Build Thread 1986 CJ7 Build

[KRUPP]

Armyvet,
The Wagoneer Dana 44 front is about 4" wider than the widetrack Dana 30 in there now. As you mentioned, since the passenger spring mount is fixed on the housing, if you shorten the long side (driver) about 4", and slide in the spring mount the appropriate amount, it will "center" the housing under the Jeep. The passenger side dimension from spring mount to wheel mounting surface is about the same on both axles.
It's fairly common, if you don't go with the spring out-boarding route.
I'll have to get one shorter inner axle shaft. I'll be using the Dana 30 knuckles and everything on them, since everything is new from last winter. I'll need new outer axle shafts too to make this work, since the Wagoneer's are 19-spline and my current hub setup is 27-spline, iirc.

 

[Armyvet25]

Sounds like a lot of $$$$ total lol. but since you already had some new components and to keep the same profile, especially from front to back makes sense, i assume the spring out-boarding route would be more economical for most trail rigs

 

[KRUPP]

Just like your signature says... Right? Ha!

3 new axle shafts will be about $450. I think if you actually bought an out-boarding "kit" it would be approaching that.
Who am I kidding though. We always end up spending more dough (and time) on these damn things than we planned.

 

[CJ]

Nope CJ. Pretty damn cold here now and I’m wishing for that South Florida sugar sand. I like that Ft Lauderdale stuff.
Don’t have the heat setup yet in the garage and it’s rough.

We finally hit 39! 39.9 to be exact. Back up to 71 now and 80 tomorrow...

 

[Belizean]

I bet that pretty sand was cold on the feet this morning.

 

[KRUPP]

CJ,
That's quite a swing in temps! About as much differential as here in CO. Highs were in the teens Thur and Fri, and then around 60* Monday thru today.

Nov 29, 23:
-Cut off the shock mount and spring pad on the driver's side, carefully, so I can re-use both of them. Used a 4.5" cutting disc on one of the grinders.




-Ordered Scout II outer axle shafts so I can reuse my Jeep CJ knuckles and everything else connected to them, since it's all new from last winter (spindles, bearings, seals, ball joints, rotors, calipers). I'm waiting til I measure and chop the long side tube to order the replacement inner axle shaft. Will probably go with a Dutchman.
Had a discount code for Jeg's, so pretty good deal at under $100/ea for the stubs.

USA Alloy 013-10128 Dana 30/44
High Strength Front Axle Shaft
1971-86 International Scout II

 

[KRUPP]

12/2/23:
-Cut the long side of the Wagoneer Dana 44 off today. Did it in 2 cuts. 1st cut was as close to the “C” as possible: through the factory fillet weld. Milwaukee bandsaw sliced like a knife through cheese.
Second cut was for real and was square.

 

[Patrick]

That’s interesting. Keep updating.

That saw is a marvel, got me one recently.

 

[KRUPP]

Dec 3, 23:
-Removed the section of axle housing tube from within the inner “C” that I chopped off. Lots of grinding, two sawzall cuts for a relief wedge and some pounding with chisel and punch.
-Wire-brushed the housing with a grinder to clean it up and prep for paint.
-Welded the spring perch and shock mount back on. Made sure my spacing was close to 27.5” for the perch and that it was parallel/level with the other one.

 

[Patrick]

I would think your other inner C will dictate your caster. Do you know how much you will end up with…

Similar to what you are doing, I made my rear axle. One of those mods that are very rewarding.

 

[KRUPP]

Yes, correct. I ground down the other spring perch a bit in hopes of gaining another degree or so of caster. I simply measured with angle finder as I ground a wedge in the spring pad casting. Then, welded the relocated spring perch to match parallel. I do not know what I’m gonna end up with though for caster.

 

[Patrick]

I am afraid you missed out on taking your axle build to the next level. I would have removed both C’s and still attain the same width. Also, know that in the unlikely chance that you wanted an LS swap, anything more than the final positioning of the pinion yoke in relation to the passenger side wheel mounting flange that the original Dana 30 provides, will have serious issues with the oil pan. As it is with the 30, you are Limited to the original small diameter driveshaft axle tube. FYI

 

[Patrick]

KRUPP, I am going to have to state the issue with LS more accurately. If that larger 44 pumpkin brings the pinion yoke any closer than the 30 does to the oil pan, then it’s time to scratch heads. The good news is that lift springs will help, and you might not have to worry with anything non LS. Move on brother.

 

[KRUPP]

Patrick,
Thanks for the comments and I understand what you're saying. I was kinda stuck with cutting down the long/driver side, since I'm not out-boarding the springs and want to center the axle beneath the vehicle. The Wagoneers are supposed to have more caster than the Scouts, which is why I used one over an IH. We'll see though. Years ago I had a '79 CJ5 with a Scout front end swap and it had zero caster - want to avoid that again.
Zero chance for an LS motor swap on this one.

 

[KRUPP]

Dec 4, 23:
- Planned to order new long inner axle shaft. 4.25” shorter than OEM.
However, I noticed that the short inner shaft has a good bit of what appears to be wear at the seal area. Not sure if it warrants a new shaft or not.
What do you guys think?

 

[Patrick]

You might be able to drive the seal further. Only you can tell.

 

[KRUPP]

Dec 11, 23:
-Front end is getting refreshed now. Took it to a local shop the other day. Getting all new Yukon stuff with 4.56:1 and a Detroit to match the rear.
-Just received the new inner axle for the shortened driver side. Went with Dutchman. Looks well made.

-Started installing the new Spicer U-joints to connect to the new Stub Shafts I have from Jeg’s.


-Have an upholstery guy picked out now to redo my driver’s seat bottom. Got several quotes. One guy wanted almost $1,000 to do just the one seat bottom. Geesh!

 

[KRUPP]

Dec 15, 23:
-Work is stupid-busy now (negative).
But, our kids are coming home from school for Christmas break (positive).
Result: probably not much Jeep work for a while. That’s alright though.
-Installed the last u-joint to connect the new, driver side, front axle shafts. Shot a coat of paint on it and it’s ready to go.


-Jeep is comfy now with its blanket for the winter. Mostly helps keep the dust out/off it while I do my carpentry stuff in the garage.
Currently doing cabinets for the basement kitchen.

 

[CJ]

Dec 15, 23:
-Work is stupid-busy now (negative).
But, our kids are coming home from school for Christmas break (positive).
Result: probably not much Jeep work for a while. That’s alright though.
-Installed the last u-joint to connect the new, driver side, front axle shafts. Shot a coat of paint on it and it’s ready to go.
View attachment 100244

-Jeep is comfy now with its blanket for the winter. Mostly helps keep the dust out/off it while I do my carpentry stuff in the garage.
Currently doing cabinets for the basement kitchen.
View attachment 100245

That's a nice shiney axle.
The CJ shure looks comfy in its binkee

 

[KRUPP]

Christmas Day, ‘23:
-White Christmas here. Cold too. Whole clan is home and it’s nice! Find myself going a bit stir-crazy though. Worked on the basement cabinets a bit, but kept thinking about the Jeep to-dos as well.
-Driver seat re-upholstery: Finally!
Upon bracketry removal, it became obvious that there was an issue with the welded nuts within the frame, because they seemed to just want to free themselves from the seat frame. If you’ve ever delved into the bottom of your bucket in your CJ, you’ll see a bewildering product from Toledo, OH. Seat foam was cast/injected to encase the seat bottom frame. Of course it’s a rust-trap. I found a penny too. Ha!
-Some wire brushing, a bit of grinding and some welding and I think the upholstery guy can do his stuff now.
-Bracketry all removed, cleaned up and ready for reinstall.