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Build Thread 1980 CJ5 resto/mod

Build Thread 1980 CJ5 resto/mod
When it comes to this I have always said its not how fast you get it done but how well you get it done. You are doing a great job :chug:
 
Thanks! I forgot to add that I also used the Eastwood rust stuff for inside the frame. The price kinda hurt my feelings, but it worked as well as advertised. All the tape I took off the holes I covered had a THICK coat of paint on it. I would highly recommend this $50 for two cans I this stuff. That's enough for two coats applied heavily;).


This won't be too expensive Dear! That's what I keep saying. Over and over again.
 
mtnwhlr said:
When it comes to this I have always said its not how fast you get it done but how well you get it done. You are doing a great job :chug:
Click to expand...

Lookin' good Danny! :chug:
 
Another statement about the Eastwood product. Before application, I taped up all the holes on the frame except what I was going to use for the application. Put on two coats with an hour or so between. Gave that another hour and went to pull the tape off. Each and every piece of tape I pulled off, no matter what side of the frame it came from, was covered in black paint. Top, sides, front, back, or bottom, it was all covered. Some had even pooled in the low spots in the frame and ran out when I took the tape off. :D (I had full intentions of taking a picture of the tape but I had paint all over my hand and didn't want it on my camera)

I can't remember who the member was that recommended this product, but I just wanted to say thanks for the suggestion. :notworthy:

I would highly recommend this product to all who have the frame off and can wash/beat the dirt and mud that has accumulated over the last 30ish years. :chug:
 
Got the engine over to the machine shop today.:banana:

Hands were waiting outside the door for the boss to get there this morning, they said someone had gone to get him because his vehicle broke down on the way in.:laugh: While waiting, the shop foreman walked over to my truck and had a look at the pile of parts in the back. He said "Looks like all I'm going to have to do with that is ream the cylinder walls out a little on the top. You have already bored it 60 over!":eek: He looked at my cam and asked if I needed a trotline weight because he wouldn't put that back in anything!:eek: (Reminder: This was driven without incident over 20 miles the day before I tore it down:confused:)

He was a pretty cool guy and said that the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l is the best motor they have ever made. Mine was in pretty bad shape, but the measurements would tell the tale. He had seen WAY worse over the years and thought it would be fine. Also read the casting number and asked me if it was a 1980, that was the "rare" one. I was pretty impressed with his knowledge. He just can't understand the SBC in a Jeep and was glad that another was being restored. I agreed.:chug:
 
I brought out the plasma cutter today to remove some roll cage and seat belt bolts that were in their happy place! 15 mins later, problem solved. I am going to weld a good bolt to the bottom of a piece of 4X4" plate to act as a stud to hold on the new seatbelts is the plan for now, but plans change...:D

While the plasma cutter was in my hand, I decided to cut out a section of rust under the roll bar plate. Since it was cutting so well, I decided to remove most all of the rusty spots:eek:! I will need about 1 foot square of new metal to get it all back like it was. Pretty lucky for that!

I didn't want to mess with painting the outside of the tub, but I might have to. Won't be paint, but a monsta/raptor liner of sorts. Haven't made the purchase yet, still up in the air on it. Might go with the repair/prime/cover with aluminum panel method on the outside of the tub. I haven't formed an opinion of the aesthetics of the aluminum diamond plate, but I dont think it will work on mine with the "body work" I did with two sledge hammers today...

Pics to come as soon as it looks like progress is happening, I promise;)
 
thiswontbetooexpensive said:
Couple things to consider that have not changed in a while:
1. Metal is heavy.
2. Bolts that havent turned in 32 years are a lot easier to turn when they are covered in leaked motor oil.
3. Gravity can be both your friend and enemy within mere seconds of each other.
4. Motor and Transmission mounts have a tendancy to loose structural integrity after 32 years as well.
5. Metal is always heavy. And yes, that bears repeating!
Click to expand...

Catching up on your thread. This is hilarious.
 
