Carbs etc.

[eatdrinkadam]

Jeep peeps,

Ive been tossing around the idea of doing an overhaul of my carburetor on a 1985 Jeep CJ7 4 Cyl.

However, my carb is aged and weathered and I though It would be better to purchase a rebuilt carb and have it replaced:

Jeep Carburetor 2.5L CJ5 CJ6 CJ7 Carter Weber 7705-S - eBay (item 290485953625 end time Jan-07-11 15:07:59 PST)

The carb I have now is a Carter YFA single barrel.. model # 7700.. the carb in the link is the same thing, although the model number is 7705. They look identical and the description says it will fit my model of Jeep.

Do you think there will be any difference?

 

[IOPort51]

If you drive it every day I would say buy the re built but if you have other transport I would buy the $15 kit and give it a try. You will need a couple of other things as well.
What do you have to loose?? rebuilding a carb is fun and when you have done it successfully it's something to feel proud of.

 

[eatdrinkadam]

I drive it occasionally.. However, the Jeep is in very nice condition, and I'd like to replace the carb for longevity & value as well.

 

[elwood blues]

IO makes a good point. For the $20 or so for a rebuild kit you still have the stock oem carburetor and you did the work to it. It's really not that difficult to do and as long as you take your time and lay everything out nice and neatly and follow the direction.

 

[Cheepjeep85]

i'm with the rest of em, give rebuilding it a try, it'll be a good learning experience. they aren't difficult.

 

[mfreezy]

I also have the Carter YFA single barrel.. model # 7700 carb on my 2.5L 4cyl. Last fall the fuel pump went out on the jeep so while I was replacing the pump I went ahead and tried to rebuild the carburetor. I followed the directions that came with the kit and now the throttle won't open when the engine is running. Shut it off and the throttle moves freely. I'm assuming this is some type of vacuum issue. All other linkage when disconnected from the carb moves freely.

I also know when I was setting the needle seat/seal pin the directions showed a part my carburetor didn't have. It was a plate that was under the adjustment screw. I followed the directions as stated in the directions anyway, but that put the adjustment screw all the way in (versus almost all the way out when I opened it up). Would like to make sure it's not something else before I go back and open the carburetor back up....

If anyone's seen this or something similar would appreciate info. I did take a bunch of pictures of the carb parts during the disassemble (in case I need to go back and check... good thing - thought maybe I lost the part, but wasn't in the pics either).

Here's the part as I was taking it out....

 

[mfreezy]

Ok, so tried adjusting this screw back up and didn't make a difference. I guess I'm looking for other opinions what could be causing this. Also, once in a while while running down the road the trottle gets "unstuck" or allows a full throttle movement as it's suppose to.

 

[skituc]

Hey did you ever get your Carb figured out? I've had so much trouble with mine running super rich! I also have a '85 with the 2.5l engine. I'm having a heck of a time getting it set? first I messed up the float setting fixed that, had replaced the "O" ring on the needle valve then it was running good but with a rough idle. I messed with the air/fuel needle again and totally screwed it up again, its running so rich I cant drive it. some one replaced the carb with a rebuild in 2009 so I figured it can't be that bad. Was wondering if you had found any tricks on tuning yours?