Build Thread 1956 CJ5 - About to start digging into hit

[samalex]

Back story, my dad bought this 1956 Jeep CJ5 in high school back in the late 60's, he the second owner, and he drove it through college. During the late 70's and early 80's he let my uncle borrow it who just had it at a deer lease, and mid 80's we moved out to the country, and my dad brought it back home. Me and my younger brother learned to drive on this Jeep, and we'd drive it just round the back roads and through the fields in late 80's and early 90's. But by late 90's I was in college and my brother in high school, so the Jeep got parked in a field. My dad would drive it around just to mow under it, but it basically has sat for better part of 25 years. It used to be under a tarp, but that tarp rotted away years ago.

So now my 15 year old son and I would like to get it going again, and I honestly would like to use it as a daily driver just around town - though I understand this would be WAY down the road. It's all original as far as I know with the original F134 Hurricane Hurricane engine. My dad said he's rebuilt the carbonator twice from what he remembers, but outside of that it's mostly as it was 30 years ago. Last time plates were registered was 1987.

Engine doesn't seem to be ceased up, I can turn the fan with little issue, but I'm unsure of the state on everything else. For now, my goal is to keep it as original as possible, keeping the 6v generator, drum brakes, etc -- mostly because I'm no mechanic and this is all totally new to me. What I know is from reading some manuals and watching HOURS of YT videos watching others go through these steps.

I'll post some things here as I go, but here's my basic plan -- though I'd LOVE feedback. I'm breaking it up into a few phases - Engine, Cooling and Fuel, Transmission , Brakes, Electrical, Suspension, Cabin, then Body, maybe not exactly in that order.

First is to just ensure the engine is sound... next time I'm out at my dads I'll spray some Kroil or similar into the cylinders just to help it soak in and I'll drain the engine oil and hope there's no water or rust in it. If so may need to pull the oil pan and clean it. After this fill it back up try to turn it over and do a compression test. Can someone tell me what PSI I should look for? I'm thinking over 100, but I'm not sure. Or is it okay to do a compression test with any oil in it? I've read it's not good to circulate the sludgy oil back through it.

If this is good, then rebuilding carburetor and distributor, the repair kits together are about $90. If compression is poor may need to pull the head and order a head gasket which is about $70 in of itself. Trying not to drop too much into it until I can ensure the engine and Transmission are sound. But if this gets the engine going then focusing on getting the gas tank in good shape and rebuild or replace the fuel pump. I don't think it has a fuel filter, so may add this too. And then radiator and water pump working.

I don't want to assume any of this will function after sitting so long, but maybe it will just to get it running. For now first goal is to just to get the engine running on its own enough to move it and test the Transmission . I'll drain the Transmission fluid as well and hope for no water or rust, but if this is clear is there any other way to test Transmission other than driving it?

My hope is to get through this with no big gotchas -- if so then just start checking things off the list. I have a lengthy Google Sheet going with all the stuff to tackle, but of course each is hinged on the bigger things working.

As I said I'm no mechanic, so I'll be doing this all through research and questions - so thanks in advance for any help you all are able to give.

 

[CJ]

Looks like a great project. We are here to help and back you up all the way to the end!

 

[Jeep Soup]

Looks like a GREAT "As Found"
Project. The body looks usable from the pictures you posted.

*Yes Drain the oil, and filter canister.
*Yes spray Penetrate into the cylinders.
*And for the short duration of a Compression Test, you don't need to refill the oil at this time.
*Get some baseline numbers on compression. If nothing is really bad, with a engine that has sat a long time, those numbers will get better as everything reseats once you get it running.
*Then refill with Fresh Oil, and replace the Oil Filter. (Note, prefill the Oil Filter Casing to presoak Dry Filter, do Filter first as the Oil will drain down some into the crank case so you don't over fill)
*For the Distributor, just do Points, Condenser, Rotor, and Cap, Spark Plugs, for a initial start. Maybe a set of Wires too.
It is a Rarity to need to do Shaft Bushings, or Mechanical Advance work other than Lubrication.
*Check, there might be a "Oiler" down on the Side of the Distributor. Flip up the tiny cover add a Little, and I mean Little oil here. No need in oiling up the entire inside including the points.

Good Luck with your New Family Member.....a 1956 JEEP.

 

[samalex]

Need some guidance ---

Saturday I pulled the pugs and sprayed some BP Blaster Penetrating Oil in each cylinder. I tried to turn the engine with the fan, but the crankshaft pulley wheel wouldn't turn, fan just slightly turns and just slides on the belt which does nothing. From what I'm reading the crankshaft nut is 1" 3/8 which is way bigger than anything I have. I went to three hardware stores, and though I found a socket to fit, the 3/4" drive rachets were $75 or more -- so I'm trying to find one I can borrow since not sure I'd use it for anything other than just trying to turn the engine. Here's a photo of it below.

As far as I can tell the engine is in neutral, but is there any other situation that would cause the engine to not turn over? Like something in the Transmission or Transfer Case ? As best as I can tell it's in neutral, the middle gear shifter is down and right one is up which I thought opened it up - but maybe I'm wrong. Just trying to see if there's any situation that could stop the engine from turning other than it just being stubborn. But until I can turn the engine not much else I can do.

Went back out yesterday (Sunday) and put another dose of penetrating oil into the cylinders so maybe if the engine is just stuck this'll help.

So, I guess my next step is finding or buying a 1" 3/8 socket to try and turn it unless you all have other advise. I did find this one - (Link)-> Whoops, we couldn't find that. -< - which I may order, it's got a 1/2-inch drive which I have a rachet do have.

Thanks for any advice ...

 

[Jeep Soup]

Just an Idea. Do you have a "Strap Wrench" or a "Large Oil Filter Band" Wrench?
Remove the Fan Belt, slip the Strap/Band wrench over the Engine Pulley. Now see if it Turns Over.
Also have one of your Junior Assistants step the Clutch Pedal Down if you still think the Transmission is Engaged.