I'd pass on the diamond plate, seems like every jeep I look at that has it put on has rust under it. The sand and grit gets between the panels and just works away and the paint till it starts rusting. It's a cool look but would need serious consideration/prep to make it viable. Maybe spray it with undercoat to act as a gasket of sorts between the diamond plate and body. Haven't put much thought into it since I decided to pass on doing it to my old 79.
 
I think most diamond plate is put on over rust to hide it. I know I've done it :)
 
Had a call from the machine shop today and the engine should be ready Friday!:banana::banana:

After I get the body reapirs done with the new sheet metal I picked up yesterday and get the spray on liner done all over, this bad boy should start looking a little more like a CJ again.:chug:

I believe that the scuffing and scrapping will commence soon to prep for the spray in liner color matched to original paint color. Just going to do the whole thing with exception of windshield frame. (Gonna paint that black, who would have thought!):D
 
Engine was not ready Friday:(. Maybe tomorrow or Tuesday I can go get it.

Got the fuel line done and installed that runs from the tank to the pump today. Father-in-law walked into the barn as I was putting the last bracket on and was inpressed with my work. I have him fooled too I guess!:D

Need to get a clutch, engine mounts, and some u-joints; then I should have the drive train back together.:chug:
 
http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/0/9/7/4/engine_rebuilt_small_pic.jpg The engine came home today!:banana::banana:
Before: After:
Had some questions that are posted up on my thread on this beast in Drivetrain section.

They did all the usual cleaning and inspecting and wound up boring it 60 over. Crank was turned some and got a new cam and lifters. Head got a makeover including three angle valve job, new springs, and valves. All that was pressure tested and the engine lubricating system was tested as well. Kinda sad to see oil all over that shiney paint, but good to know it was tested. They ground the flywheel as well as sending me home with this pile of new gaskets. I really don't remember taking that many gaskets off the engine!!!:eek:

Need to get a new clutch and related components then it can go back on the frame. Starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere on this!:chug:
 
Thanks Kilo19!

Got to fixing some of the spots already removed with the plasma cutter on the tub. Not too much to do, maybe 1.5sq feet total in about 10 holes.:D

Before I am asked, I will not be posting pictures of this stage of the repair. I feel I have somewhat of a reputation to uphold and my abilities with a grinder far outweigh my abilities with a wire welder on too-thin sheet metal.:cool:

This job will look a lot better when the new bedliner is applied...:chug:
 
My Dad, who spent his entier life behind a hood told me he would kick my rear end if I ever took up the trade. Stay in school; get an easier job he also said. I have two (2) college degrees and welding is still not easy.:(

Tub repairs are coming along ever so slowly. I'm about tired of black stuff in my nose from grinding and a facemask doesn't work too well for users of smokeless tobacco... Not too much left on this but I am pretty anal about stuff. Can't leave any holes fromt the PO or I won't sleep well at night.

I did get a lot of the engine assembled this afternoon. Completion of valve train, valve cover on, timing chain cover on, water pump on, whatever the aluminum piece is called abone the water pump is on as well.

Remembered I need a new harmonic balancer when I went to grab this part for installation.:mad: Just Empty Every Pocket. But it will be cheaper than a 2013 Ford Explorer Limited ! I will get some photos up when I can. Might get the engine back on the frame and attached to the tranny in the next few days. Have to play in a golf tournament for work Saturday; my job can get rough sometimes...:chug:
 
BrockGrimes said:
I'd pass on the diamond plate, seems like every jeep I look at that has it put on has rust under it. The sand and grit gets between the panels and just works away and the paint till it starts rusting. It's a cool look but would need serious consideration/prep to make it viable. Maybe spray it with undercoat to act as a gasket of sorts between the diamond plate and body. Haven't put much thought into it since I decided to pass on doing it to my old 79.
Click to expand...

I had a guy tell me one time to use RTV on the top and sides of armor and leave the bottom open. His thought was that the sealant on the top and sides woukd keep moisture out, and if any got in, it would drain out the bottom. Seems logical to me.

I was wondering about things like windshield hinges that seem to have the same problem. I was pondering taking some old inner tubes I have and making a gasket to sit between the cowl/windshield and the windshield hinges.
 
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