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Anybody know what the amperage draw on the headlights is?

Anybody know what the amperage draw on the headlights is?
ThisGuyUKnow said:
Yes I am going to use one of those from a cherokee. It could in theory be any vehicle on the market. Im not sure what you mean by the crimps? are you talking about the connections for the relays? some cherokees and YJ have more relays than others due to different accessories.

I am going to take that pdc and rewire it up so that I have my 2 fan relays, fuel pump relay, and head lamp relays if there is room. I am then going to use the starter relay in the PDC to fire my starter (I have a mini torque with built in solenoid) and use the pdc's main power connection to the alternator and completely eliminate the fender solenoid. all my fuses for the fuel injectors, fuel pump, ecm etc will be in the pdc.
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Universal GM Chrysler Ford Female Terminal Connector 14 12 AWG 50 Pack - The Repair Connector Store


It could be these but I doubt it. the relays and the fuses have crimp fittings at the inside end of the wire, you can get them out, if you can find the right tool. Terminals are available someplace that would allow you to put your preferred length, color and gauge of wire and re insert it into the plastic pig tail block. Eliminate a splice you don't have to splice a 14 to a 12 or worse yet a 12 to a 14 just because that is what you have. Have you decided what you want to power through this PDC and how many circuits you will need? I can real easy think of 3 circuits for the lights. Then there is the fuel pump and electric fan maybe?
How many does that PDC have?
 
IOPort51 said:
Universal GM Chrysler Ford Female Terminal Connector 14 12 AWG 50 Pack - The Repair Connector Store


It could be these but I doubt it. the relays and the fuses have crimp fittings at the inside end of the wire, you can get them out, if you can find the right tool. Terminals are available someplace that would allow you to put your preferred length, color and gauge of wire and re insert it into the plastic pig tail block. Eliminate a splice you don't have to splice a 14 to a 12 or worse yet a 12 to a 14 just because that is what you have. Have you decided what you want to power through this PDC and how many circuits you will need? I can real easy think of 3 circuits for the lights. Then there is the fuel pump and electric fan maybe?
How many does that PDC have?
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it could be those say ford gm and chrysler wish it wasnt a 20 dollar experiment to find out
 
ThisGuyUKnow said:
it could be those say ford gm and chrysler wish it wasnt a 20 dollar experiment to find out
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first thing is to get one out without destroying the plastic. Looking at it and comparing the pictures would shorten the odds quite a bit.
 
ThisGuyUKnow said:
Is the engine harness on your scrap Cherokee intact? If so Ill take the harness off your hands, I have been trying to collect up harnesses to thin out for 4.0 Injection conversions.
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As far as I know it is. I have been thinking about keeping it myself for the same reason. Its a renix based engine if that makes any difference on the wiring.
 
Jimbos76cj said:
As far as I know it is. I have been thinking about keeping it myself for the same reason. Its a renix based engine if that makes any difference on the wiring.
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Yeah It does, I hear those arent good for Injection Swaps but I could help you out if you decide to use it.
 
Use heavy wire #10 or #12 to provide power to the relay. This will avoid excessive voltage drop which is the main problem in a 12V system. The wire will handle much more current, but only fuse it for the actual load. In this case a 15A fuse will provide the current you need for the lights and give protection in the case of a short.

It is likely that the ground return wire is ok from the grille. However, I would recommend that you run a #10 ground wire on each side to the frame. This ensures a solid ground. Sand the paint to bare metal, use a star washer, and bond it securely.

Of course, you need to verify that you have a solid frame and engine connection to battery ground as well. I also run a large wire with star washers to the body tub.

Good Luck
 
johnbilt said:
Use heavy wire #10 or #12 to provide power to the relay. This will avoid excessive voltage drop which is the main problem in a 12V system. The wire will handle much more current, but only fuse it for the actual load. In this case a 15A fuse will provide the current you need for the lights and give protection in the case of a short.

It is likely that the ground return wire is ok from the grille. However, I would recommend that you run a #10 ground wire on each side to the frame. This ensures a solid ground. Sand the paint to bare metal, use a star washer, and bond it securely.

Of course, you need to verify that you have a solid frame and engine connection to battery ground as well. I also run a large wire with star washers to the body tub.

Good Luck
Click to expand...

John, I am going to say it again and again, 10 ga is just too big for this application. You want to build ckts to be slightly stronger than the what you will be pushing through them. When looking at the power requirements for the headlamps 14ga is rated for over twice the power that the headlamps need at those lengths. In my application in my vehicle I am going to use 14ga. If you want to use 10 ga for all your power needs then go ahead but there is a reason why you dont find 10ga wire power the headlamps in stock vehicles. If anything I would use no more than 12 gauge.

I do not like to use a larger ga than I need in my applications for a few reasons. The first is that I like to avoid relying on any crimp style connections. The heavier gauge the wire, the harder it is to get a good soldered connection. Imagine trying to solder to two 10 ga wires together vs an 18ga. Second, I have started building 4.0 conversion harnesses and in those and all my applications I try to make the setup appear like it could be a factory setup. If you went with 10ga wire for everything, sure you can be sure that you never ever will exceed the capacity of that wire, your harness loom will start becoming unnecessarily bulky.

I dont have a ground issue at my grill, I checked the resistance between the grill and the bat and it has a very good connection. That being said, if i did start seeing ground issues, I would do as you suggested and run grounding straps to the body panels before I ran a single ground all the way back to the battery.
 
IOPort51 said:
Universal GM Chrysler Ford Female Terminal Connector 14 12 AWG 50 Pack - The Repair Connector Store


It could be these but I doubt it. the relays and the fuses have crimp fittings at the inside end of the wire, you can get them out, if you can find the right tool. Terminals are available someplace that would allow you to put your preferred length, color and gauge of wire and re insert it into the plastic pig tail block. Eliminate a splice you don't have to splice a 14 to a 12 or worse yet a 12 to a 14 just because that is what you have. Have you decided what you want to power through this PDC and how many circuits you will need? I can real easy think of 3 circuits for the lights. Then there is the fuel pump and electric fan maybe?
How many does that PDC have?
Click to expand...

Grabbed a PDC from the jy today here are pics of the relay connectors... They dont look like the ones you linked unfortunately. I would really like to find some of these.

I loaded pics of the connectors.
 
ThisGuyUKnow said:
Grabbed a PDC from the jy today here are pics of the relay connectors... They dont look like the ones you linked unfortunately. I would really like to find some of these.

I loaded pics of the connectors.
Click to expand...


Picture of the end please??:D
 
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