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4.0 Head, MPFI, and Serpentine on my 82 258

4.0 Head, MPFI, and Serpentine on my 82 258
Dad took a video of it. The quality sucks but it gets the point across. I am surprised that it isn't ridiculously loud considering it is just a header and no exhaust pipe right now.

th_MVI_0211.webp

Also here is a pic of the Fuel pump and the diz
IMG_0209.webpIMG_0207.webp
 
Something tells me it may be a bit louder when you get it above idle.;)

On your fuel pump and filter it looks like you went from the tank to filter to pump? I was thinking the filter followed the pump?
 
Something tells me it may be a bit louder when you get it above idle.;)

On your fuel pump and filter it looks like you went from the tank to filter to pump? I was thinking the filter followed the pump?

Negative Ghost Rider, you need a filter down stream of your pump to keep debris from getting into it. Some people run a filter before the pump and one near the intake but I find that to be redundant.
 
This is an excerpt from the mopar instruction manual....

INSTALL FUEL PUMP AS FOLLOWS:
13A. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and place on jack stands. From under the
vehicle looking to the rear you will notice a cross member in the frame above
and behind the axle housing. On the driver's side of this cross member you
will notice a rubber block with three (3) flexible fuel lines emerging from it.
The lines turn 90 degrees toward the frame and are connected to hard lines with
clamps. On the flange of the cross member are three (3) bolts that attach the
fuel tank skid pan to the cross member.
13B. Remove the center bolt.
13C. Disconnect the center fuel line from its hard line at the clamp.
Reconnect this flexible line to the inlet of the new fuel pump assembly using
the same clamp.
13D. Mount the fuel pump assembly to the cross member flange using the nut
and lock washer. 13E. Connect the 5/16" flexible line coming off the new fuel pump assembly to
the fuel filter inlet line, with the clamp provided, and the fuel filter outlet
to the center hard line of the original fuel line

Apparently theres more than one way to skin a cat. I also have a new pickup filter in my tank that I fabed from super fine s.s. mech that resembles the stock plastic affair but won't fall apart like the original.
 
This is an excerpt from the mopar instruction manual....

INSTALL FUEL PUMP AS FOLLOWS:
13A. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and place on jack stands. From under the
vehicle looking to the rear you will notice a cross member in the frame above
and behind the axle housing. On the driver's side of this cross member you
will notice a rubber block with three (3) flexible fuel lines emerging from it.
The lines turn 90 degrees toward the frame and are connected to hard lines with
clamps. On the flange of the cross member are three (3) bolts that attach the
fuel tank skid pan to the cross member.
13B. Remove the center bolt.
13C. Disconnect the center fuel line from its hard line at the clamp.
Reconnect this flexible line to the inlet of the new fuel pump assembly using
the same clamp.
13D. Mount the fuel pump assembly to the cross member flange using the nut
and lock washer. 13E. Connect the 5/16" flexible line coming off the new fuel pump assembly to
the fuel filter inlet line, with the clamp provided, and the fuel filter outlet
to the center hard line of the original fuel line

Apparently theres more than one way to skin a cat. I also have a new pickup filter in my tank that I fabed from super fine s.s. mech that resembles the stock plastic affair but won't fall apart like the original.
I wouldn't trust your pickup filter 100 % its not going to affect anything if you place the filter before or after the pump(either way you are still filtering the gas) If I were you I would still put the filter before the pump. Better to play it safe than to have the pump prematurely fail because something got inside it.:chug:
 
I wouldn't trust your pickup filter 100 % its not going to affect anything if you place the filter before or after the pump(either way you are still filtering the gas) If I were you I would still put the filter before the pump. Better to play it safe than to have the pump prematurely fail because something got inside it.:chug:
The pumps don't have great suction strength and I believe that is the reason others install the filter downstream the pump(pressure side), I think the critical part to protect is the injector myself.
Intank fuel pumps are protected by a filter sock only but what it boils down to for me is the condition of your fuel tank, I know mine is rust free and clean because I removed it and cleaned out what minimal debris it had and replaced the strainer on the pickup tube with AMC 304 s.s. mesh #325 (has 325 openings per square inch) that is much finer than a nylon stocking.
 
The pumps don't have great suction strength and I believe that is the reason others install the filter downstream the pump(pressure side), I think the critical part to protect is the injector myself.
Intank fuel pumps are protected by a filter sock only but what it boils down to for me is the condition of your fuel tank, I know mine is rust free and clean because I removed it and cleaned out what minimal debris it had and replaced the strainer on the pickup tube with AMC 304 s.s. mesh #325 (has 325 openings per square inch) that is much finer than a nylon stocking.

