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Was the other fuel pump from the 4.0 in tank?You could put a elec pump back by the tank with a large pre filter like Howell Inj does it.Depends on what it needs for fuel press to determine pump sizing.I think thats what your talking about when you say fuel delivery
Mike
Well yeah I just am worried about it is all. I have a handle oon everything and a thorough understanding of the components engine wise and wiring just not fuel. I read the inlines tend to go bad and that has me concerned. I was thinking about getting a intake pump for a 94-95 cherokee and dropping my tank and installing it on the assembly. But intank pump or inline what about the fuel lines?Will i have to redo all my hard lines on the sending side as well as all the rubber lines.. Questions like that.
I am getting ready to install a inline pump into my carbed waggy. And that is supposed to be super easy according to everyone online. But I was under there today before the rain hit trying to figure out where the heck to put it. My hardlines in it run from the tank almost all the way to the power steering box before the soft lines start. So I guess I am going to have to cut a section of the hardline out under the frame. Fuel delivery and A/Cs just confuse me I guess.
Got the clifford's spacers today.... for 33 dollars you get 4 spacers not 14. I called cliffords and was like "WTF" and they said that you just put two in the front and two in the back and thats all that is necessary.... I don't like it I think that it would make more sense to center all the bolts but whatever cliffords knows more about engines than I.
I used carbe cleaner to clean the mating surfaces of the block and the head and also cleaned the top of the pistons and the cyclinder walls. Then (since I have my Battery tray removed) I stood on the frame and dropped the head in placeTorqued the bolts all to 85 FT/LBs with the exception of #11 that got a little locktight on the thread and 75 Ft/LBS
I test fit the intake and it looks like the serpentine power steering bracket will actually mount to the intake... Not sure though because some of the power steering lines were in the way. I am still thinking about pulling a Serp setup from a donor but may be able to get away with out it just by rerouting the PS lines.
Well making some forward progress now. Got the Rods installed(I reused the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l ones) and then got the rocker assemblies in (I used the ones from the donor) I also went down to the U pullit and gots me a serpentine setup... I am not sure if the components will work but I was mostly hafter the brackets and idlers.
I went with a 91-95 xj for the serp donor so as to keep from mixing years as much as possible. I have been told not to go with an xj serp because they have an offset cooling fan and it will cause clearence issues. This is not really a conrern for me because I will be running a contour fan and if need be I can shorten the studs on the fan pully.
I broke the mismatch rule on the valve cover by pulling a 1996 cover but hey it was in the best condition I could find and it had a cool spark plug wire corraller thingy.
I also grabbed a ecm from a manual OBD1 xj.
Grand total ------$60 bucks.
Intake and exhaust are mocked up... Had to bend the brake lines a little more to clear the intake.
I was just thinking about it and I am going to be pretty ticked if I can't get this to run or I blow the head gasket or something when this is all done. So far it has been a little too easy.
If you are still worried about your fuel issue, I would get a relatively high pressure electric inline pump and use a regulator in the engine bay. This way you wont have to worry about inadequate pressure and you can dink with it if it's not just right. Also I hate dropping the tank to get at the dang pump if something does go kerflooey. Just remember that most inline pumps are pushers- not pullers- so it will have to be as close to the tank as possible.
If you are still worried about your fuel issue, I would get a relatively high pressure electric inline pump and use a regulator in the engine bay. This way you wont have to worry about inadequate pressure and you can dink with it if it's not just right. Also I hate dropping the tank to get at the dang pump if something does go kerflooey. Just remember that most inline pumps are pushers- not pullers- so it will have to be as close to the tank as possible.
Well here are the issues... First the original cj lines run down the pass side and come up on the pass side of the block. I guess this isn't too much of a problem because I see no reason why I just can't get a super long fuel injection hose and run it from the hard line to the the fuel regulator and it could follow the same path as it would have with the mech pump.... But can I reuse my hard lines? I mean I would think since they are metal that the higher pressure (i think i read online I needed a 60 psi pump and a 40 psi regulator?) but I am no expert and no one really puts a lot of detail into the fuel delivery in the write ups.
Also do only rubber hoses between the fuel pump and the engine need to be upgraded, or do you also have to change out any that run from the tank to the begining of the hardlines?
I was thinking intank but an inline sounds more servicable. But why do people claim you need to keep a spare at all times? Do these have that poor service life? I mean a good quality one is close to 90 dollars so to get a spare and a primary you are looking at 180.
