Build Thread 1979 CJ7 Rapid restore - 1 Year build from tired and rusty to all go and some show..

[DconZ]

Like this? Having the tool is easy, working it is hard...

I bet you can pick up one for a song now. That is a 602, all manual but accurate scales added. For a few $ more you can get a 605 fully servoed

a slippery slope>> more machinery = bigger shop = larger electrical bills = smaller bank account = angry wife = now sleeping in larger shop

 

[CJ]

a slippery slope>> more machinery = bigger shop = larger electrical bills = smaller bank account = angry wife = now sleeping in larger shop

Best quote,

 

[DconZ]

Happy new year all!

Blue Monkey already rebuilt me a new head and its sitting in Sweet Grass Montana waiting for pickup. Its about a 2hr drive from my place and still worth the fuel to go get it vs UPS prices on this weight! Plus I have to convince Canadian customs this is a warranty head and I already paid duty on it!!!

Managed to get my front diff cover replaced with something that has a drain plug! I never understood why AMC did not include drain plugs in either front or rear covers.. This one I got from Summit, its a steel Spicer, came with a quality gasket and seems like decent quality. nice and thick..

 

[Belizean]

I agree. But if you don’t remove the cover you really never remove all and if there is a problem you maybe never catch it before being catastrophic. Just my 2 cents. I’ve never had any problem with my diffs.

 

[DconZ]

I agree. But if you don’t remove the cover you really never remove all and if there is a problem you maybe never catch it before being catastrophic. Just my 2 cents. I’ve never had any problem with my diffs.

A lot depends on your usage I would say. where I like having the drain is when frequenting water.. It makes fluid changes a whole lot faster just to pop the plug and make sure no water has made it in. I like the double top plugs also, slightly less mess when I filled it!

 

[Belizean]

Great point

 

[KRUPP]

That’s a good, stout cover.
I’ve been looking too for one with a drain.
A lot out there with skulls and stuff instead. WTF?

 

[DconZ]

That’s a good, stout cover.
I’ve been looking too for one with a drain.
A lot out there with skulls and stuff instead. WTF?

There seems to be a bit of junk out there. This one from spicer seems like one of the better values, I think it was just under $100US from Summit racing, they had a bunch in stock a few weeks ago. I looked at others alot more expensive but fail to see what you get for the $$.. aside from a skull emblem

 

[DconZ]

Took a drive down to Sweetgrass, MT first thing this morning and picked up the replacement head. It has been brutally cold, this morning's drive was through -40 (without the wind). I counted about a dozen semi trucks and at least a half dozen cars froze up on the side of the road over a 100mile stretch..


While the failure sucks, I am impressed with Blue Monkeys response. They never hassled me or tried to hide behind any excuses, getting rare these days!

 

[DconZ]

Here is a picture of the add-on oiler line that they added in the build. I don't know want to pretend to know if this is effective or not. Blue Monkey claims that the factory oil distribution is weak on CYL 7/8 and this is supposed to help with that design deficiency. I suspect there are a few of you that know a lot more about this than I do and could chime in it if anyone asks questions or wants to discuss

Still some cleanup left before I can re-assemble. I think I have everything I need.

painstakingly cleaned out all the head bolt holes, could eat off them now! Using 30W oil @ 100LBS, forgot to ask them if oem torque for the rockers, need to confirm what I am using on those, also need to refresh my memory on torque pattern.. Been a really long time since I did this! going on 30 years since I was inside an engine!



Its so shiny!!

 

[CJ]

Here is a picture of the add-on oiler line that they added in the build. I don't know want to pretend to know if this is effective or not. Blue Monkey claims that the factory oil distribution is weak on CYL 7/8 and this is supposed to help with that design deficiency. I suspect there are a few of you that know a lot more about this than I do and could chime in it if anyone asks questions or wants to discuss

Still some cleanup left before I can re-assemble. I think I have everything I need.

painstakingly cleaned out all the head bolt holes, could eat off them now! Using 30W oil @ 100LBS, forgot to ask them if oem torque for the rockers, need to confirm what I am using on those, also need to refresh my memory on torque pattern.. Been a really long time since I did this! going on 30 years since I was inside an engine!

View attachment 100332

Its so shiny!!
View attachment 100333
View attachment 100334

Very nice setup.
The oil line is a common mod for your engine. Not necessary for stock but highly recommended for modified...
Your rockers are poly-lok rollers. There is no torque spec.
If you have a hydraulic lifter cam you put each cylinder on top dead center and adjust to zero lash then one half to three quarters turn more for correct preload then lock the poly center screw.
If it's a solid lifter cam (highly unlikely) you have to set the valve to roller clearance via your cam specs and use feeler gauges for each cylinder at top dead center. On solid lift cams the intake and exhaust clearance is usually different.

 

[DconZ]

Your rockers are poly-lok rollers. There is no torque spec.
If you have a hydraulic lifter cam you put each cylinder on top dead center and adjust to zero lash then one half to three quarters turn more for correct preload then lock the poly center screw.

These heads do not have rocker studs installed and have no adjustment capability as-is, they are bolt down and go...

 

[Belizean]

Did they have to work both heads ? I forgot you had the V8.

 

[DconZ]

Did they have to work both heads ? I forgot you had the V8.

just the one - passenger side. at least only the battery & tray to move out of the way which is easier than the brake booster on the drivers side. You could do it without removing anything but it would be awkward I suspect getting at those back bolts squarely..

 

[CJ]

These heads do not have rocker studs installed and have no adjustment capability as-is, they are bolt down and go...

Wow, I have never seen that type of roller rocker. Do you have a link or part number? The 1.6 ratio EPWI roller rockers I found are all adjustable poly-lok type.

Edit: I went back and saw this post where you linked to the non adjustable rockers

Build Thread - 1979 CJ7 Rapid restore - 1 Year build from tired and rusty to all go and some show..

No magnafluxing was done.

jeep-cj.com

 

[DconZ]

Wow, I have never seen that type of roller rocker. Do you have a link? The EPWI roller rockers I found are all poly-lok type.

I had to go back out to the garage after your reply to make sure I wasn't losing my mind . There is single thin baseplate with a equally as thin individual shim on each side. There is no way to adjust these that I can see. I recall this kind of setup I used on a ford 351C 30 some years ago. Too much shim left valves open, too little meant late opens and rattling pushrods lol. I'll grab some good pictures and post them tomorrow.

 

[CJ]

Lol, I was editing my post when you replied. You referenced some non adjustable rockers here...

Build Thread - 1979 CJ7 Rapid restore - 1 Year build from tired and rusty to all go and some show..

No magnafluxing was done.

jeep-cj.com

 

[DconZ]

Lol, I was editing my post when you replied. You referenced some non adjustable rockers

I also forgot I linked to those! Yes same setup, the shims sit between the rectangular base plate and the rocker.

 

[DconZ]

It's looking like an engine again! Head and intake are back on and finished up some of the misc stuff. I really took my time, this was an all day event yesterday. I skipped pictures of the rocker install, hands were covered in oil!!

I used a sharpie and numbered my head bolts so I didn't loose my place. Also busted my torque wrench on the last head bolt!! Add 2 more skinned knuckles to the build!!

 

[DconZ]

Fired up the engine over the weekend and well @%$%#@ and.. leaking head gasket coming out the last water channel I suspect, no fluid crossover and its running nice but off she comes again.. luckily I bought an entire gasket set about a year ago so I have 2 more chances to get it right..

This was my first time using copper spray, maybe I was a little light on the coat?