• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Build Thread 1979 CJ7 Rapid restore - 1 Year build from tired and rusty to all go and some show..

Build Thread 1979 CJ7 Rapid restore - 1 Year build from tired and rusty to all go and some show..
I did try the 31" Trxus radials on for size.. 15"x10.5 on -44mm offset ProComp Rock Crawlers Steel rims


PXL_20240203_191702834.jpg

PXL_20240203_191707591.jpg
 
That’s a different tread design.
 
Fired up the engine over the weekend and well @%$%#@ and.. leaking head gasket :( coming out the last water channel I suspect, no fluid crossover and its running nice but off she comes again.. luckily I bought an entire gasket set about a year ago so I have 2 more chances to get it right..

This was my first time using copper spray, maybe I was a little light on the coat?

You using steel shim head gasket? I assume so since you mentioned copper spray, i personally like the felpro gaskets, On my Dodge motors some head bolts are open to the water jacket and will leak if you dont use sealer on the threads i cant remember if the AMC motors ate open


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You using steel shim head gasket? I assume so since you mentioned copper spray, i personally like the felpro gaskets, On my Dodge motors some head bolts are open to the water jacket and will leak if you dont use sealer on the threads i cant remember if the AMC motors ate open
None of the head bolts on AMC pass through water channels. I am using the felpro gasket with the steel shim which I was told by the builder to coat both sides of the shim, this is how is was assembled initially. The felpro's I have also state using a sealant is required on their steel side which mates with the steel shim
 
Pulled the intake. I'm now not 100% sure this is the head gasket leaking, it may have been the intake channel seeping out and running down the head line and settling in the lowest point with a little wicking past the corner. The intake gasket appeared a bit wet in that corner but hard to tell if it was just the toenail of coolant in the intake when I pulled it off, hard to get every drop sucked out of it.

I think I am going to re-install the intake and I ordered a coolant pressure testing kit. I would really hate to pull the head off and re-install and that not be the issue!!!

Anyone ever have a leak like this from the intake that seemed to snake its way down ever so nicely and look like a head gasket?? Where I assumed the head gasket was leaking the coolant is very still, I cannot see any visible bubbling or dripping which is another reason I am second guessing the head gasket..
 
The saga continues, hopeful that the back water channel was leaking from the intake, I removed and re-installed the intake and while it was leaking the head gasket was also. I picked up a relatively cheap coolant system pressure tester from Amazon which is far easier than a full re-assembly to run it! plus you are not dealing with hot exhaust pipe inches from your face while you hunt for the leak! .. I lost a partial eyebrow last week when I brushed the muffler!

I tore the head off this weekend and re-assembled.. I was painstakingly careful to make sure no debris was messing with the seal. I used a bit more copper coat than last time also, not thick but 2 passes on each side. I am pressure testing later tonight, fingers crossed!!!
 
Alright, I had some heart failure last night when I pressured the system up. A new leak pathway/drip came up and I chased it back to the frost plug in the rear of the new head. Huge bummer as it seems a frost plug remove and replace in this location would be brutal to impossible, there is just no room to extract and install a new plug it would seem so pull the engine or off with the head.. again? I wasn't about to go down that road until I was sure I couldn't fix it in place. I used a 11/16 stubby socket and a big <-BAD WORD-> pry bar between the firewall and head, I gave it one controlled press and felt it seat in better, leak is gone and everything else appears dry at 17PSI in the cooling system.. Run test later if another set of header gaskets show up!
 
Second re-assembly appears to be leak free. A little carb tunning and I might be able to go for a longer test drive this week!!



I made a couple long studs to help with the placement of the head, the weight is a little too much to try and hit the dowels leaning over the fender! In this position however I couldn't clear the heater core inlet so had to move the rear stud forward to a front position in order to be able to slide the head on (no picture)

PXL_20240127_170750359.jpg


I also got after the leak in my T-18 Transmission . I had a bad seal on the inspection cover gasket. The Transmission shop didn't use any sealant on the gasket so it was clean and pealed off nicely. I took the opportunity to make a new one for next time if this one didn't seal up with some gasket glue..