My other concern is the fact that I only torqued the head bolts to 85 Ft/LBs which is the torque spec for an 82 CJ7 with 7/16 bolts. But hey if IO hasn't had any issues with it I guess I shouldn't worry.
for the rubber line i would run all fuel injection hose. the hard line should be fine if there not rusty. if they are i would replace them. fi hose i not cheap. i work at advance and its about $5 a foot.
I think people keep spares just to have it.If you put a large fuel filter on the suction side you should be fine.Mines mounted on the frame close to the tank passenger side.Its been running for 12 years no problem.Just don't get a cheap one locate it close to the tank.If you can try to protect it with something.It'll probably run you a 100 plus for on.Ask Dale Fan what one costs and a regulator
Mike
i know a good inline fuel pump is about $90. tell them a external mounted one on a say i think 86 ford f150 and check the psi on the box and we do carry other one just hope you get a good parts person cause the others are not in the computer. people at work always come to me cause i know which one it is. i would have to check on the regulator. which one will he need?
Ok well since I last updated I have torqued on the intake and the exhaust and installed the serpentine.
Torqing theintake bolts was pretty easy to do. All i did was but the front and rear studs to line the exhaust up and then the intake has alignment studs built into the head. I hand tightened all the studs and then followed the torque sequence on jeepoffroad.com's write up on the 4.0 swap. Torqued all the bolts to 23 pounds.
The serpentine was relatively easy. I pulled everything from a pre 94 HO xj. I want to say it was a 93 but I dont recall. I am going back to the boneyard to get the Powersteering lines from it so I will confirm the year then. I was told not to go with the xj setup as I have mentioned before because XJs have an offset fan and running it will conflict with your front clip. I have contour fans so no biggie, I am estimating I will have about an 1'' of clearence at the tip of the bolts for the fan(that is the furthest point of the setup).
I had posted alot of ?'s on cjoffroad about this and was told the serp should go in with no mods. This is not true. the alternator bracket on mounts to the 4.0 in 4 places, 2 to the block and 2 to the timing cover. The two block mounts are not on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l but the 2 timing cover slots are. The upper one is just bored straight through and the bolt slide through and threads into the bracket no problem. the bottom position is bored half way through on the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l and then has a smaller taped hole for a bolt the rest of the way. What I did was took a drill and widened the back half to the same size as the front and slide the bolt through
(NOTE-patience is a virtue here I didn't want to take the time to do it right and remove stuff off the front clip so i could come at the hole even and I came at it from behind. My drill is too large and I still couldnt get a straight shot at it. My hole went in at an angle. Luckily It was just enough that I couldt thread the bolt through but it was a close call.)
Also my AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l had an eyelet at the bottom of my block. I am not sure why its there, maybe the factory used it to hoist the engine? It was preventing the alty bracket from falling in place so I cut a v out of it and eveything mounted up.
The AC mounts in the same holes as the original,3 in the block and 1 in the timing cover. and then the PS bracket mounts to the water pump and the intake. I did't take the time to measure but there may be a chance that the PS braket will fit the original intake if someone wants to upgrade to serp but keep the carb and stuff.
Also (and I did know this) the AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l 's crankshaft is longer in the front so you need to buy a spacer. HEsco has it for 35 bucks.Hesco Inc. - High Performance Engine Service Fortunately I have a guy locally that needed the tilt column out of a parts car I am scraping and he had made one of these before and so he made me one as payment. What he did was took an old v-belt crank and cut the center out then turned it to even it out and used a micrometer to make sure it was the correct size. Not a bad deal for me.
This week I have got to go back and get the line that screws into the top of the PS pump. I thought I could use the CJ one but not the case. WHat I will have to do is take the line off the PS box and then take the part that mounts to the pump and take them to a shop and have them join the lines. It will probably cost more than it should but it shouldn't be too hard to do and after that it will be plug and play. The return line slides on no problem BTW.
Felpro Gasket
Torqued on
Serpentine goodness
By the way I am pretty sure the serp is not necessary for a 4.0 head or 4.0 injection swap. I just figured while I was at it may as well. And it is releatively easy to pull and install. This serp cost me 60 bucks and I got everything except the harmonic balancer, I even got the belt because it was visually in decent condition and i figured it has some life left. The only reason that wasn't incleded for 60 bucks was because I didnt have a puller with me. Also for that same price I got an ECM and a Zj valvecover.
