Well I picked up a new motor today...

Well I picked up a new motor today...
rumblephish said:
I'm running 32's right now and I'll be stepping up to 33's when all is said and done. I'm looking at Supieior axles. I didn't think about the truss, thanks. I'm reading up on how to beef up the 20.... :D
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In the long run with big tires & V8 power IMHO it's cheaper to swap to a quality axle.
That way you save the ulcer & you don't have to <-BAD WORD->foot around worrying when it's going to "Pop".:cool:
 
Cheepjeep85 said:
i read somewhere once that the r&p in the AMC20 is 1/4'' bigger than a Dana 44 , and that with modification (tubes welded, trussed) they can be as strong. i read it somewhere, take it as you will
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As it has been said, yes you can put lipstick on a pig.;)
The model 20 does have a bigger ring gear.
It also has a weaker center chunk, that has been know to crack even if you managed to successfully keep the thinner axle read weaker axle tubes from spinning in the center chunk. Then you can look at the smaller wheel bearings. You also have to find a good replacement axle set as sadly some are much better than others. Granted some people make them live, but not with high horsepower V8 engines, wide tires & judicious applications of the loud petal.
For the money you spend trying to make due. I would build a 9" ford, 8.8 ford, Dana 44 . I 'll bet I have less in my Dana 60 than most guy have in their beefed up Model 20's. Granted I got a smoking deal, but their out there.;)
 
Cheepjeep85 said:
so what your saying its still pig huh. axles aren't really my strong point
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There are some guys around here that run them, but most don't run modified V8's & oversized wheels & tires. The biggest 76'-86' CJ issues IMHO The AMC model 20 rear, The weak transmissions: T-4 ,T-5 & rust.;)
 
So my 360 build up is going to be a slow process. I've decided to take my time and build it right. Which means more funding needed, which means it will take much longer to build. So in the mean time I'm getting the AMC 304 up and running. Replaced the timing chain cover and the water pump this past weekend. I will put a new fuel pump on it and mount the air and ps pumps, install the radiator and a few other odds and ends, put a fresh battery in her and see if she'll fire up. Like a dumba** I didn't mark the position of the distributor when I pulled it so it'll be fun reinstalling it. I've cranked the motor a few revolutions pulling/instaling the harmonic balancer so I guess it wouldn't matter. Any tricks to keep in mind when putting the distributor back?
 
rumblephish said:
So my 360 build up is going to be a slow process. I've decided to take my time and build it right. Which means more funding needed, which means it will take much longer to build. So in the mean time I'm getting the AMC 304 up and running. Replaced the timing chain cover and the water pump this past weekend. I will put a new fuel pump on it and mount the air and ps pumps, install the radiator and a few other odds and ends, put a fresh battery in her and see if she'll fire up. Like a dumba** I didn't mark the position of the distributor when I pulled it so it'll be fun reinstalling it. I've cranked the motor a few revolutions pulling/instaling the harmonic balancer so I guess it wouldn't matter. Any tricks to keep in mind when putting the distributor back?
Click to expand...

Installing if the engine has been rotated with the distributor removed.
The same applies for finding TDC . Once you have TDC located correctly, you need to rotate the engine two revolutions. Go one full turn and on the next turn stop at what you normally have your initial advance set at instead of going all the way to zero again. I set mine at 12 degrees BTDC but yours may be less. This sets the static timing and will let the engine start without much cold cranking. Cold cranking will put excessive wear on any new parts, especially a new cam and lifters. Now put the cap on the distributor and put a mark directly inline with the #1 tower of the cap on the distributor body. Install the distributor and line up the rotor with the new mark you just made. This is called static timing the engine. This sets the initial timing exactly, so you won't have to be in a hurry to check the timing with a light after the engine is running.
You will more than likely need to turn the oil pump driveshaft so the distributor will drop all the way down. As you lower the distributor into the engine, the distributor shaft will go into the oil pump shaft slot and the distributor gear and cam gear will mesh. If the oil pump shaft doesn't match it won't let it go all the way down onto the intake. You can use a long straight screwdriver and a flashlight to turn the shaft. It needs to be located somewhere around the 3:00 to 9:00 position. The easiest way I've found to to get it right is find where it will go all the way down, even if it isn't lined up with #1. Just hold the distributor body in the correct direction and turn the rotor until it falls in place. Then pull it out just far enough to be able to clear the cam gear. Rotate the rotor one tooth at a time and drop it back down. This will turn the oil pump shaft as it goes down. Keep doing this until it lines up with the #1 tower. This is real easy to do and saves a lot of headache guessing at the oil pump shaft location All you after here is to move it one gear tooth at a time until the rotor lines with #1 tower.
As for what position the distributor should be in. It needs to be installed as close to the original position as it was before removal. Some people will tell you it doesn't matter where the distributor cap location is. Well really it doesn't. What matters is if your plug wires reach and if the vacuum canister is able to clear when you want to advance or retard the timing. In all reality, you could use any tower on the cap as #1 as long as everything else hooks up. Take a look at the firing order picture below for a general position the distributor cap should be. Follow the above instructions for the rest of the install. As in the above article, after the engine is running don't forget to check the timing and adjust if needed.
 
