1979 CJ5 Complete Build Help

[MoparPower]

I just bought a 1979 CJ5 . My dad owned it for years and only did a 4" body lift. I want to get rid of the body lift and redo damn near everything. Here are my ideas:

Front and rear axel swap with 2007 Rubicon Dana 44 's w/electronic lockers.
Spring over axel w/Wrangler springs.
MPI conversation.
Electronic Fan.

Well thats all I got on my mind right now other then the basic, paint, rust removal, seats, role cage, tires, ect.

I am a Dodge Truck guy, not a Jeep guy. I just sold a 2006 Dodge Power Wagon and decided to buy this jeep as a play toy. I know next to nothing about Jeeps. I am in Iraq right now in support of Operation New Dawn and won't get to my jeep until the spring. I want to be ready when I got there to do everything. I need all the advice, do's, don'ts, how to's, good parts, bad parts, and more. PLEASE HELP

 

[CJ]

What size tires? A soa will add 6" of lift. If you don,t need 6" of lift, don,t complicate things.

 

[MoparPower]

Im looking at putting 35's on it.

 

[JR74CJ5]

I just bought a 1979 CJ5 . My dad owned it for years and only did a 4" body lift. I want to get rid of the body lift and redo damn near everything.

Getting rid of that body lift will be an excellent choice. But that's really personal preference... A body lift like that wouldn't let me hit 70 MPH on the freeway...

Here are my ideas:

Front and rear axel swap with 2007 Rubicon Dana 44 's w/electronic lockers.

Haven't personally read too much about this "swap" Dana 44 's are good strong diffs. And electric selectable lockers are a great add

Spring over axel w/Wrangler springs.

If you are dead set on wanting spring over, here's a good site for some knowledge and parts / kits i think you'll like...
YJ Wrangler spring conversion kit for Jeep CJ, 1976 and newer

They have full SOA kits including OME lift or stock height wrangler spring kits.. Pricey, but from what I've ready, quality parts and kits...

MPI conversation.

Not much to offer on this subject either, I would recommend letting us al know the drive train components... I-6 I'm assuming? (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l )

Electronic Fan.

From what I've understood, the mechanical fans are superior. The electric fans can short in water, and do not pull / push as much air through as a good mechanical fan. Though I may be completley wrong with this... I thought i remembered reading into this on a thread somewhere, but can't find it so can not offer any evidence / back-up to this.

decided to buy this jeep as a play toy. I know next to nothing about Jeeps.

They are very fun! One thing to mention, everyone wants a jeep for different reasons. I want mine to drive on the freeway safely to the trails, perform excellent off road, and drive it back home. I do extreme trails too, not to say i stay on small bumpy trails, check out my trail and trips reports. You can do a lot in these jeeps very close to stock... I'm only running 33" tires, and no real spring lift (just small shackle) and my Uncle 31's with no lift either. I rub a little and can't clime a 4' sheer bolder as easy as a SOA with 35's, But I'll get the same place he will with a creative "line" a spotter.

That's just my 2c... If you are just going to trailer this rig up to the trails, and just make it for off road, you won't have to worry as much about on road safety / stability etc. Just remember with a Body lift, you're not changing the geometry of the drive train... Once you go spring over, like CJ said you are opening a large can of things to do along with it. center of gravity / roll over potential (slightly helped with the wider axles your planning, but still Small Wheel Base Jeep...) Steering geometry, drive-line lengths, and geometry, not to mention the axle swaps will create some new stuff to think about as well... No way I'm trying to talk you out of anything, but be prepared to do a lot of little things with such big mods is all.

I'm not the most knowledgeable member here by any means, but you wanted my opinions and thoughts, so I hope I've helped... CJ, BusaDave, Baja, elwood, cheapjeep, and a lot of others are the ones I'd give the most respect and credence to advice from... (if I didn't mention your name guys, it's not cause I don't respect ya, can only remember so many great members off top of my head )

And :ty: for your service bud! :rock:

~ JR

 

[Saddle Tramp]

The first thing I would do if planning a complete rebuild is to take the jeep to a good frame shop and have it checked/straightened as needed. After all those years odds are best it will need a tweak here and there. That way as you rebuild everything will be true. Just my 2 cents.

 

[MoparPower]

I think everyone for their input. Once again I will not deny I know nothing about Jeeps. I do know Jeeping..... I was known for taking my Power Wagon thru places that only jeeps could go. Need less to say I had to repaint it more then once.

