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74 cj5 rear axle swapout

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74 cj5 rear axle swapout
O

old yeller

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waco texas
<div class="bbWrapper">I&#039;m looking for some info on replacing the rear axle assembly. I have a Danna 44 and I am would like to know what rear ends are compatible with mine. it&#039;s basically stock. 36 inch tires, 304 v8. My off road usage is light to medium so I don&#039;t have to upgrade to anything fancy. I would mine replacing it with another Danna 44 but I&#039;m not seeing alot of the used Danna 44 online. any suggestions or help ??</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">The cj is unique in the width of the rear axle. You are going to have to fine a replacement from another cj. <br /> What&#039;s wrong with the rear you have now?</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">the inner differential bearing on the passenger side came apart. The rollers are were actually in the bottom of the diff housing. gears look ok. i have one chipped tooth on the ring gear. i believe this would require a rebuild....which is outside my skill level. I know you have to pull the axle and the gear assy to replace that bearing. not how that would effect the shim stack-up. probably need to replace the drivers side as well etc. I know having a shop do the rebuild is pricy and it&#039;s hard to find someone with Jeep experience.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I would have to say your options are limited and used will have more miles that you do and be of questionable dependability. <br /> <br /> If it were me I would be talking to some gear shops. I have had work done at Dallas gear and was not disappointed by the work. They had no Idea what an OX locker was and required a bit of schooling on that.<br /> <br /> I would pull the axle myself and even dismantle it myself. I would also find a place to have it hot tanked to be sure that there were no trace of shrapnel in the case.<br /> <br /> Axles are a lot of work, axles are expensive, Axles are something you want to do just once.<br /> <br /> If it makes you feel some better your axle is most definitely worth rebuilding. I hunted for some time to find one just like it, paid good money for it and then replaced everything but the axles, carrier and the case.<img src="/community/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /><br /> <br /> <a href="http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/1/9/3/img_0578.jpg" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeep-cj.com%2Fgallery%2Ffiles%2F1%2F1%2F9%2F3%2Fimg_0578.jpg&amp;hash=ebc4afe34b70123c207aa9bf51d9d42c" rel="nofollow ugc noopener"><img src="" data-url="http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/1/9/3/img_0578_thumb.jpg" class="bbImage " style="" width="" height="" /></a> <a href="http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/1/9/3/img_0617.jpg" target="_blank" class="link link--external" data-proxy-href="/community/proxy.php?link=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeep-cj.com%2Fgallery%2Ffiles%2F1%2F1%2F9%2F3%2Fimg_0617.jpg&amp;hash=a3cdb0328f87a2ec9d2b6e97f4f735de" rel="nofollow ugc noopener"><img src="" data-url="http://www.jeep-cj.com/gallery/files/1/1/9/3/img_0617_thumb.jpg" class="bbImage " style="" width="" height="" /></a><br /> <br /> You don&#039;t even want to know how much I spent on this axle.<img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f644.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":rolleyes:" title="Roll eyes :rolleyes:" data-smilie="11"data-shortname=":rolleyes:" /><div style="text-align: left"><span style="color: #000000"><br /> I posted this reply twice, once here and once in introductions.<img src="/community/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /><br /> </span>&#8203;</div></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">The shim pack would stay the same with new bearings as long as you didn&#039;t change the ring &amp; pinion. All the shop would be doing is pressing the bearings off and on, as long as you took it apart. Not that hard of a job to pull the carrier &amp; ring gear.<br /> If you look for a different axle assembly you will have to look for one with the same gear ratio and than it might need to be rebuilt.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">The chipped tooth is troubling. the clearance is so tight and the pressure so great on the r&amp;p that any speck of high carbon, hardened steel in between teeth can cause damage in a short time. <img src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f60e.png" class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" width="64" height="64" alt=":cool:" title="Cool :cool:" data-smilie="6"data-shortname=":cool:" /><br /> <br /> reusing the R&amp;p would not bother me, After a die pen test, but I would want that housing and carrier to be clean enough to eat out of.<br /> <br /> Differential soup anyone??