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What have I got myself into?! '86 CJ-7

What have I got myself into?! '86 CJ-7

99jpxj

Jeeper
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Location
N. GA
Vehicle(s)
1986 CJ-7 Laredo
w/ 258, auto, D300, D30, AMC20
I recently picked up an '86 CJ7 Laredo in trade for some work, upon getting it up on the trailer and back home I have found it in in much worse shape than I remembered it to be from a few years prior. I'm honestly still not sure what to do with the thing, and while I've always wanted a CJ, I'm not sure this is it. One part of me hates to see it rot and would love to get it back in action, but the other part of me says I don't need another project that I can't afford.

I guess this post is to get some feedback from other owners and get a rough idea on what I am looking at in terms of time and money to get it back to a reliable driver.

Currently it does not run, not getting any fuel to the motor. It did run 2 years ago, but idled very high. The body looks great from 10 feet, but is rusted badly underneath. Whoever did the bodywork on it did a terrible job, new floor pans were glued over the rotten originals so now everything is rotting again. Rust bubbles all around the exterior and most of the body mounts are falling apart. I honestly feel the body would be scrap (as much as I hate to say it) but I also hate rust with a passion. There are no seats or interior other than the dash, no exterior lights or trim parts, the wiring is a mess and all the rubber weather seals are falling apart or missing entirely. There are a few spots in the frame that are rusted through although most of it seems pretty solid. Everything is leaking, Transmission , tcase, axle pinion seals, etc.

My original budget I had been thinking of was around $1500 to do a wire harness and get it running and mechanically safe/sound, but that was before I saw it and knew what all was missing. Obviously I would be doing this all myself, as there is no way I can afford a resto shop bill. While I have never taken on a project like this, I can weld, fabricate, and have decent knowledge of automotive electrical. Where I fall short is never having messed with a carbureted vehicle, bodywork or restoration specific practices. I'm an offroader, mainly with a built Jeep XJ and now building a tube chassis rock buggy. If I don't know something I have no issue learning, but I'm thinking this may be more than I bargained for.

So for those who have been here, what am I up for, and what would you do?

A few pics from when I got it home. I can get some better ones tomorrow if it doesn't rain.
IMAG0802_zpsc7d5a5dd.webp

IMAG0805_zps49cff6b3.webp

IMAG0801_zps4726d246.webp
 
Well yes it wont be cheap or ever pay cash dividends so it needs to be a passion and something inside you says let's do it.
On the good side it should have the 44 rear axle.
Your budjet is not realistic unless your just trying to get it running, could easily be x10.
 
sounds like you had trash in the carb probably needs a rebuild, you might wanna flush the tank out and check for rust it looks good from 10 feet for sure but you will have to work hard to stay at $1500 to get it running. a new wire harness costs $500 :eek:
 
jeep looks good but from the things you described I don't think 1500 will get you even close to having a cream puff...just come dump it off in my yard in south Georgia
 
You already have a built XJ, and your presently building a buggy. I gather from your post your not too interested in working on this CJ or have the time to do so. I say sell it, and let it go to someone that will get it up and running.
 
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Congrats on finally getting an actual Jeep. There aren't many left so it's hard to let it go. I like the way Sasquach put it. Your heart has to be in it. Being a welder is a plus, although it's thin metal so it will be different than your probably used to. Any body is fixable with the right amount of time and effort put into it. I just spent a year repairing a badly rusted tub and I'm no expert. So it is doable.
How is the drivetrain. Not all 86's had the Dana 44 rear but the alternative isn't bad either with a $300 fix. The gas issue is probably just a bad fuel pump from sitting. That'd be my first replacement, then rebuild the carb or have it rebuilt. It's probably all varnished up from sitting as well. Put on a new filter before pumping any new gas thru it.

Overall it sounds like it's not a quick project and $1500 won't go too far. So if that's a drop dead number, you might want to pass it on to someone who will bring it back to life. I hate to see Jeeps just bandaged up and passed on, which sounds like what happened before it got to you.
 
My body was in a similar state and it sounds like I also started with fewer problems...and I'm $3k without the tub on the frame, and I've been stingy.

