Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[gert]

The level and tape measure is same way i aligned mine, got it close enough alignment shop was happy with it

Uour interior looks great to


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[Belizean]

My buddy came over and did mine with a tape and 6 ft straight edge. Haven’t even been for an alignment yet it’s so close.

 

[j6824]

As far as the wander goes, might consider a tie rod flip

It's usually associated with bumpsteer, but I can testify to the fact that it made all the difference in the world when I did it to mine

The flatter you can get the drag link, the better

 

[KRUPP]

j6824,
Thanks and that’s exact what I’m thinking. I’m looking at flipping the drag link to the top of the steering arm. I actually inquired in another thread on this forum about it. Was looking at an insert so I could use the new, heavy-duty drag link I recently installed. It has the factory tapered ends. Just wanted some feedback first before I pulled the trigger.

 

[j6824]

j6824,
Thanks and that’s exact what I’m thinking. I’m looking at flipping the drag link to the top of the steering arm. I actually inquired in another thread on this forum about it. Was looking at an insert so I could use the new, heavy-duty drag link I recently installed. It has the factory tapered ends. Just wanted some feedback first before I pulled the trigger.

Let me know if you decide to do it...I've got a reamer you're welcome to borrow

 

[KRUPP]

Mar 21, 23:
Appreciate the help!

-I ordered an insert/cone from OK4WD. I also located a tapered reamer locally. It's a 7d+ (7/16" - 1"), which I believe is correct.
-On another note, the Jeep is officially Titled and Registered in our name now. May not seem like a big deal, but I've been working on this since October. Whew!
-Switched gears a bit and started fabricating a spare tire carrier/front rack for my flatbed trailer. Haven't bought steel in a while and BOY has it got ridiculous!
-While I was at it, I got 4 new trailer tires mounted, cleaned up the hubs & greased the bearings. The trailer needs attention too, especially since it's gonna make an 800 mile trip soon.

 

[TSB8C]

Congrats on the title/registration thing. When I built my Dinoot trailer, took an act of congress to get it registered and titled here in TX. Pay at the county tax office for a temporary (30 day only) registration to go to the county trailer inspection place. Then go to a weigh station and get a certificate of weight. Then back to the county tax office with the inspection report, weight certificate, BOL for the trailer parts, and a notarized affidavit, pay again for the normal 12-month registration, file an application for title and VIN assignment, then wait about 8 weeks for all the paperwork to come back. Told I forgot one document, send it all in again (with another fee). After about 3 plus months, finally legal on the road. Took less time to actually build the trailer itself.

 

[gert]

Nope getting the title in your name is a big deal, makes life a lot easier now


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[KRUPP]

Thanks you Gents.
Indeed, it was such a battle getting that done. So glad it's over with!

-Been working on the flatbed trailer (I use to haul the trailer-queen Jeep) while I wait for a couple more parts. Got most of the rack & mount fabd up. Gonna replace the jack while I'm at it - it's seen better days, and I like the idea of a side-winding crank, instead of the top-winding. It'll allow me to move my storage box forward to help clear the new mounted spare tire. Top-winder jack would bump into the box if I moved it forward any more.
Dad & I made the trailer in 1996. Stout!

 

[KRUPP]

Mar 25, 23:

-Flipped the drag link to the top of the steering arm on the knuckle. Very easy and looks pretty parallel now. Located a tapered reamer, but was just waiting on the tapered insert from OK4WD. Dang cold out now, so can't test drive to see how it steers now. Supposed to snow again tomorrow too.
-Finished the front spare tire rack for the trailer, along with the new jack with a side-winding crank. Moved the storage box forward about 3" to make room to get the spare on and off.
Trailer really needs a paint job!

 

[KRUPP]

Mar 30, 23:
-Test drive this afternoon. It’s cool now that I’m plated and “legal”. Extends my test-driving envelope beyond the hood. Plenty of Lookie Lous along the way and compliments at the gas station. CJ guys understand and get it. Right?
Jeep drives well now. Didn’t get to 5th gear, but no vibrations, no clunking, no steering issues, brakes are fine, and my turn signals and brake lights even worked!

 

[gert]

It’s awesome that its running good, i like the paint scheme to


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[KRUPP]

April 2, 23:

-Still tying up a few loose ends before the Moab trip. Changed motor oil and filter in the Jeep. Rear gear oil changed as well. Put a "Lube Locker" gasket on the rear. Seems like a great alternative to the old sealant method and no leaks so far.
-Replaced the front rotors and pads on my tow truck (2012 Toyota Tundra). They were due and necessary before the trip. Oil and filter changed on the truck as well. Much more complicated than the simple Jeep.
-Received my license plates on Saturday. Colorado DMV is actually pretty good at turning those around quick. Funny thing is, that part is done by prisoners in my old hometown in Southern Colorado.
(KNA CJ7 = Kevin and Apryl's CJ7 ).

 

[KRUPP]

April 10, 23:

-Back from Moab for some fun at the Easter Jeep Safari. Great time with the family!
-Jeep ran great every morning, until about lunchtime. Until now, I hadn't run the Jeep for more than 30 mins or so. Motor started starving for fuel and sputtering at above idle rpm. Had to feather the gas to get it to run. Feels alot like a vapor lock condition. Or, maybe it's a really bad vacuum leak issue. Jeep surges at idle as well.
Funny thing is, it only happened after a couple hours of running - right after lunchtime. Kinda like it needs the motor to be really warm and the outside temperature to be higher to happen. Could it be an intake manifold leak, which needs the metal/gasket to get really warm first? Or, fuel is actually vaporizing somewhere? I put in a new fuel filter, but that didn't help. I also put in a new Throttle Position Sensor on the Throttle Body, but that didn't help either.
I was gonna try warming it up good and checking for vac leaks with carb cleaner. Any thoughts guys?

 

[gert]

Give the carb cleaner a shot it dosent hurt, and you get clean spots on your motor


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[gert]

Nvrmind i see you have tbi


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[gert]

Knowing what your fuel pressure at you TB can help troubleshoot a bad pump


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[Belizean]

Is the pump in the tank or external ?

 

[KRUPP]

Thanks for the reply, Gents
I could start with fuel pressure first, might make more sense.
It's a Howell system installed per their directions. Pump is the "Walbro" unit that the kit came with, mounted on the inside of the frame, passenger side, next to the Transfer Case above the skid plate. Filter is mounted directly next to it, suction side of the pump.
Apparently, I'm supposed to have 12.3V at the pump electrical connection. The psi is supposed to be around 40 at the discharge of the pump. I will try to check both readings. Thinking I'll maybe even rig up a "T" and gauge right at the throttle body, so I can observe easily while under the hood.

 

[gert]

To me the only number that matters is the pressure at the injectors which should be 12-14 psi

As long as the pump puts out enough volume to keep you at 12psi at WOT your good


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