Interesting what PSI is your pump. Mine is the hesco model and pumps at 90 something psi. It may just be the proximity to the tank. The hesco instructions said to install em in that order and since it is close to the tank there is no real issue with gettin prime plus it protects the pump and the injectors.

Alot of guys install the pump on frame rail which I don't think is the best place for it because it would strain the pump to get prime.

Sounds like we got two different means to an end lol.
 
Maybe it's more personal preference then? Hesco says tank-filter-pump?
I can see the advantage of that if it's no concern to the pump one way or the other.
My kit is due tomorrow and not sure what pump it is but Hesco designed the Mopar system I"m told say maybe the same.
 
FYI...My Mopar kit came in last night and still sorting thru pieces but they did make some changes from earlier kits and it involves what we have been talking about, They now use a pre filter from the tank then to the elec. fuel pump then to a fuel pressure regulator w/built in post filter.
The regulator has the retun to tank line coming from it and everthing is mounted ahead of the fuel tank on the cross member as before.
So now the return line along the driver frame rail from the engine bay is eliminated, they have added another filter and moved or added the regulator(I think it was on the fuel rail previous)?

Can't wait to get started but I have to wait till after work today.:(
 
FYI...My Mopar kit came in last night and still sorting thru pieces but they did make some changes from earlier kits and it involves what we have been talking about, They now use a pre filter from the tank then to the elec. fuel pump then to a fuel pressure regulator w/built in post filter.
The regulator has the retun to tank line coming from it and everthing is mounted ahead of the fuel tank on the cross member as before.
So now the return line along the driver frame rail from the engine bay is eliminated, they have added another filter and moved or added the regulator(I think it was on the fuel rail previous)?

Can't wait to get started but I have to wait till after work today.:(
By pre filter do you mean one inside the tank or one like how I have it?
 
Breather installed and a better video
th_MVI_0215.webp
 
Dad solved the issue of getting the main feed line to fit the 4.0 PS pump and the 82 cj ps box. Basically just Cut the CJ line mid way and did the same with a 4.0 line and then he got a barbed hose connector and hose clamps. I didn't think it would work but so far he says he has not experienced any leaks.
IMG_0232.webp
 
The homemade high pressure line did not work but the hose from an 88 yj worked perfectly.
IMG_0241.webp
IMG_0242.webp
 
Video of idle with the new exhaust pipe. I had to look hard to tell the serp was even moving ( I really think it is super slick:rolleyes:) Dad also got a shot of the voltmeter and as you can see the meter is sitting at 14 which impresses me because before it stayed around 13 but the xj alty is from a 91 xj so its anywhere from 90- 120 amps compared to the 80 amp stocker SI style. I may drop in the pic in pull and pull a ZJ 133 amp alt when I go to alabama to get the CJ
th_MVI_0243.webp
 
My greatest concern is I can not find new 7/16 head bolts anywhere. The only ones I can find is 1/2 and I am worries the used 7/16 from my block will snap when I torque them in place

I don't think using the old head bolts is a big concern. Around 1997, engine builders went to a "Torque + Yield" head bolt design. These are the ones you're not supposed to re-use. The 7/16 head bolts on your engine are older than that and are not designed the same way. I've built hundreds of older Chevy, Pontiac, Cat, Cummins, and Detroit engines. I have only replaced the head bolts when there has been a visible problem with them.
 
I don't think using the old head bolts is a big concern. Around 1997, engine builders went to a "Torque + Yield" head bolt design. These are the ones you're not supposed to re-use. The 7/16 head bolts on your engine are older than that and are not designed the same way. I've built hundreds of older Chevy, Pontiac, Cat, Cummins, and Detroit engines. I have only replaced the head bolts when there has been a visible problem with them.

Well cool thanks for that.. A little after the fact for me but hopefully someone reading this will know :D
 
Well guys and girls I am proud to report that I drove my CJ for the first time since the head and MPFI were installed.

Man it was sweet!!!! I had some problems pop up like I had forgotten to integrate the YJ brake switch into my harness, my key cylinder stopped returning from the start position and has to be moved to on manually but nothing too major.

If it werent for a belt squeak which reared its head and the fact I havent sealed up the brow of my hard top the cockpit would have been pretty darn quite.

Infact for the first 20 or so minutes I kept thinking the truck died on me when I would come to stops because once the brow noise stopped it seemed to quite. We arent talking new car quite but remember I DD a 88 Wagoneer so it was pretty quite for my standards lol.:chug:
 
how does it start cold? and hows the power?

congats to ya. I cant wait till I can get mine converted.:chug:
 
Even though i have no plans for doing what you have, i've been watching.
Great story, good to see the guy finally kiss the gal after all the highs, & lows.

Beers on me. :chug:
 
Well its on Alabama so the coldest start has been in the 60s but no issues starting. Huge difference over cold carb starts. Just start it and drive it.
 

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