PXL_20240303_152249885.jpg

This didn't work very well >>
PXL_20240303_152703398.jpg

I used a small deep socket as a punch on the anvil and it made perfect holes >

PXL_20240303_153449522.jpg
PXL_20240303_153700750.jpg

Had this new Holley EFI fuel gauge sitting on the bench for months now, figured I should get that installed. Its a nice gauge, the preset for our sending units is pretty accurate but I calibrated this in manual mode and its even better. Also has an easy to set low fuel indicator.

PXL_20240302_180251696.jpg
 
Woohoo, out of the garage for a test drive close to home. So far so good. This new steering setup feels super tight.. and slow, almost too slow. I may ditch the HD dampener for comparison but almost feels like a lack of pressure.PXL_20240310_184401387.webp
 
  • Thanks for the Post!
Reactions: CJ
Woohoo, out of the garage for a test drive close to home. So far so good. This new steering setup feels super tight.. and slow, almost too slow. I may ditch the HD dampener for comparison but almost feels like a lack of pressure.View attachment 100823
Looks great, is your gear box a variable ratio box?
 
Looks great, is your gear box a variable ratio box?
Thanks, took a couple more quick runs and kicked up some mud on it finally.. felt like christening a ship haha

I thought all these gear boxes after a certain date were variable ratio.. reading over the specs on the one I bought it doesn't exactly specify..I know I read a few things on that before I bought one and thought that was what I was getting.

This is what I am running>
 
Yea, hard to tell. I'm wondering if the var ratio is causing you problems? A bad box (I hope not.)
 
I never really thought about a bad box.. What I feel is smooth steering, no real resistance just the speed feels off (too slow). I did reduce my steering wheel diameter by over an inch when I put in the Omix relica on so there is that variable as well. I'm not sure how much an 1"1/4 diameter reduction feels like? Maybe if feels just like this??? :) It does reduce the wander on the highway so its not necessarily a bad thing, might just need to get used to it.

I also put my 33" swampers back on yesterday.. I am not sure about these Trxus radials. The bead balancing is terrible and they were awful at 60mph, the Swampers unbalanced, ride pretty nice at 60-65mph on the hard stuff.
 
A wider lock to lock steer range is safer and can save you from an overcorrection mishap. Four turns on the steering wheel is typical. But the lack of “road feel” is the price to pay with most power assisted steering set ups.
 
A wider lock to lock steer range is safer and can save you from an overcorrection mishap. Four turns on the steering wheel is typical. But the lack of “road feel” is the price to pay with most power assisted steering set ups.
It does feel more "in control" and far less wander on the hard stuff when I lay into the pedal.. I have had 2 CJ's with power steering now and this new build still feels off, I said above no resistance but it feels like its a bit more resistance to turn than it should, like its running at half power :) I haven't removed the dampener yet to compare, maybe this week.
 
I knew there was a reason why I didn't want to widen the track on this rig!

While out in the mountain back country this weekend my wife grabbed a new info guide they had posted with all the new rules. The offroad restrictions here are largely based on tire track width which restricts vehicles that have a wider track than 1.8meters or 70.9 inches.. I am coming in at 68inches outer sidewall to sidewall which means I fall into a quad/side by side category and free to roam :) well not exactly free like the old days used to be thats for sure
 
I have had these wavian cans and carriers sitting in the garage for about 6months while I worked out my engine issues.

I bought a receiver double up extender and used that as the mount point.

I am going to weld on a couple up supports, doubt I'll need them, I used 1/8 wall square tubing and on top of the welding there are 2 x 3/8 bolts holding the cross member.

PXL_20240318_222359780.webp
PXL_20240318_223608396.webp
PXL_20240319_003447258.webp
PXL_20240319_003119670.MP.webp
PXL_20240319_003016489.webp
 
Siphon it right into the main tank. Nice.
 
Siphon it right into the main tank. Nice.
I never really thought of that until you commented and I looked at the picture again. I have an electric fuel pump from a quad that I use to pull fuel out of the tank and it would work perfect for this. Only thing I can think of is once you have used it out on the trail you have to store the pump/hose somewhere and there is always a little gas left in it, inside the cab would stink.. I would need a small external storage box.. going to think more about this one some more! Thanks for the comment!!
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$100.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  50.0%
Back
Top Bottom