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want to upgrade to hyd clutch

want to upgrade to hyd clutch
Thanks for the pics 73CJ! I plan to make this upgrade after I'm done with my 4.0 head swap. There's one more thing I'll have to do for mine that most won't. With my fiberglass tub, I'll need to make a couple steel plates to reinforce the firewall where the clutch master bolts to it.

Is the line from the master to the slave steel or do they make a rubber high pressure line for that?
 
With my fiberglass tub, I'll need to make a couple steel plates to reinforce the firewall where the clutch master bolts to it.

Is the line from the master to the slave steel or do they make a rubber high pressure line for that?
The line is both steel and rubber swedged together with a factory crimp band. I ordered mine from Quadratec and probably paid for it for doing that but when I talked to them on the phone and told them what I was doing, the guy knew right away and sent me the correct part the first time. The part number for the hose from Qudadratec is 52006.00, it's 24.99. The part number on the master cylinder is 52007.00 and it costs 86.99. The slave cylinder was part number 52010.04 (Iron Duke) or .00 (all except 4 cylinder AMC). I told them it was converted to a V8 and re-used the bellhousing from the Iron Duke so your slave cylinder will differ depending on what engine/Transmission you are running. It will be one of the above if you have a V8 or 4.3L V6 Chevy conversion but if you have an AMC motor like the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l or 242 (4.0)or a AMC 232 i6 , or even a Dauntless Buick 225 V6 , your part will be different so you'll have to look it up or tell them what engine is in your CJ. As far as your fiberglass tub, you'll have to fabricate some type of reinforcement plate bracket between the firewall to stiffen up your firewall for the master cylinder and it shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to spread out the force around the master.

RangerRick
 
The line is both steel and rubber swedged together with a factory crimp band. I ordered mine from Quadratec and probably paid for it for doing that but when I talked to them on the phone and told them what I was doing, the guy knew right away and sent me the correct part the first time. The part number for the hose from Qudadratec is 52006.00, it's 24.99. The part number on the master cylinder is 52007.00 and it costs 86.99. The slave cylinder was part number 52010.04 (Iron Duke) or .00 (all except 4 cylinder AMC). I told them it was converted to a V8 and re-used the bellhousing from the Iron Duke so your slave cylinder will differ depending on what engine/Transmission you are running. It will be one of the above if you have a V8 or 4.3L V6 Chevy conversion but if you have an AMC motor like the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l or 242 (4.0)or a AMC 232 i6 , or even a Dauntless Buick 225 V6 , your part will be different so you'll have to look it up or tell them what engine is in your CJ. As far as your fiberglass tub, you'll have to fabricate some type of reinforcement plate bracket between the firewall to stiffen up your firewall for the master cylinder and it shouldn't be too hard to figure out how to spread out the force around the master.

RangerRick
Thanks for all the info. I'm running a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l with an original Jeep T-18 tranny and stock AMC bell housing. The bolts that mount the clutch linkage bracket to the bell housing look like they're above the fork so whatever slave cylinder I get, it'll need the piston mounted lower than the mounting bolts to line up correctly.
 
I am doing this conversion RIGHT NOW!!
It is my wifes 1980 CJ5 with a AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and a T-176 ? 4 speed Transmission .
I have been fighting the clutch pedal for the past 2 days trying to get it off. There is a spring on the pedal that is a bear to get off.
I finally got the pedal off last night but am now faced with figuring out how to get the pedal spring back onto the pedal when I am done.

I got my kit for this conversion from Parts Mike for $199. It comes with the master cyl, slave cyl, steel braided hose & the plastic knob for the slave push rod.
 
This thread is worthless without pics! :wtf:
 
This thread is worthless without pics! :wtf:

Well your SOL for any pictures from me right now. Both my cameras are in my motorhome and it is 2 hours away getting worked on so I can't take any pictures. Normally I would be taking all kinds when I am doing the fab stuff. SORRY:(
 
im looking at doing the same thing with my CJ5 ,

im running a 360/np435/Dana 300 combo, i was thinking, because im using a 1 ton Transmission , would it be best to use a slave that can handle it? would the novak conversions one be strong enough? im not entirely sure, i know that some broncos used the np435 as well,

i can get a slave for 69-77 f350 slave, which is for the np435, mind you i will have to get the proper lines to go from the slave to the master, i was thinking of using a ford f250 master cylinder but im not sure about the pedal assembly, i would perfer to snag something out of the junk yard as mock up, instead of spending 400 dollars on a brand new pedal assembly, plus the avalibility of having the parts kicking around the junk yard as well is a bonus,
 
im looking at doing the same thing with my CJ5 ,

im running a 360/np435/Dana 300 combo, i was thinking, because im using a 1 ton Transmission , would it be best to use a slave that can handle it? would the novak conversions one be strong enough? im not entirely sure, i know that some broncos used the np435 as well,

i can get a slave for 69-77 f350 slave, which is for the np435, mind you i will have to get the proper lines to go from the slave to the master, i was thinking of using a ford f250 master cylinder but im not sure about the pedal assembly, i would perfer to snag something out of the junk yard as mock up, instead of spending 400 dollars on a brand new pedal assembly, plus the avalibility of having the parts kicking around the junk yard as well is a bonus,

:)You say your running a Clutch now........why the change to another pedal assembly?
Novak slave is the best simply because it has more travel than any others on the market.

Clutch master cylinders need to be matched to the slave.........(Normally you will see a 7/8" bore master with a 3/4" slave but some use 13/16").....

When making this conversion Pedal ratios and travel at the Master gets converted to volume pushed which that volume at the slave converts back to travel at the Slave.........(Rule: smaller diameter bore = more pressure but less voulume and the reverse also applys)
Most clutch pressure plates require about .500 to .700 of travel of the throwout bearing including free play for complete release.

One last thing: at the Bell Housing where the clutch fork attaches to the ball pivot the ratio from the pull or push point on the fork to the throwout bearing is 2:1 so in order to get .500 to .700 at the throwout bearing it has to be twice that much movement at the slave.

This is not hard just requires some thinking.

:D:D:D:D
 

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