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1979 AMC 304 Rough idle.

1979 AMC 304 Rough idle.
Fingers crossed! :notworthy:

LG
 
jafo said:
I'll also look into a new coil. What coil would you recommend?
Click to expand...

I got the MSD blaster coil from Autozone it's a direct replacement and has what you need to get away from that horseshoe fitting.
 
I have a pic of it in my gallery but I can't see anything in the galleries right now because of the state of this site is in or I would have posted it. If you can see the pics in it you will how I did mine. Hope this helps.
 
Your close, the stock intake weighs 65lbs.
 
The timing chain is easy enough to check.
Hand turn the crank to TDC.
Have someone watch the rotor while you slowly turn the crank counterclockwise.
Stop turning when the rotor moves.
If you find 20 degrees or more of slack it's time for replacement.
 
Got a question. I found the condenser wire on the bottom of the condenser is broke off. Being this is not a points system, is the condenser required? I'm puting an MSD blaster coil on now and found the broken wire. Could this be some of the problem?
 
Is this the outside condenser? If so, it's for RFI and has nut'n to do with run'n of the dizzy.

LG
 
What your referring to is a .5 capacitor. It's an option to reduce alternator and ignition noise/whine to the radio.

As LG mentioned has nothing to do with how the engine runs.
 
Ok, new coil is a new coil. Money well spent but not the answer. I'm letting it cool off to put the new fuel pump in. Already has new fuel filter.

So what I've tried. New intake gaskets, carb rebuild, new distributor, new ignition control box, new coil, new wires and plugs, new vacuum hoses, timing set at 10 BTDC. Vacuum did not improve with new gaskets. Still at around 18 inch Hg. I did switch vacuum supply ports for the distributor. I found that the port it was coming from is based off temp. So I don't think it was getting vacuum to advance the timing. It did help. But we're back to just third gear misfire and cutting out now. 1st and 2nd seem ok now. This is just crazy. I keep going back and forth.

So, I'm keeping the 10 advance timing. I'll install the fuel pump. So it shouldn't be starving of fuel.

I have to say, the internal engine was very clean. Zero build up. So I'm kind of doubting the timing chain, but probably should check just to eliminate.

Last thing would be looking at the carb again. Maybe just do a reman carb? I have a motorcraft 2100.
 
You sir are a very busy man. Almost everyday you've done something major, I'm impressed. I bet when you find the problem it will be something small, it usually is. Yeah, don't waste your time fiddling with timing. That is more of a fine tuning thing. You need to find out what's causing your engine to sputter and stall.
 
Hedg, I'm about to roll this thing out to the field for target practice. I've almost reach a point where I'm throwing in the towel.

Just put the fuel pump on. Started right up idled fine. No leaks. It won't make it down the street. I did find out that the idiot that put the previous fuel pump in stripped the friggin threads in the back bolt hole. It was finger tight when I took it out with metal all over it. I was and am still pissed. I found a longer bolt and found good threads. I was wondering where the oil leak was coming from. I thought it was oil pan gaskets until I found the loose bolt on the fuel pump.

Now I'm totally freakin lost as to what to look at next. Not a clue right now. The only thing I can think of is carburetor. I don't think the EGR would cause the cut out problem but it might cause a loss in vacuum. It looks older than dirt. The idle mix screws boggles my mind too. They are back out at 3 1/2 turns. Screw them in at 2 turns and the engine won't run.
 
Hang in there. :rock:
We ALL have been at the place you're at now(some of us-several times:D).:notworthy:
With the engine running fine at cold startup, and with choke that says rich fuel mix. When it warms up it dies-'rite'? :confused: When warmed up-the choke is off and your run'n overly lean from a vacuum leak, from somedangplace. Your idle mix setting confirms my opinion here.
Sure wish you were closer-I would like to hands on help you.
FWIW: My wife is from Missouri. Last name of Schofield.......
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Hang in there. :rock:
We ALL have been at the place you're at now(some of us-several times:D).:notworthy:
With the engine running fine at cold startup, and with choke that says rich fuel mix. When it warms up it dies-'rite'? :confused: When warmed up-the choke is off and your run'n overly lean from a vacuum leak, from somedangplace. Your idle mix setting confirms my opinion here.
Sure wish you were closer-I would like to hands on help you.
FWIW: My wife is from Missouri. Last name of Schofield.......
LG
Click to expand...

I have no idea where the vacuum leak would be. I've replaced evrything vacuum related. The only thing I can think of that would lose serious vacuum would be from the spacer. It has a large port that runs around the back to the pcv and directly to an elbow screwed into the top of the intake. The pcv rattles, so as far as I know, it's good. What if I plug the big port and see what that does.
 
Does it have a catalytic converter? They have been known to get plugged up when they get old.
 
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