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what rearends, if any,are a direct bolt in for a 84 CJ7 ? looking to possibly change out the AMC20 thats in it now and hoping to keep away from alot of fabricating if possible. thanks.
83 CJ7 350 tbi, TH350, D300 twin sticked & clocked, narrowed Chief D44 Eaton Elocker & Moser shafts, Explorer 8.8 Detroit locker, 410's, RE 4.5" spring lift 1" body lift, 35" Claws, cage tied to frame, Corbeau baja seats, HD tie rod and draglink, u-bolts flipped, custom skid plate and sliders, Warn 9.5ti winch with Amsteel synthetic line
Unless your 20 is trashed, all it takes is 1-piece axles, a couple pieces of iron for braces or gussets and about $50 worth of welding (if you can't do it yourself) and your 20 will last as long as any.
This is your only bolt in option and your gonna end up with crappy 2.72 or 3.31 gears. Both those gear sets use a small carrier so even if you would pay to re gear you'll need a carrier as well. Depending where your at the Cj Dana 44 usually goes for around $400-$600 in stock form. Its not going to be a cheap replacement in any way.
Im with the other guys here , your best bet in this situation is upgrade your AMC20 . This site doesnt seem to hate the AMC20 like alot of other do, and theres good reason for that. The biggest flaw of the AMC20 is the 2 piece axle. A good set of 1 piece axles are around $200 and fix that quick. If your wheeling moderate trails often the next weak point is the thinner pressed in axle tubes. You can have them "stitch" welded to the center section for an 1 hrs worth of labor maybe 2 if we stretch it.
If your really rock crawling (twisting , turning , articulating) and get bound up in rocks you can truss the AMC20 as well. You can do these thigs to your AMC20 as money allows and still come out cheaper than the Dana 44 in my opinion.
73 CJ5 4.0 head on a 258, HEI, Holley Projection w/ 4.56, Detroit lockers Narrowed D44 front and full float D44 rear T14 w/ D20 4 wheel discs, 38.5 Boggers