</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper"><blockquote data-attributes="member: 397" data-quote="Old Dog" data-source="post: 455863" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-title"> <a href="/community/goto/post?id=455863" class="bbCodeBlock-sourceJump" rel="nofollow" data-xf-click="attribution" data-content-selector="#post-455863">Old Dog said:</a> </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-content"> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandContent js-expandContent "> The shim pack would stay the same with new bearings as long as you didn&#039;t change the ring &amp; pinion. All the shop would be doing is pressing the bearings off and on, as long as you took it apart. Not that hard of a job to pull the carrier &amp; ring gear.<br /> If you look for a different axle assembly you will have to look for one with the same gear ratio and than it might need to be rebuilt. </div> <div class="bbCodeBlock-expandLink js-expandLink"><a role="button" tabindex="0"><span style="color:orange">Click to expand...</span></a></div> </div> </blockquote> <br /> <img src="/community/data/assets/smilies/agree2.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":agree:" title="agree :agree:" data-shortname=":agree:" />With that particular problem, its going to be expensive. One might even call it catastrophic failure.<br /> <br /> I wouldn&#039;t try and cheap out on any repair you choose. It&#039;s easy to spend other people&#039;s money, but axles aren&#039;t cheap. As IO said, you don&#039;t what to know what he has spent on that axle.:drool:<br /> The absolute cheapest part to this repair will be the root cause, the bearing. If it takes you some time to collect the funds, I would wait and have it done since you expressed concern for doing it yourself. Getting another and having it re-geared and all will cost WAY MORE than getting yours fixed.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">is that Dallas diff and gear on Pollard st ? I will definetly give them a call. If I take the axle assy to them can they do the hot tank or outsource? I might just have them give me an estimate on the whole thing. thanks for the info</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">ok. that was my main question. a rebuild vs a used rear end. I was leary of getting a used one anyway. I did find a link to some new axles assemblies at east coast gear supply but the CJ fit was $1350 and I wasn&#039;t sure about the width. plus they had a disclaimer for off road use only. not sure why. thanks for the info</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I think my problems are going to be compounded. with that 1 bearing gone the shaft may have been damaged on the passeneger side. I think all the shaft bearings will have to be replaced. sounds like the axle assy housing will need to be dipped in a tank. I assume the pinion shaft, bearing and assy would have to be removed for this process. what do think a good ball park number is for this type of rebuild? assuming 1 axle replacement, all the bearings and seals and that the ring/pinion, plate and gears are ok. just a rough guess ?</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">For good bearings a master kit for the diff is $150 ish and the axle bearings around $70. A new rear axle could be $100 to 250 depending on what you get. That&#039;s parts only.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I found a couple of different shops under Dallas Gear. Did you use Dallas Differential and Gear on Pollard St? I&#039;d like to give them a call tomorrow. I did some more inspection over the weekend and I found a ding on the Pinion gear that matches the one on the ring. when you pull the axles is it best to have the assy stilled attached? I&#039;m worried if the assy has been removed and the axles are stubborn or froze that I won&#039;t have anything to pull agianst and the whole thing will slide. this would be my fisrt time pulling axles. thanks in advance</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">Yes I would leave it under the jeep while you remove the axles.<br /> I would take the carrier and gears out after you have the housing out from under the jeep and on a bench.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">do i need to mark the axle spline orientation/position in relation to the gears. do they need to go back in exact same place on the gear when re-installed?</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">No, the splined end can go any where,<br /> The carrier bearing caps (both top and right and left) need to be marked though so that they go the same place.</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">is there a certian puller that I want to look for? I think I&#039;m going to have trouble removing the axles. i think all the rear end components are the OEM&#039;s....about 40 years old</div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">The axles are not usually hard to pull. I have always removed the brakes and put the drum on backwards with 5 or 6 threads of the lug nuts. slide the drum in and pull it out rapidly and the axle should pop out. Don;t forget to pull the bearing retainer bolts from the flange.<img src="/community/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":D" title="Grin :D" data-shortname=":D" /></div>
 
<div class="bbWrapper">I talked with the gear shop today. got a general quote for worse case senerio. not as bad as I thought. all it takes is time and money....</div>
 
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