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Carburator question

Was that for an Automatic Transmission vehicle? My engine came from an automatic, if it has one can I just remove it? I don't think it does, but there is a lot of linkages and other junk there so I haven't paid much attention.


Pride duth goith before the fall! Man, I look at all these videos and carb. pictures, then I look at my carb./engine. Mine is far to clean and spotless. Looks almost brand new. I've got to stop working on the CJ and go out and get her dirty.
 
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Yes, mine has a GM Turbo 400 ...
But I also do not use it, I discovered that it never has worked :D
I googled and found that it has been used if equipped with AC.
Do not know why mine has it, maybe due to export version?
But it definitely works well without....
 
That's right, you mentioned AC before .... aaannnddd the Wagoneer this thing came from had AC. Once again, I'm at work so the fun starts tonight.
 
Been watching youtube. Saw the Ericthecarguy video and others. Now I'm beginning to fell like I'm getting into the swing of this. Lumpy and others are right, all of the videos say to START with a adjustment of 2.5 turns. One even said that 2.5 turns was a factory setting. Since mine is at ~1 turn she most certainly is too lean to start with. This gives me an excuse to get a vacuum gauge so I believe I will.

Lumpy, the video guys say that you actually don't need to move each at the same time which is good because the drivers side screw with all the vacuum, water hoses, Air pump hoses and spark plug wires in the way is a bear to get to. I only want to deal with it once or so. It looks simple enough.

Warm engine up, now that I have a proper starting place it will be easier.

Install gauge to a vacuum port.

Turn the needle adjustment in or out until the rpm's are at the max ... they will start to fall when the adjustment is to far.

Reset the Idle speed and do the other needle the same way.

Adjust the idle speed and hit the road.

There was no mention of energizing a solenoid, where ever that little devil is.


You MUST adjust BOTH idle-mix screws at the same time to maintain equal balance and flow through the carb. That's basic 'Carb-101' class.
LG
 
Then I guess I'll be failing "Carb 101".

Beside that, Working with a vacuum gauge is going to prove to be the best $25 I've spend in at least the last 20 minutes or so. For instance there was a port that I was convinced wasn't pulling any vacuum. The gauge was hooked up to the port and at idle there was no vacuum, but add a little throttle and there is plenty. The port is a delayed vacuum port. I thought it was, but couldn't feel any suck with my fingers when the engine was throttled up. The gauge proved me wrong. I'm excited to test the other vacuum systems to see how they are doing.

I'm sure I did it wrong, but hey what can I say. It took longer to warm the engine up than it took to make adjustments.

First I adjusted the jets to 2.5 turns. Then the long warm up.

Adjusting these screws is a pain with all the hoses and things in the way. Next time I'll slide a hose over the end of the jet to make adjusting easier. And I have no doubt that I'll be doing it again because Lump's words will eat at me until I do.

When the engine was warm I adjusted the first screw until the reading jumped from ~ 12 to ~16.

The idle RPM's were adjusted back to ~600rpm, yes lumpy I said 600. Down there the higher speed jets are kept out of the system.

Adjusting the second jet brought the reading up to ~18.

The idle RPM's were adjusted back to ~600rpm's.

No stall, no stutter, the engine just runs and I am liking the gauge.
 
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Glad everything worked, this is always a nice feeling...

Which manufacturer is the vacuum gauge?
 
Very best of news!:notworthy:
:chug:
Now-take her out for a good drive and enjoy.:D
FWIW-The idle setting for the AMC 6's is 680rpm.:eek:
Gary


P.S. Just get a screwdriver with a longer shaft to get away from the 'pluming'.
 
Thats awesome! You see, adjusting and messing with carbs is actually fun when your "schooled up". Glad shes all dialed in now! :chug:
 
Lutry - I stopped at an auto supply story and picked up a gauge in Bosch packaging. Who actually manufactured it I really don't know. For the price difference I felt it was foolish to go with Harbor Freight. I really do prefer to do these things myself

Lumpy - The passenger side is no problem. On the drivers side there is a coming together of hoses, electrical, vacuum, fuel lines and even the water temp sensor along with a difficult screw slot angle with the screw driver constantly slipping off. I tried longer, hits everything including the power steering, shorter clears the power steering but still hits, then there's the engine heat that gets you if the engine is touched for to long. The screws turn very easily so I've been thinking about how to do this easier. Some time in the past I had an engine that had a difficult to get to adjustment screw. It had a soft hose slid over the screw head. Turn the hose and the jet would turn. I think this is the solution to this problem. Attach the hose to a cold engine. Warm her up, attach the gauge and go to adjusting. No muss, no fuss, no screw driver slipping off. It could also be done with a screw driver bit inside the hose with the hose shoved on indexing the short bit, but with the ease by which the jet turns it would be over kill.

In reading and watching videos it was mentioned that the idle setting only effects the idle mixture. The setting between the two jets is a bit of a compromise between the two. It would be easy enough to reset and keep track of the turns to "closed" for both and set both needles the same. If the gauge tells me that the engine is happy that would work.

