Body Body door striker area.
justinnesius
Jeeper
What is the best ways to repair this area? How have others went about repairing this area when it has been turned into Swiss cheese. Pics below. Thanks for the help.
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Body Body door striker area.
- Thread starter justinnesius
- Start date Start date:
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- door panel repair restoration rust
TSB8C
Old Time Jeeper
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- 1984 CJ7, 420 HP "ZZ6 EFI" Crate engine, 700R4, D300, Dana30 front, Dana489 rear, 4.56 gears, 4" lift
I've never had that issue, but from a usual body repair viewpoint I would weld in a new piece of sheet metal to replace the missing portion and also weld in a reinforcing "backer" behind it as well.
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- 1986 CJ7 Laredo:
258 w/Howell TBI, HEI Ign., Dana 44 Front w/Detroit, Dana 44 Rear w/Discs & Detroit,
NP435 Trans, Dana 300 T-case w/twin stick
1969 Bronco:
351W, D44 high pinon front from full size, 9” full size rear, NP435 trans and Dana 20
Dang! Looks like termites got to that striker!
If you don’t have a welder (as TSB8C suggested as the best fix), you can pop rivet said backer strip of sheet metal. Obviously space the rivets wider than the position of the 2 machine screws for the actual striker piece.
If you don’t have a welder (as TSB8C suggested as the best fix), you can pop rivet said backer strip of sheet metal. Obviously space the rivets wider than the position of the 2 machine screws for the actual striker piece.
justinnesius
Jeeper
I have a welder and am comfortable with patch panels. But this one makes me nervous with being 2 layers of metal, the notch for the striker, and the bend right on the edge of where I need to weld. I thought my best bet would be to find a donor piece off of another jeep and weld that in rather than fab up a patch. Thanks for the help.
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- Pittsboro, NC
- Vehicle(s)
- 1981 CJ5/258 4.2L I6, Tremec T-176 4-speed, Dana 300, Power Steering, Howell Throttle Body Injection System, Warn Locking Hubs, Warn Rock Crawler front/rear bumper with Tire Swing Carrier, Full Roll Cage, Pro Comp ES9000 shocks
If you don't have a torch/welder, I would bring it over to a machine-fab shop. They could easily cut everything out and patch it with new metal. Maybe a hundred bucks for the whole job.
Last edited:
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