by virtue of metal-to-metal contact with the clutch rod eyelet of the master cylinder. RangerRick

 

[CJim7]

That's a good write-up Rick.
When I swapped in my T-18 , I kept the T-5 bell housing so I was able to use the stock slave cylinder without mounting issues.

 

[JR74CJ5]

Was kind of looking to do the same thing to my 74 CJ5

I was looking at these parts:

Pedal assem. http://wilwood.com/Pedals/PedalList.aspx (8th one down the page...)

And doing a custom bracket myself similar to Novak's here:
Hydraulic Slave Cylinder Retrofit for AMC Engines

Not saying those would necessarily work for you bud, just for info purposes...

 

[Rescue Diver]

My 85 CJ7 had a hydraulic clutch from the factory in it. I kept the hydraulic when converting to the V8 engine. The master cylinder is the same and the slave with line parts were different. They came separate and I had to modify the slave slightly to clear the oil filter by grinding just a slight bit off the gusset cast into the slave. I think Omix-Ada and Rugged Ridge are the company names the parts were sold under. They are available from Quadratec, 4WD hardware or probably even Collins Bros. would carry the parts. It wasn't that expensive and here is a writeup on how to convert a CJ5 /7/8 clutch pedal to use the hydraulic master cylinder : Hydraulic Clutch . It's really easy to do the conversion without special clutch pedal arms etc. I would add the special nylon bearing sleeve over the pivot stud though that was used by Jeep and not shown in this picture of parts. You can order one for a 1990 5 speed XJ Cherokee and it works perfectly as a substitute. It will keep the clutch pivot bolt from wearing out by virtue of metal-to-metal contact with the clutch rod eyelet of the master cylinder. RangerRick

Great Info! Thanks!!! I'm going to have to put this on my to do list!

 

[73CJ]

I did my conversion based on that write-up. No more losing the clutch during frame twisting holes.

I turned an adapter for the push rod on the clutch release arm to make it fully adjustable.

Slave bolted right up to the T-14 bellhousing tab.

 

[RangerRick]

Another quick note,
If you have headers or the exhaust runs closer than 2 inches from the slave cylinder, make sure you install some kind of heat shield like is shown in the writeup or the seals in your slave will prematurely fail due to the excessive heat. Now another hint is to use two pieces of all-thread and a union with two nuts for the link rod at the slave cylinder. Fit the nylon tip onto it at the clutch fork and use a grinder to slightly round the end that fits into the slave cylinder's piston cup. If there isn't enough travel to completely disengage the clutch when stepping on the pedal, you can adjust the all-thread a small bit and lock down with the jam nuts for your disengagement "fine-tuning". Make sure there is a good sized helper spring installed to keep that throwout bearing completely away from the clutch diaphragm fingers and seated against the nylon tip of your slave cylinder link rod. Once you go to hydraulic clutch linkage, you'll wonder why it took so long to do this upgrade!

RangerRick

 

[Rescue Diver]

Another quick note,
If you have headers or the exhaust runs closer than 2 inches from the slave cylinder, make sure you install some kind of heat shield like is shown in the writeup or the seals in your slave will prematurely fail due to the excessive heat. Now another hint is to use two pieces of all-thread and a union with two nuts for the link rod at the slave cylinder. Fit the nylon tip onto it at the clutch fork and use a grinder to slightly round the end that fits into the slave cylinder's piston cup. If there isn't enough travel to completely disengage the clutch when stepping on the pedal, you can adjust the all-thread a small bit and lock down with the jam nuts for your disengagement "fine-tuning". Make sure there is a good sized helper spring installed to keep that throwout bearing completely away from the clutch diaphragm fingers and seated against the nylon tip of your slave cylinder link rod. Once you go to hydraulic clutch linkage, you'll wonder why it took so long to do this upgrade!

RangerRick

As soon as I finish the 4.0 head conversion nexy weekend, I'll be running a stock 95 Cherokee exhaust manifold.

I wonder how well that will clear the slave?

 

[Rescue Diver]

Another quick note,
If you have headers or the exhaust runs closer than 2 inches from the slave cylinder, make sure you install some kind of heat shield like is shown in the writeup or the seals in your slave will prematurely fail due to the excessive heat. Now another hint is to use two pieces of all-thread and a union with two nuts for the link rod at the slave cylinder. Fit the nylon tip onto it at the clutch fork and use a grinder to slightly round the end that fits into the slave cylinder's piston cup. If there isn't enough travel to completely disengage the clutch when stepping on the pedal, you can adjust the all-thread a small bit and lock down with the jam nuts for your disengagement "fine-tuning". Make sure there is a good sized helper spring installed to keep that throwout bearing completely away from the clutch diaphragm fingers and seated against the nylon tip of your slave cylinder link rod. Once you go to hydraulic clutch linkage, you'll wonder why it took so long to do this upgrade!

RangerRick

As soon as I finish the 4.0 head conversion next weekend, I'll be running a stock 95 Cherokee exhaust manifold.

I wonder how well that will clear the slave?

 

[Mattduran]

A lot of you guys wondering abt converting over to hydraulic clutch this can be a fairly easy job and the benefits are much better then manual. 76-86 cj hydraulic slave cylinder, master cylinder seem to be the best donors. You can buy them new. I have used a S-10 setup from a junk yard with minor modification to the firewall, and both rod lengths. One thing to check and see if you even have a mount for the slave cylinder to bolt into. A lot of older jeeps didn't. I welded on some mounts and did the trick in a 73 cj. If your running a body lift and off roading i'm sure you know the pain of manual clutch setups. Relatively easy job when talking abt jeep mods. Best of luck!

 

[Stormrider]

I would love to convert mine but not sure what I need and how to do it. I have 77 CJ7 with a AMC 304 and T-4 tranny I think. Too bad there isn't a kit and detailed instructions for those of us that don't do alot of mods....

 

[Mattduran]

I would love to convert mine but not sure what I need and how to do it. I have 77 CJ7 with a AMC 304 and T-4 tranny I think. Too bad there isn't a kit and detailed instructions for those of us that don't do alot of mods....

Really. This is a great place to start. Not that challenging of a project when it comes to jeep projects! Read my above post and just Get in there and do it. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

 

[73CJ]

This hydraulic clutch setup (MC, Ch

TChhisHydraulic Clutch Check out this link!

80-83 CJ 4cyl slave and master cylinder.

Not hard to do. You don't need YJ pedals, just a clevis pin or shoulder bolt.e.

There are kits, but most are over priced and it's still up to you to do the mods - cut the hole, hook up the pin to the master cyl and mount the slave.

Go for it! You'll love it wheeling, but won't matter if you run a tar baby. . .