Attempt #3 on Dana 30

[Scout1067]

Well, Monday I will try attempt #3 at replacing the U-Joints on my front axle shafts. This will be the third size U-Joints I have purchased. If they fit this is definitely going into my log book so I don't have to go through this again. Luckily, at this point I am so experienced at pulling my front hubs apart that I could probably set some kind of record and maybe even do it blindfolded like I could my old M-4 and current AR clone or my 1911.

 

[Belizean]

I would rather be working on the last 3 on the work bench. Are they sending the wrong ones or are you working on an oddball ?

 

[Scout1067]

I think it has just taken me forever to get my research right and figure out which are the proper u-joints. AFAIK my front axles are still the stock axle shafts but I have had issues getting the correct size u-joints. I will find out this afternoon. It is high time too as my u-joints are starting to knock something fierce on turns.

 

[Scout1067]

Well, I finally got around to putting the axle shaft u-joints in. 3rd time was the charm. I used Moog 365 greaseless u-joints. The old ones were totally dry, I am actually amazing that all they did was knock slightly in turns. They were so rusted into the ears I had to use a press to get them out. Luckily, a friend owns an auto shop and he let me use his press.

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[Belizean]

And you went back to greaseless ?

 

[Scout1067]

And you went back to greaseless ?

[emoji23], Yeah the zerks on the joints aren't easy to get to at all. Plus, I figured Moog u-joints should be good for a while anyway.

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[RiverandSand]

It's a trade-off strength verses the ability to grease the cups. The greaseable style are inherently weaker due to the passages drilled into the joint.

 

[TeamRush]

It's a trade-off strength verses the ability to grease the cups. The greaseable style are inherently weaker due to the passages drilled into the joint.

With respect, that depends entirely on the way the 'U' joint is lubricated...
*IF* the joint body is drilled (in the side of the '+') it CAN weaken the joint.
Using a side drilled 'U' joint this small is pretty well pointless, I don't know what happened to my write up on these joints but I show how difficult it is to reach the grease zerk with a side drilled joint body.

If the 'Arms' are drilled, it's quite simple to drill a bearing cap, a non-load bearing surface, and lubricate the joint.
Considering where the joint is, and how difficult it is to reach a body drilled grease zerk, this about optimum if you insist on lubrication.
There is plenty of clearance for a threaded plug in the cap, which can be swapped for a grease zerk when lubricating the joint.
(Highway prowlers and mall crawlers can leave the zerk in place, not much chance of winding anything up around the axle and breaking the zerk off)

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[emoji23], Yeah the zerks on the joints aren't easy to get to at all. Plus, I figured Moog u-joints should be good for a while anyway.

If you have seen my write up on 'U' joints, the Spicer (original factory issue) 'U' joint came out stronger on all counts at the time of that writing.
Even the $350 each "Unbreakable" joints didn't stand up to the same abuse the factory Spicer joints did.
The 'Unbreakable' joints would take more In-Line shock loading,
But we aren't popping a clutch while drag racing in a straight line and when the joint is in a bind (side loaded) when the wheels are turned the Spicer lived longer.

It's up to you what you want to use,
And most complaints about "Spicer" 'U' joints were either 25+ year old factory joints,
Or China made 'Knock-Off' joints...

Buy from a Spicer dealer, not an 'on-line' random retailer to get real, actual Spicer joints.

You *Might* also want to consider the 'U' joint is a 'Torque Fuse'...
When you front wheels are in a bind (very few adjust wheel stops for taller/wider/higher traction tires),
The 'U' joint will break BEFORE you stretch/break the yoke eyes on the axle ends.
This allows you to replace joints instead of axles.

It's all in how you want to do things,
Many of the factory joints lasted 20 years or more, and that's pretty good service life out of a 'Consumable' part.

 

[73AMC360]

Steel is stronger than grease.