All things considered my time is worth more than the money so I agree with the previous folks - heart has to be in it.
 
Thanks for the responses. I am definitely torn on what to do. Like I said I've always wanted a CJ, and hate to see it rot, but from a quick search of ebay and parts sites, I'd probably be at my original budget just to get all the parts to make it complete, the little stuff adds up quick. Anything I put into the CJ comes out of getting the buggy finished.

My original plan was wiring harness 500-700, 350 for a carb, 300-350 to do gaskets/seals, balljoints, TRE's, brakes, bushings, fluids, service hubs, then 250 for painting the frame/underside and lining the interior and misc details. Then down the road throw a set of better used tires on it, deal with removing all the emissions stuff, and do the ignition upgrade I see mentioned.

I wasn't looking to keep it factory stock, as it really wouldn't be a good candidate even if it wasn't so rotted with how it's been hacked on over the years. I'd just like a fair weather cruiser/mall crawler with a bit of updated reliability as needed.

Now between getting it "complete", dealing with further mechanical issues, replacing the tub (new steel or YJ tub swap?) patching the frame and anything else that pops up, I just don't know.
 
If your single that will help! (hey, theres always a positive side to everything!) :)
 
Well I didn't have much time to work on it today but I did get it drug into the barn for temporary shelter. I started pulling the fuel filler/vent lines to look into dropping the tank but they were pretty well stuck in place and I was worried about damaging the plastic tank. Sprayed a little penetrating oil on them and the mounting bolts and will let them sit till the weekend. I did get the shift linkage freed up so now I can atleast roll it around somewhat.

I did get some pics of what I'm working with though, and they aren't pretty (IMO). Sorry for the low quality pics, it's pretty dark in the barn and my phone camera combined with drop cord lighting didn't produce the best results.

IMAG0841_zpsda669bd9.webp

IMAG0843_zps0a3e4aac.webp

IMAG0842_zpsee1c7729.webp

IMAG0846_zps25203d4a.webp

IMAG0847_zps5ae9f337.webp

Then comes the ugly parts:

Passenger floorboard
IMAG0852_zps3fbbf780.webp

Passenger body mount in front of rear tire
IMAG0851_zps132cdee3.webp

Passenger rear mount and the worst part of the frame
IMAG0850_zps1d82d662.webp

Drivers floorboard
IMAG0856_zpsdbd624a0.webp

Driver mount in front of rear tire
IMAG0854_zps1e6f5b80.webp

IMAG0860_zpsfff58cf2.webp

Driver rear mount
IMAG0858_zpsdc44f58e.webp


So what's the consensus on this tub, is it done for? Most of the rust seems to be in "complicated" areas vs. panels, which makes me think getting replacement metal would be much more difficult.

Here's the options I have come up with so far:
1. Replace parts of current tub to make usable and plan for full tub replacement in future
2. Find a clean YJ tub, maybe even in black if I am lucky, do what is needed to make it work, and run it- $500?
3. Omix steel tub, do what is necessary to make it work + paint/bodywork
4. Overland steel tub, drop it on + paint/bodywork
5. Ditch it, hope to recover $$

I'm thinking #2 would be workable but finding a clean tub maybe difficult.

Thoughts?
 
Well you did ask, I would run from that thing before spending any hard earned money and time on it.
 
There are still people that have rustfree CJ tubs. Up here in Michigan I know a gentleman that has two 100% rust free tubs. He was asking $500.00 each. You still can find a rustfree complete cj if you take your time and look. You will spend that much to repair the one you have by looking at the pictures.
 
someone is probably going to smack me but have you considered paying it out? I mean hear me out. You said you got it traded to you for work you did, not sure what the value of that work was but you have a alot of parts there that would sell and if betthat you would make more than what you have into it. it clearly needs a new frame and tub which can get pricey fast even if you find used ones in craigslist. Not to mention you need an interior and no telling what else as far as little things to get it going. You couldprobably find a CJ7 near you for under 6 k easy that is drivable and in almost rust free condition. there is white one listed for sale on the website infact that is a Damn good deal.

