Why I shouldn't mess with electrics...

[JeepCJ5]

Just wanted to thank Peanut for the link to the color wiring diagram. I got mine Friday - and it is very nice!

 

[MayberryF3]

So the only thing I found when checking the tail lights was a wire in the driver side tail light that had a piece of sheathing had come off. I covered that. I also removed the dome light that had been PO added. And I tried to take some more pics.

 

[MayberryF3]

Sorry I should have added.

1. Fuse box
2. Directly across from fuse box on backside of dash.
3-4. Random engine compartment wiring that looks jacked up

 

[MayberryF3]

I don't know how to edit a post. But one other thing I forgot to add, is that I got the brake lights working again.

Aside from the sheathing that came off the wire inside the drivers side tail light, I checked for any lose grounds and couldn't find any. I also checked the connection running above the steering column, I simply pressed on it to make sure it was tight. I removed the PO added dome light, which did have a weird ground to the tub in the rear near the driver side tail light. I replaced the fuse (again) and the brake lights work.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

GND connections can be 'tight' but because of corrosion etc. there's reduced conductivity. Best to clean all GND connections you run across and use battery terminal spray on them after they are cleaned up.
When I say 'clean'. I mean you remove the connection, and clean the contact points to shinny metal. and reinstall with a external 'star' washer(between the terminal and mounting point)that bites into the terminal and sheet metal.
Sheet metal screws are a pour choice to attach with IMO.
LG

 

[Peanut Butter]

with LG. Grounds on a Jeep are some of the most trouble some points in wiring. Your doing good with straightening everything out. Take you time and work on one circuit at a time. When it come to lights, make sure the bulb connection is not rusty too, and the spring is putting the right amount of tension on the bulb base. If you keep blowing fuses, then you have a short somewhere. This can be a nightmare when you have a wiring harness that was totally messed up by the PO. For all the rear lights, if you keep having problems, you may want to run a new harness for them. There's not much to it. Also check inside those wire looms when redoing a circuit. I found very poor connections and splices on mine.

When you splice two wires together the best way is to twist them together and solder them. The put a piece of marine grade heat shrink over the connection. Marine grade has a silicon lining that helps seal moisture out. You can get it at Harbor Freight. Also best to use a heat gun to shrink with, HF at ~$12.00. There are lots of different kinds of wire too. Pure copper wire is the best. Anything with aluminum in it is not only a little worse at conduction, but makes it harder to solder. Make sure you use the correct gauge of wire when replacing parts of your harness.

Glad you got the color wiring diagram, that should be a big help.

 

[MayberryF3]

Just a quick update cause I don't want to whammy myself, still no blower motor, but good other than that. Driven another 4-500 miles. Found multiple leaks from the windshield and cowl during the last few days of rain. But I'm still plugging along.

 

[Peanut Butter]

Glad to hear you are winning the battle. Leaks from those areas are not uncommon. There is a rubber seal between the bottom of the windshield and the cowl. These wear out and then leak. Usually an easy replace and the part cost like $35.00