Thanks Longhorn :)


I love these forums!
 
I got the AMC 304 purring like a kitten!

My best bud came over today and he, my wife and I were all turning wrenches on my baby.


My Jeep had sat neglected in my garage for over six years. The coolant had corroded a hole right through the aluminum timing chain cover. It also ate up the bearings in the water pump. So we replaced the cover, water pump, oil pump, fuel pump, put all new hoses and belts, pulled the carb and cleaned it throughly and blew it out with air, replaced the fuel filter and some of the fuel lines, cleaned up the distributor and replaced the cap and rotor, new oil filter and 5 qts of 10/30w oil, put a can of Berryman's fuel system/carb cleaner in the tank and filled it with premium and put a fresh battery in her. I was concerned about firing her up not knowing what might go wrong after six years. A little Berrymans carb cleaner sprayed into the carb and cranked her over for the first time. A SPARK! She fired up! A few more cranks and a misting of carb cleaner into the carb and the fuel pump primed up. The bowls filled and she was purring like a kitten. I was waiting for the timing to be :dung: but we nailed it when we installed the distributor. A check with a timing light showed the timing at 10 degrees advanced. Right where it should be with the Jacobs ignition! I guess paying attention to the details and the old measure twice cut once rule paid off!

A check of the idle speed after she was up to temp showed her idling at 875-900 rpm. Perfect. Aired up the tires and pulled her onto the street for the first drive in over six years.

I can't tell you all how good it feels to have nailed it on the first try and to have my Jeep purring like a kitten again. I'm gonna run this engine for the next year while I build my 360 up. The old AMC 304 has plenty of grunt for now :)

Thanks for the advice guys, especially on installing the distributor. It was priceless!

I washed her and cleaned her up. Here are some pictures of my baby (even theough my wife gets to drive it! :laughing:

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interior... I had the tub sprayed with LineX bed liner. One of the best things I ever did on the 5.

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I still have some odds and ends to fix. I need to have the winsheild replaced, hook up the temp, fuel and oil pressure gauges and get them running properly. Also need to adjust the idle mixture on the carb and check the electric chocke. The motor is surging slightly when idling and is slow to come of the rev's. I think I may need to adjust the dashpot. Otherwise she is running strong and smooth. Fix the driver's side seat adjuster and and the clutch free play and she'll be top notch.
 
Nice work on getting it running, it's always a good feeling.
Curious, why the 360?
Why not the 390 or 401?
 
Muy buenas tio Jeep!:drool:
 
BrockGrimes said:
Nice work on getting it running, it's always a good feeling.
Curious, why the 360?
Why not the 390 or 401?
Click to expand...


Well mostly because it was easy to find a good long block for a good price. I also figure after my build on the 360 I'll have a motor pushing 325-350hp which I feel is probably already overkill in a CJ5 . In all reality a rebuild on the AMC 304 to get 250hp out of it would have been plenty but the 360 was so cheap considering I needed a good timing cover ($250 new) and the 360 came with it for $350.

Thanks for the Kudo's. :)
 
LongHorn said:
Muy buenas tio Jeep!:drool:
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Why thank you sir :)



But my wife was confused by your post. She is hispanic and she said your statement read "Very good Uncle Jeep" :wtf: :p


Did you mean "Muy bonito Jeep"? :D
 
Great thread. So when are you going on your road trip to bring me the AMC 304 :D?
 
Right on about the carb size and plus those shorty headers are going to strngle your exhaust. Thru fenders is the way to go with nice long legs. look at the Summit headers; the price is good and they'll let the engine breathe:)
 
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