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Im rebuilding my 79 CJ7AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , and looking at many manufactures and not sure which is the better brands. Im all the way deep into this build so I want to do it the right way . Thanks for the help
'79 Cj5, 258 with Howell Fuel injection kit, T18 with dana 20 Tcase, dana 30 front with Detroit locker, AMC 20 rear with LSD and one piece shafts, Warn 8k winch, 1" body lift, 2" suspension lift, 33 tires
Im rebuilding my 79 CJ7AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , and looking at many manufactures and not sure which is the better brands. Im all the way deep into this build so I want to do it the right way . Thanks for the help
I rebuilt my 74 AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and I needed some Machine work done. The engine shop I took it to (race shop) had kits available. It came with everything. I don't remember the bearing brands (I think they were Timkin) and it was cheaper to get the kit for me then piece everything together. I know felpro gaskets are the better end stuff and I try to use them when using gaskets. (Side note: they make an oil pan gasket that is a one piece rubber and it seemed much more durable then the original cork gaskets) im sorry I'm not much help and best of luck with the build!
Clevite and Sealed power are good choices for bearings. I would try to get engine bearing set if possible, usually comes with crank, rod and cam bearings. You just have choose the size of the rods and mains either std or under. Depending on if you had the crank turned or not.
The lifters I would buy are the ones recommended by the manufacturer of the cam.
I've rebuilt a few engines, and I'm currently rebuilding a 351w for my CJ5 . I recommend calling a machine shop and see what they recommend based on what you have. If you are planning on using your old crank, you may want to have them inspect it for you...you might find that they'll need to do some work on the journals, and from there, they'll recommend bearings based on your desires.
Since you say you're already deep into the project, I'm assuming the block has already been cleaned and prepped?
I tend to go overboard with my projects, so I had my local shop clean, bore, and paint my block...inspect crank, hone journals...also had them balance the whole rotating assembly...I'm a big fan of internal balancing so I'm 100% certain I'm going to get smooth operation and internals will last longer. That last part can double your cost, but in the end, I think it's worth it. A good machine shop won't cheap out on bearings, because they're typically first to fail.
Regardless of what brand you get, be sure to inspect both sides of all of your bearings before you install. If there are any nicks or scratches on the surface, don't install. I've gone though a few boxes of bearings before getting a full set with no blemishes. A good machine shop will take the bad ones back, too. Don't feel like you have to eat that money to get a set of unblemished bearings.
There is a superb set of engine rebuilding videos by Pete's Garage. Below is the link on crankshafts and bearings. This dude is a wealth of knowledge and he has other great sets of videos from coating/plating, fabrication, to engine rebuilding.
I go through his videos before every engine I work on so I don't miss anything.
'79 Cj5, 258 with Howell Fuel injection kit, T18 with dana 20 Tcase, dana 30 front with Detroit locker, AMC 20 rear with LSD and one piece shafts, Warn 8k winch, 1" body lift, 2" suspension lift, 33 tires
I've rebuilt a few engines, and I'm currently rebuilding a 351w for my CJ5 . I recommend calling a machine shop and see what they recommend based on what you have. If you are planning on using your old crank, you may want to have them inspect it for you...you might find that they'll need to do some work on the journals, and from there, they'll recommend bearings based on your desires.
Since you say you're already deep into the project, I'm assuming the block has already been cleaned and prepped?
I tend to go overboard with my projects, so I had my local shop clean, bore, and paint my block...inspect crank, hone journals...also had them balance the whole rotating assembly...I'm a big fan of internal balancing so I'm 100% certain I'm going to get smooth operation and internals will last longer. That last part can double your cost, but in the end, I think it's worth it. A good machine shop won't cheap out on bearings, because they're typically first to fail.
Regardless of what brand you get, be sure to inspect both sides of all of your bearings before you install. If there are any nicks or scratches on the surface, don't install. I've gone though a few boxes of bearings before getting a full set with no blemishes. A good machine shop will take the bad ones back, too. Don't feel like you have to eat that money to get a set of unblemished bearings.
There is a superb set of engine rebuilding videos by Pete's Garage. Below is the link on crankshafts and bearings. This dude is a wealth of knowledge and he has other great sets of videos from coating/plating, fabrication, to engine rebuilding.
I go through his videos before every engine I work on so I don't miss anything.
Nailed it on the head. Very wise words of wisdom!! If you're going to spend the time and money to tear an engine down, do it right like he said and have everything balanced, magna-fluxed, and cleaned professionally.
1983 CJ7, hard top & doors.
3 in BDS suspension lift.
Stock 4.2 I6
Trans: T4, 4 spd
Xfer: Dana 300
Front Dif: Stock Dana (I believe)
Rear Dif: Stock AMC
Have to agree with the Clevite 77 bearings. I’ve build many high hp race engines. I always use Clevite bearings, molly rings and Mellings oil pumps. Hard to beat the old stand-by’s.