Fastatv and Wolly - I'm finding and probably should have known this all along that confidence in these matters is largely in having the right tool for the job. This gauge which is probably normal for these instruments reads both vacuum and pressure. Increasing it's versatility tremendously. When they say you need at least "this much" vacuum to install a brake booster there is no more taking it on faith that enough vacuum is there.

Here's a typical modern auto parts story. An Auto Parts store is on the way home so I stopped in there to pick up the vacuum gauge. While I'm wandering around looking for a gauge there is this new, but not so young fellow wandering around being very loud about helping customers. He was almost being rude. "Can I help you?" "Or are you just wandering around." "Be like a tree and leave." "Don't let the door....." It was al in fun banter but I found it annoying. So he storms up to me and says, "Can I help you?" I said maybe, "I'm looking for a vacuum gauge." You would have thought I'd slapped his mother. Confused he said, "For what!" .... "For checking vacuum systems on an automobile." He starts fumbling around with boost gauges. ..... "No, not boost gauges or any gauge in the dash." He's clearly getting frustrated, so I turn to another counter guy. He starts fumbling and says, "I think I know what you mean." .... "A big gauge usually with a hose hanging from the bottom." ..... "Oh yeah, and he grabs the right gauge off a rack in the back." ....... I'm sure neither one of these guys had a clue, one I would deal with again, the other, not so much. At one time a vacuum gauge was in everybody's tool box, you'd think even more so today with all the systems that depend on vacuum. Maybe it's me and those systems are all electronic now. ....... Come to think of it, maybe that's why I love my CJ.......
 
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HH-There should be a coil spring under the head of each idle mix screw so they don't turn all that easy. They are there to 'hold' the adjustment-
Glad it's work'n out:chug:

"
In reading and watching videos it was mentioned that the idle setting only effects the idle mixture. The setting between the two jets is a bit of a compromise between the two. It would be easy enough to reset and keep track of the turns to "closed" for both and set both needles the same. If the gauge tells me that the engine is happy that would work."
Yes to keep'n a log of the idle mix screw settings.
The other 'blend' here is the 'timing' and stroke of the accelerator pump.
Try this-Cold engine not run'n. Turn BOTH mix screws in to stop while count'n the turns. Are they the same? Remember about 'balance' within the carb. That leads to smooth idling--
Hint-I put a sharpie mark on the screwdriver's handle so I don't loose count or position.
You been get'n any rain? We had a serious downpour here yesterday with flood'n and all. Where I'm at is fine--
LG
 
Yes, here is a spring under the scew, but it does turn easily .... not by itself as in vibration, but it isn't sticky or difficult to turn.

I usually us the manufacturers mark on the handle to keep track. There is enough paint spatter and scares on my well used screw drivers to find a distinctive mark to help keep track if the makers mark is problematic.

Rain, we have had a great summer and now fall for rain. Yesterday we had decent rain, but not the down pour they predicted. We don't need it like some areas in water wasting California. I'm amazed to see some Californians protest water saving measures that EVERYBODY else have no problem doing. Not the overly drastic measures you hear of, just common sense things.
 
"water wasting California" :wtf: :confused:
Not where I live!
Been a 'desert-rat' for over half of my 64 yrs. :D
:poke:
LG

P.S. I take a bath almost every Saturday too-:laugh:
 
I work for Tucson Water and see the numbers. In general California uses far more water than other states in the desert southwest. Not necessarily all Californians fall in that category, but enough do. Yes, I know about the amount of water agriculture uses. Most certainly I'm hoping they/you have a good wet winter. Maybe that will slow down their attempts to snatch Colorado River water from other states. Even here in Tucson the Central Arizona Canal delivers most of the water we use from the Colorado River. We do have plenty of ground water, but various laws passed in the past 30 years have made it difficult to use it. Now following California's lead we are working toward a very sound water recycling program that the public can accept. Use - treat to a high degree - recharge in the ground - pump it back out. THe cost of moving water around is high and lift charges ...... well I could go on and on.
 
" In general California uses far more water than other states in the desert southwest."

Think that just might be because we have allot more folks here than those other states will ever have? :D :poke:

LG
 
Lumpy - That's per capita. Really there is no arguing the numbers. The numbers stand up even when comparing southern or the desert regions of California. For instance Tucson has been experiencing an increase in population and a considerable DECREASE in demand. Other regions in the desert Southwest are also experiencing smaller, but similar decreases. The odd part is it is unexplainable. Sure economics play a part, but when that is figured into the equation, along with many other factors, people are still using less water. And for those of you folks in other parts of the country, we have indoor plumbing, we take baths everyday and we don't stink anymore than you do. :) Water is a far more interesting subject than most would think. ..... but it might be boring too. :)
 
Allot more farming has started in the desert area of Imperial & Coachellia Valley in the last 15 years than at any other time.
Then we have those dang casinos that suck up water faster than $$$$.:mad:
The population has more than doubled in those areas. Far faster growth than what Tucson and such has seen.
Also Aridzona(:D)has far more wells in operation than in Southern Ca.
:chug:
Did ya take the Jeep out for a drive yet?
LG
 
:( no, not today. It certainly was a beautiful day though. I just might put on some miles tonight after the rain. Sleep hasn't come well lately. Now lots of wind, more lightning and a decent amount of rain thrown in for the fun of it.
 

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