I know I'd be interested in some of the parts I see on the jeep so maybe I am greedy for my project but Ijust think for the cost of replacing both the frame and body you might be better off just buying a CJ7 with that money and saving the time it would take.
 
:)Lots of Rust........Lots of time to repair!
Not sure your going to find a used tub in your area that would be much better.............salt and snow.........don't even look in those areas.
What's the rest of the body look like? I can't believe that there is not more in other area's and that frame you better keep looking cause it spreads all over..............#5 get rid of it unless you need a major project!

:D:D:D:D
 
I bought a 80 Laredo in good shape,but with a 283 chevy motor.So I found a 82 lardo rusty like yours and saved alot of money using it for parts and learnd alot taking it apart.
 
To all those who have responded, I'm still not sure what exactly I'm going to do yet. I've considered parting it, but honestly don't know that I would get what I need out of it, plus the fact of having to work for money I've already worked for once. The YJ tub route sounded good in theory but my searching hasn't turned up anything workable yet.

I did however get it running this morning. Got the tank dropped, but have yet to do anything other than draining it, since I don't have a wrench large enough to loosen the sending unit cap. It does sound like there is some trash rattling around inside for sure though. Beyond that I pulled off all the individual fuel lines above and below the fuel pump and blew them out as well as dropped in a new filter for good measure. Hooked up an inline fuel bulb, primed the system from a gas can and it fired right off. It starts out sounding good but then begins to slowly idle up after a minute. Oil pressure was reading just over 60 at first startup but the tach doesn't seem to work so I can't tell for sure what its running at.

The vacuum system is all messed up which I'm figuring has to do with the idle issues. There are lines coming from the bottom of the intake that run down behind the block that turn into hard lines around the Transmission that are rotting and cut up. Being it is over 25yrs old it is emissions exempt here, so I'm wondering what all can be deleted while still retaining the factory heater operation?
 
Got the tank dropped, but have yet to do anything other than draining it, since I don't have a wrench large enough to loosen the sending unit cap.
Brass drift punch and hammer
 
To all those who have responded, I'm still not sure what exactly I'm going to do yet. I've considered parting it, but honestly don't know that I would get what I need out of it, plus the fact of having to work for money I've already worked for once. The YJ tub route sounded good in theory but my searching hasn't turned up anything workable yet.

I did however get it running this morning. Got the tank dropped, but have yet to do anything other than draining it, since I don't have a wrench large enough to loosen the sending unit cap. It does sound like there is some trash rattling around inside for sure though. Beyond that I pulled off all the individual fuel lines above and below the fuel pump and blew them out as well as dropped in a new filter for good measure. Hooked up an inline fuel bulb, primed the system from a gas can and it fired right off. It starts out sounding good but then begins to slowly idle up after a minute. Oil pressure was reading just over 60 at first startup but the tach doesn't seem to work so I can't tell for sure what its running at.

The vacuum system is all messed up which I'm figuring has to do with the idle issues. There are lines coming from the bottom of the intake that run down behind the block that turn into hard lines around the Transmission that are rotting and cut up. Being it is over 25yrs old it is emissions exempt here, so I'm wondering what all can be deleted while still retaining the factory heater operation?

If you decide to fix it up it will be a cool project and we all will be happy to watch the progrss and help you where we can. IF you decide to part it I'd like first dibs on the hood and the rear axle if its not the AMC20 .:D
What ever you decide, very cool jeep!
 
I have to say it was kinda sad to see my 82 all tore apart,Its funner to say I have 2 jeeps then say one jeep and a pile of junk.Good luck if ya fix it,its only time and money,right.
 
I feel your pain. This is my first post and joined after reading some really good ideas on rust and CJ7 's. I just purchased an '85 CJ7 and its going to be a process. Am stripping floor and going after rust. I read that you need to get under it and pressure wash it real well to expose the areas to work on. Do you guys have specials jacks or blocks or….

I am not a mechanic, just a good horse trainer. So I am following all threads related to my issues and hoping to not screw it up.

Will post pics of floor rust and wondering about the roll bar attachment to…is it called the wheel well when looking at it from inside?
 

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