• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7

Build Thread 1979 Jeep CJ7
Peanut Butter said:
How large of holes are we talking about? There is an old time method that may work for you. Lead or a Lead substitute. Eastwood has some: Eastwood Company: Search Results for leadinproducts
Click to expand...


The holes aren't bad. I think on the drivers there is one hole bellow the front seat mount down by the floor pan itself about the size of maybe a quarter. The rest are small holes. The pan on the drivers side is pretty good. The passenger floor pan is a little worse. Previous owner for some reason down from the transfer shift lever cut at least a one inch hole in the side of the hump letting water in under the carpet for who knows how long. It did a number on that floor pan.

Sounds like a good idea. I'll look into it. I know about leading but have never done it myself. I didn't know they still had kits to do that.
 
Decided to take the backseat out today and get the rest of the carpeting out. Then I just figured I'd take the front seats out and do some prep work for the bedliner paint. That turnes into a project. It's now in the garage drying out. I decided to use some kind of "metal repair" stuff at the local parts storeto fill the small holes. Then the bedliner paint is going on tomorrow. It will then get undercoated. So both sides will have coverage and that should buy me some time until I get past a few things so I have the time to put a new floor in. I think I seen a half floor somewhere. Thats what I think I'll do. The area behind the seats aren't too bad and the bed area is really good shape. I'll post somw pics when my computer desides it's done updating. I hate windows 10. They should have called it "windows update every dang 2 days 10." Grrrrr!
 
Found some stuff by Bondo called "plastic metal". Works pretty good for filling small holes etc.

However the Rustoleum bedliner application is not working out so well. Thought I had the floors all degreased but I missed some spots and the stuff is curling up. Not to mention the fumes. Wow. I wish I would have just waited and went with the POR15 instead. I've used it before with good results. My wind up stripping this stuff and going that route.
 
Well it worked out. Did some scraping and reapplying and it came out decent. It has two coats and finally covered well. I'll give it a few days to cure out.
 
jafo said:
I hate windows 10. They should have called it "windows update every dang 2 days 10." Grrrrr!
Click to expand...

Glad you got all that worked out. Be sure to post some pictures when it's dry.

I did the free upgrade to Windows 10 when it came out, turn right around and un-updated it. Back to 8.1
 
Peanut Butter said:
Glad you got all that worked out. Be sure to post some pictures when it's dry.

I did the free upgrade to Windows 10 when it came out, turn right around and un-updated it. Back to 8.1
Click to expand...

Smart move on the Windows.

I'll get some pics up. I had an idea today. I have to try it out first on a trash part. I want to try to go over the bed liner paint with old trunk spatter paint. I want tobmake sure both paints will coexist and to see if I'll like the looks. I've used that paint in classic car restos and it looks pretty good.......in a trunk. It dries pretty hard too and is a simple rattle can application. So it'd be quick. It would require masking sections off though. I also want to find a floor mat set that will fit front and back floor areas.
 
Well the bedliner paint went better than expected. The smell is still a little strong but itcs holding up well. I think I'll get the Rugged Ridge mat kit instead of spatter paint.

I also have been having some issues with drivability due to the alignment. It got better after the toe in was set, but could still get a little spooky when hitting dips in the road or windy conditions. So I decided being the steering won't come back to center on it own I figured It probably had zero to negative caster. So I decided to install 2* shims. Pretty easy install and it did help alot. While the steering doesn't quite return to center, it does now stay true to path. In other words I don't get that weave left to right back to left when it acts up. It has much more control. I think I will take the 2* shims out and put in some 4* shims. I think that might do it, it's almost there.
 
Mine is running with 6* shims.
 
Hedgehog said:
Mine is running with 6* shims.
Click to expand...

That's my next mod. I had these 2.5* shims left from the lift kit. I used the 6* shims out back. It helped but it's not there yet. I was thinking of 4* then 6* if needed. After driving it a few miles and different conditions, I'm leaning with going with 6* shims and be done with it. I just didn't want to get too carried away with it.

What brand of shims did you go with? I need 2" wide. The kit had 2.5" wide that I had to trim down. Took longer to trim them down than it did actually puting them in.
 
Got my fire extinguisher today and mounted. I didn't wnt to drill holes and had a specific place I wanted it. The bracket it came with won't mount to the roll bar so I put it on top of the passenger side rear fender well. I used, gulp, two sided tape from those 3m hanger things. It worked out well.

Also looked around for a replacement carb. Rock auto has a nice 2100 replacement carb for around $180. So I think I might go that route.

Also finally got time to mount my two LED lights. Just used the brackets they came with. They aren't Riggid lights but they'll do for now. Would like to get some KCHilights instead. Just kinda like the old school. I mounted these up by the outside rear view mirrors.

I'm aldo looking at a kit for the oil pump. It's fluctuating way to much for my liking. Sometimes it's 40psi somtimes it's 5psi. Could be the sending unti too. It looked kind of dirty. Do they have problems with the sending units?
 
Just make sure your shims are steel and not the Zinc castings.
You may also need new spring center bolt.
LG
 
I've been getting clutch chatter for the last couple days. Got in the manual and said to check motor mounts. Mu passenger side mount bolts were both loose. Chalk up one for the old manual. It seems to have fixed it.
 
Check your tranny mount also.
LG
 
Got my new wiper switch yesterday. Took about 5 minutes to put in and now have a working washerfluid pump. I also put a new oil sending unit in and it stabilized the oil pressure guage. No more diving to zero. Running temp it's 10 psi. So that's not the best, but it's fine. It doesnct dip below 10.
 
ya know, it just occurred to me - all this progress and not a single pic for many posts....... yer makin all this up........ no pics, it never happened :poke:
 
:agree: :laugh: :poke:
LG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$25.00
This donation drive ends in
Contribute
Back
Top Bottom