axle swap advice needed

[Munypit]

Getting ready to install the BDS 4 inch lift and the new 35 inch tires. I know I need to upgrade the gears to turn the tires but I don't know which way to go. Been reading posts over the last 4 months on axle swaps. I can't decide whether to rebuild th 20/30 combo or upgrade to something else. ( can't seem to find any axles with 4.10 gears with in 1,000 miles) to do a direct swap. Parts alone to upgrade the 20 is well over $1300 and the 30 is $700 plus labor. I don't know enough about differentials to even attempt to do it myself. ( Also don't want a tire and axle to pass me with my kids in the jeep. When I look up axle swaps, most go to Dana 44 's but I have not seen in any of the posts where they addressed steering changes or what has to be done to drive shafts. Any advice is very much appreciated.

 

[Torxhead]

Yeah, I think 35s are a bit much for oem gears. So you can put it all together and go from there or try to get a smaller set of tires.

 

[Old Dog]

I believe 35's are max for the 20/30. 33's would be safer.
Up-grading to stronger axles means you will have to narrow something or go wider, probably cost a few bucks more but I think 36's are max for a 44 so not a lot of strength difference.

 

[Old Dog]

Parts alone to upgrade the 20 is well over $1300 and the 30 is $700 plus labor. I don't know enough about differentials to even attempt to do it myself.

May I ask what you are getting for parts with that money.

 

[Munypit]

Ected locker with bearings, Yukon 1 piece axle kit, 4.10 ring and pinion.

 

[73CJ]

I'm running OEM Dana 44 rear and a Waggy front Dana 44 . I still break hardened axle shaft with 38s. Oh Well. I know when I'm pushing it to the edge every time.

Usually during jumps.

Gonna play you're gonna pay.

 

[gert]

Getting ready to install the BDS 4 inch lift and the new 35 inch tires. I know I need to upgrade the gears to turn the tires but I don't know which way to go. Been reading posts over the last 4 months on axle swaps. I can't decide whether to rebuild th 20/30 combo or upgrade to something else. ( can't seem to find any axles with 4.10 gears with in 1,000 miles) to do a direct swap. Parts alone to upgrade the 20 is well over $1300 and the 30 is $700 plus labor. I don't know enough about differentials to even attempt to do it myself. ( Also don't want a tire and axle to pass me with my kids in the jeep. When I look up axle swaps, most go to d44's but I have not seen in any of the posts where they addressed steering changes or what has to be done to drive shafts. Any advice is very much appreciated.

35s are definitely near the max of the AMC20 /Dana 30 combo. If you are looking at axle swaps you need to be aware that you will spend more money than you are looking at for beefing up what you have now. However…. a Dana 44 front and a 9" rear would be a great combo narrowed to fit but you still have to pay to have them narrowed. I am in the process of trying to get my Dana 44 and and Dodge 9.25 narrowed for my CJ7 to fit my 35s I am on hold til I get home because it looks like I am going to have to mail them off as none of my local shops will do it for a decent price, but when its done it will be the last axles that I will have to build

 

[Jimbos76cj]

what kind of parts are you looking to put into the AMC20 that will run $1300? A set of one peice shafts should run around $300. a truss shoul be no more then $200. If your inluding the cost of the gers in that number take it out since you will have to pay to regear any axle. If your putting a locker in it you will need to add a truss. The stock tubes and housing will seperate with all the torque being put down.

I think i post this one another post. Look into a ford 8.8. The bolt pattern is different then the cj axle but you can buy shafts with the 5x5.5 pattern. They already have disc brakes, can be found easily with LSD and 4:10 gears, are close to the right width. The disc have built in e brakes that are easy to adapt. The tubes diameter is 3".. its a very stout axle and can be found for about $450 for a really clean unit. The spring perches need to be relocated but that will have to be done with any non jeep CJ axle you install.

 

[Old Dog]

With 35's I would also want to beef up the Dana 30 with aftermarket shafts that take the larger Dana 44 u-joints. Better yet get the 30 spline shafts and a new locker to match and now you almost have a 44.

 

[poppatello]

It depends on how much money you have vs how crafty you are. I've heard all the stories up and down the trails. They say the AMC20 is beefier and has better size gears then the Dana 44 . The tubes just need to be welded and if running tires bigger then 33's you should truss the axle (this is what I have done). It's cheaper.

You can swap out the whole rear axle for off the wall 1 tons from god knows where and make them work. Then you can brag about it on the trails. I vote for the simple things. I'm not to crafty. I pay others to customize things for me and it sucks.

But then again, I also like to hear from folks that have done what I'm looking to do. Not be told it can't be done or I'm making a mistake by those that haven't done it.

Folks tell you that you will need to change the rear axle or you will break things. I have friends that have broken some of the strongest 1 ton axles out there by doing easy stupid things or just driving down the road. I have friends that have done the same with stock axles. I also have friends that have done some amazing things with stock drivelines that you would your pants if you saw it. I truly think it's all in how you take care of it.

Personally I can't vouch for it as I haven't run what I want yet but this is my plan. Truss the AMC20 , welded the tubes. One piece Axles (Yoken is over priced if you ask me) 4:56 or 4:88 gears depend on the cheapest (4:88 is coming out 15 dollars cheaper then 4:56) with a spool. I think you will be fine with the AMC20 . Advice is great don't get me wrong, but do your own research with the advice giving from others and go from there...

 

[davey25]

In my old CJ5 I ran a 9 inch from a early bronco..pretty much went right in..and a wide track Dana 30 ... 33's ran it quite hard..and a 350 hp 360 in it ...411's..T-18 ..never broke it once...I didn't crank the steering and floor it though...could light up all 4 tires no prob and everything held..lots of hard trails too

 

[poppatello]

Sounds awesome if I may say. You were able to match the gear ratios? Also are the axles the same width front n back???

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[davey25]

The difference in width was barely noticeable..the front was just slightly narrower..I can't remember about the gears..

 

[Munypit]

well decided to try the stock set up for a while, just ordered a set of Moser 1 piece axles to correct the po's trail fix on the hub. I have a brand new set of 35 inch tires that are already mounted on my wheels so I really don't want to buy another set of tires. Maybe I can find a wrecked cj somewhere or heaven forbid divorce sale that already has the axle upgrades.

 

[poppatello]

If you truss the axles and weld the tubes I think you will be fine. That's what I did. I am also running 35's. Funny thing is, I always said I would never because I didn't want to be that high but they were cheaper then the 33's believe it or not. I was planning on running 33's or even 34x9's with my 4.5" lift. 35's going up a grade on a hill isn't fun or looking down a valley with inches from the edge...