351w and Ford T18 clutch assembly questions

[cglax6]

All,

I'm in the early stages (still planning) of doing a 351w swap on my '76 CJ5 . I'll be using a Ford T-18 with a Dana 20 . I currently have a AMC 304 and T-18 w/Dana 20 .

Anyone out there do something similar?

I'm trying to figure out if I'm going to need a whole new clutch pedal assembly. Maybe if I'm lucky, I can find someone out there that has done this and fill me in on exactly what I need.

Engine, bellhousing, clutch components, and Transmission are native to a bunch of Fords, so it'll be easy to track down what I need between the engine and Transmission . Just trying to figure out if I need anything special between my foot and the clutch fork...or will I be able to use what I already have installed for the AMC 304 and T-18 .

Thank you!

 

[gert]

I doubt you will need to change the pedal but you will probably be monkeying with the Z bar that goes between the frame and bell housing


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[HackFabrication]

I'm in the early stages (still planning) of doing a 351w swap on my '76 CJ5 . I'll be using a Ford T-18 with a Dana 20 . I currently have a AMC 304 and T-18 w/Dana 20 .

Anyone out there do something similar?

Engine, bellhousing, clutch components, and Transmission are native to a bunch of Fords, so it'll be easy to track down what I need between the engine and Transmission . Just trying to figure out if I need anything special between my foot and the clutch fork...or will I be able to use what I already have installed for the AMC 304 and T-18 .

If you're not familiar with this thread: https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-hardcore-tech/45309-totw-ford-302-engine-swaps.html Get comfortable and start reading. There'll be a lot of my pics on there, but due to the Photobucket hijack, you may or may not be able to see them. Try using Chrome browser and getting the Photobucket add-in which works around the issue.

I put a Ford 5.0L into my 76 CJ5 . The 5.8L is a slightly larger engine, but it will fit. It has a Ford T-18 and the Dana 20 . You will need to purchase an adapter for the Transmission to Transfer Case , as the Jeep T-18 is not the same. You can save some money, by gutting the Jeep T-18 for the mainshaft, and rebuilding the Ford T-18 using it. That is what I did, as my Jeep T-18 was the 4.02 first gear version.

The only thing specific about Ford stuff, is that the bellhousing must match the flywheel, and the starter needs to match both. If you can get an entire engine/Transmission combo, then you won't have to do a bunch of searching and guessing.

The clutch mechanism has a variety of solutions. Bolting the OEM Jeep stuff on isn't one of them. You can use everything BUT the mount that afixes to the engine/Transmission . I fabricated one for my install. You can also go hydraulic, but that's going to necessitate some other fabrication.

Let me know, there are a few of us hanging around here that have done the SBF swap.

 

[cglax6]

Thanks Hack!

Definitely some good info there. I was more or less trying to figure out if there was a solution out there. I'm good with having to fabricate brackets and whatnot.

I made friends with a gentleman down the road that runs a performance shop, and he's really interested in my build, so he'll be able to lend me a hand with the stuff like that. He is pretty impressed with my work so far. Might even be able to snag some bay space from him when it comes time for install.

As I get closer, I may end up shooting you some PMs if I have any other specific questions.

Ya'll are great!

Take it easy.

 

[cglax6]

Forgot to mention that I have the bell housing, flywheel, and starter that I need. Was planning on getting an adaptor kit from Novak to mate the Ford T-18 to the Dana 20 .

The engine needed a new oil pump and oil pan. Need to figure something out because the pump and pan don't like each other. Not enough clearance at the front of the pan where the pump sits. Might take a peen to it tomorrow and see if I can't shape it out enough to make room. It's a Melling standard pump...not the bigger high pressure/flow pump. I do know that a lot of the aftermarket OE style pans have some clearance issues, so I think a couple minutes with the hammer will be fine.