More About The Jeep

I have not sean the jeep in a while, I have not drove it in 5 years. My dad sold it to my brother and like always the little brother needed money so I snuck in and got it for $3,500. Now my dad got it for doing some side work, then got the IL6 (AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ) for doing a 350 swap for a guy. I asked my brother what he thought was wrong with it and this is what I got back.

Has original factory plate in engine capartment which is rare.


What I(My Brother) put into it:

New front driveline (Dad broke it, then welded it)
master cylinder
alternator
battery
motor mounts
Transmission mount
back seat with grade 8 hardware and seat belts
moved halo bar to original position with grade 8 hardware and mounting plates
full tune up
straightened out rear diff cover and new gasket and oil
valve cover gasket
oil fill plug
vacuum lines various
Mounted exhaust to frame
front yoke seal
6 degree shims in front due to Dads jerry riggin


What it needs in my(Brother) opinion: (may need more)

Fine tuning with the carb
brake lines (rubber)
oil pan
rear main engine seal
Transmission leak fixed
Dads home made stainless gas tank leaks due to no baffles
new brakes all around
new tires
speedo is off
oil pressure is low
smokes white smoke (Dad said due to valve seats did not seal when head was redone)
New shocks
Has no lockers front or rear
hubs need replaced
electrical needs gone through due to dads jerry riggin
no fan shroud so gets a little warm
needs shims in rear due to shimmy in rear


That and all the pictures I have post are the only things I know about this jeep. To me it is drivable and playable. I am active duty military and I do not plan on doing anything until I get to my next duty station (I am thinking Fort Irwen California) in the fall. Until then I'm just going to drive it. But once I get to a spot that I will be for at least two years I plan on stripping it to nothing. I want to rebuild it right. From the ground up. Not going to about prices, because I plan on playing hard. Now I do not want to spend $20,000 like some I know.

I want to keep the IL6, it has enough Hp and Torque to play and drive.

I do want to be able to do 75 on the free way with out killing myself, and I want to be able to go on any trail that comes my way.

The reason I want to go with the SOA is because that is all the lift I will need. I know I will have replace all the break lines (Need to anyways because it has the stock rubber hoses), I also know the challenge with the steering. I want to move the front axes forward 2" and the rear 3", that will take me from a 83.5" wheel base to a 88.5" wheel base. Then with the Dana 44 I talk about will make my front track 61.5" and rear to 61". Thats a 10" increase on both. I am going to play with the fenders a bit and try to run 37" SSR on it. There is a lot more I want to do, but I really need to be looking at it to talk about it.

I'm not made of money, but plan on a little here and a little there. Trying to keep it at about $10,000. Give or take $5,000.

 

[Old Dog]

Here are my ideas:

Front and rear axel swap with 2007 Rubicon Dana 44 's w/electronic lockers.

The front axle won't work due to it being a drivers side drop, your cj has the diff on the passanger side.

 

[BusaDave9]

I also know the challenge with the steering. I want to move the front axes forward 2" and the rear 3", that will take me from a 83.5" wheel base to a 88.5" wheel base.

It's nice to extend the wheelbase for stability but with all the hassles of moving the front axle I would just leave it where it is. Instead I would move the rear axle back further. You can go back 6 inches before the curvature of the frame causes issues with wheel travel. (not that that will be an issue with SOA) IMHO stability is more important on hill climbs and that's where the extended rear axle will help.

 

[MoparPower]

Well I did not know about the front axel not working. Like I said, I have not looked at the jeep yet so all I know is the info I have put out. I guess the question is if I want to use the axel I would have to change the Transfer Case too. Witch is fine.

I like the idea of stretching the rear only. I'm just worried about the look. I am not trying to change body. I guess once I start looking at it things will start to come together.

 

[BusaDave9]

I guess the question is if I want to use the axel I would have to change the Transfer Case too. Witch is fine.

Yes, you would need to swap out the TCase. You could use one from a Wrangler. The front driveshaft and levers will be on the drivers side. You will have trouble mating the TCase to your tranny. An adapter from Advanced Adapters or Novak may help. Or you could swap in a wrangler tranny too. To do that you would need the Wrangler bellhousing. The Wrangler has a hydraulic clutch so you would need to put in a hydraulic clutch pedal.

EDIT: swapping the bellhousing will only work if you have a strait 6. I didn't notice what engine you have.

 

[MoparPower]

Well BusaDave9 you know your Jeeps. Once I get back from Iraq and I get started I think I will be asking a lot more questions.