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'85 Spring Special starting help

'85 Spring Special starting help

Maracer

Jeeper
Posts
50
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Location
Marion, Tx
Vehicle(s)
'85 CJ7 Spring Special
started for the first time in 31 yrs on 10/23/16
258, mc2100, HEI, Hedman header
All, I'm currently the proud new to me owner of a Spring Special, and while doing my body off resto, I decided to go ahead and get it started (at least), so that I could move forward with knowing that I could tune a bit later on. So, AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l , stock intake, but with an MC2100, HEI disti and installing a new header this weekend. Stock exhaust is currently on. I currently use a homemade starting panel (keyed ignition switch and emergency on/off power) , wired to the starter solenoid and HEI. I bring in a battery (out of my daily driving car, or bring the whole car to the jeep most of the time) and notice that I can barely turn over the engine. I have double checked the HEI install items (phase etc) and verified that I have spark on the compression stroke for each cylinder, but cant get her fired up. I can 'prime' the carb easily to make sure that fuel is getting into the intake. Is it possible to simply not have enough cold cranking amp (CCA) to turn over the engine fast enough? I have had a few puffs of black smoke (exhaust I presume) come through the tail pipe and through the carb as well. I'm sure there will be more info needed. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
What I am getting from your description, is that you can't get enough power to the CJ to start it up. You could just have an issue with connections. Like a weak connection with the jumper cables, at the battery or poor battery terminal clamps or cables. CCAs for your vehicle should be in the range of 450.
 
What I am getting from your description, is that you can't get enough power to the CJ to start it up. You could just have an issue with connections. Like a weak connection with the jumper cables, at the battery or poor battery terminal clamps or cables. CCAs for your vehicle should be in the range of 450.

Thanks Torx...I figured it had to be kinda low, but right now I can easily count off 3 or 4 seconds before all 6 cylinders go through the full cycle. Proved it when I had the valve cover off and checking for compression stroke for the HEI spark. Just now turnin fast enough...Lol, I can fix that.
 
wow thats slow. how big is your battery and battery cables? should be at least 4 gauge need a good ground on motor.
 
wow thats slow. how big is your battery and battery cables? should be at least 4 gauge need a good ground on motor.

Gert, I though about the cable thing too. Although they are 2 gauge, the copper ends are old and worn (had 'em for a while), so I'll prolly pick up a new set just to have. As for the battery in my DD, I'll have to check. Thought it'd do the trick for sure tho. Obviously not. I'll have to get a buddy to come over and help so we can check voltages etc as it cranks. Perhaps the HEI isn't getting full voltage and same for starter much less the amperage. Although the 450 CCA should do the trick, couldn't hurt to have something in the range of 800 CCA ;-)
 
What battery are you using? How old is the battery?
450CCA ain't much for start'n a car engine.
LG
 
What battery are you using? How old is the battery?

450CCA ain't much for start'n a car engine.

LG



Ya I was thinking same thing I think my Harley has a bigger battery lol, I prefer as much CCA as I can fit in the battery tray, I have run out of battery cranking several motors before


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Ok, so I literally just went to check and the DD has a 600 CCA battery, all be it 6 years old.


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Ok, so I literally just went to check and the DD has a 600 CCA battery, all be it 6 years old.


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600 CCA is good as long as its a good battery, 6 year old batterys are at the end of their life span however
 
:agree:
Get a new & FRESH 600+CCA battery and give it a go.
LG
 
c65cba4a0898bb6a5e7801d861a27553.webp
Weekend project along with a new battery!


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Sweet that will give it a little bark :chug:
 
Do be prepared for higher underhood temps with those headers.
LG
 
Thankfully, this particular jeep will be mostly utilized as a cruiser. Perhaps to work and back, but not a lot of stationary engine use. But yeah, I'm keepin it in the back of my head that they run 'warm'


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Did you ever get the Jeep started? :confused:
I would like to hear your thoughts about these headers, after you have them installed. Think many here could learn from what you are doing.
Good luck,
LG
 
LG, not yet. Getting a stronger battery this weekend. In disassembly, cleaning, trying to start, I noticed the major crack in the stock exhaust down pipe. Where the exhaust manifold connects to the down pipe. Hence the header upgrade. Trying to start a 30 yo engine for the first time is tough especially without the exhaust attached, so I stopped working on getting it started until I have some semblance of an exhaust.


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When was the last time this engine ran?
Have you removed the spark plugs and tried to turn the engine with a wrench on the crankshaft pulley nut? I would do this BEFORE using the starter to turn the engine.
Also, what does it look like under the dizzy cap? Are the contacts clean etc?
If not-DO so. Also squirt some oil into the spark plug openings to lube the cyl walls and turn the engine by hand.
LG
 
LG, before I started to start the engine, I did: removed the intake manifold, removed the spark plugs, changed the oil pan, put a bit of oil down the cylinders from the spark plug hole and from the valve cover opening. I turned over the engine by wrench at the crankshaft nut. Dizzy is now an HEI unit. This particular jeep spent its life in El Paso, Tx where it sat after being wrecked with only 12k miles on it in 1986. The El Paso sand was pretty much every where, thus removing the intake-yes there was sand in the intake, not a lot, but some. No sand in the combustion chambers or in the oil pan. When I replaced the oil pan I had to be very observant of the bottom of the engine looking for any signs of scarring, metal or sand. Nothing was found to be any issue. I will say though, the Texas sun did a good job on the exposed paint, but also kept it dry. There is literally 5% rust on the entire jeep and zero on the body. Mostly on the brakes and exhaust components, little on some other exposed surfaces. Been a real blessing to find this original Spring Special even though I'm not restoring to factory.


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Good to hear this. How easy was the engine to turn over with the s'plugs out?
LG
 
It was easy, I mean not like twirl it with your finger, but with a 15" handle I could turn it with out having to put my full weight behind it. Very difficult with plugs in, which leads to potentially good compression still


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