I didn't get a whole lot done today. I did index my Dizzy and install the radiator.
I wasn't sure how to go about installing a dizzy into a system with spark control so I looked it up online. THe 4.0 dizzy has a tab on it with two ears that prevents you from twisting it when intalled. I read in several places on line that you should cut an ear off for installation so that you can rotate the dizzy. That sounds fishy to me because if the ear needed to be cut off it just would not be there factory. What I did was follow a write up I found on CJoffroad and I removed my valve cover so I could confirm TDC by looking at the springs then I rotated my oil pump to the 11 position and dropped the dizzy in. The result? The distributor was pointing right to the the position labeled 1 on the dizzy cap and the ears were correctly positioned on the retaining bolt. Hopefully this is right. On the write up I followed the dizzy was actually not pointing exactly at 1 when they installed it. But in the write up their dizzy looked different so I think they were installing an OBDII setup whereas I am doing an OBDI. We will see whenever the engine does or doesn't start in the next day or two.
So as of right now I just need to add coolant and oil to the engine, work out the fuel lines and wire it up all the hardware is installed.
Dizzy installed
Clearence on the electric fan and the fan idler pully. The contour fan fits so well my dad didn't even notice it was intalled when he looked under the hood after work.
No they quit doing that. I think that the fuel injection negates the need for that because you no longer have to worry the intake heatin up the gas too much. Interestingly enough I did not have to buy any new heater hosing to bypass the intake. The original hosing was long enough.
I am going to buy the e2000 pump like this guy did. I am not however going to buy the hesco fuel pressure regulator because that is insane at 189 bucks unless you are running a stoker or drg race engine.I am gettin the hesco fuel pump but that is because I found a brand new one locally for 60 bucks.
I am going to put the pump inline with the top of the tank and install the filter before the pump and run fuel injection rated hose to the stock metal line on the pass side framerail. Then i am basically going run fuel injection rated hose from the end of the hardline to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail following the same path as it would have before. I know it will be alot of fuel injection hose but its better than running goin throuh the trouble of rerouting the whole line to the drivers side.
If I moved it to the driver's I would also have the added concern of having the sending lines on the same side as the exhaust and there would be an increased chance of vapor lock or ,heaven forbid in an accident and the computer doesn't shut down the pump, gas spewing onto a hot exhaust pipe. Not to mention extra head ache.
I also am going to install the fuel pressure gauge like in that write up becaue it is a good idea and will make it alot easier to rule out fuel issues in the event I can't get the vehicle running.
Just posting some pics of what I did this evening. My dad and I spent the majority of the day scratching out heads and probing the harness with a voltmeter. We didn't make any head way because we were using a haynes manual from the autoparts store. SO Iwen to alldatadiy.com and paid the 25 bucks for a complete 1994 jeep cherokee service manual. What a difference. Turns out that the relays are completely different than the haynes book says and we were looking at the wrong relays thinking they were other things all afternoon.
Definitely worth the 25 bucks to get a year specific set of diagrams.
We are going to make the wiring slightly more complicated than some of the other write ups we are following. For instance that link from the jeepstokers site, they left only the fuses/relays for the fuel pump and the injectors. I plan on running everything through the PDC. This would include things like Starter relay, main power, alternator, fuel pump relay, and well thats pretty much it. Basically I guess they continued to run their old solenoid for main power and starting but that just doesn't make sense when you got a complete harness in front of you.
Here is the basic routing of the harness. I will probably not open the main "fatter" part of the harness to trim out every single unused wire but I will snip off any unused bits that jut from it. The ECM is mounted on the firewall just above the old evap cannister(which I still have to bypass or replace with the 242 one) and I cut most the tabs off the old PDC bracket from the XJ and bent two of the tabs then screwed them into the pass fender well. The injector harness is of course central to the harness and I mounted the MAP sensor just to the right of where the speedo cable goes through the firewall. I have alot of slack on both the PDC side and the ECM side But no biggie. Hopefully when its all said and done I can tuck it all away nicely so it looks like it could of been stock. You can also see my fuel injection hose that is coming up from the pass frame rail. This took 3 ft of line and is just enough to make it to the feed line. I will install my fuel pump and regulator tomorrow.
Brain Box
PDC
I put a PDU in my 77 for the headlights and electric cooling fan and anything else that comes up. The only "high current " I have on the inside of the fire wall is the heater fan.
Fuel delivery and A/Cs just confuse me I guess.
