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i believe i have an electric choke on my 1982 CJ7 that i just bought but it looks like it has been bypassed and a manual choke has been hooked up. when the butterfly is all the way open and on the drivers side of the carb if it falls off the notches then it just dies. as soon as i let it be held up by the notches it stays idling. how do i correct or fix this?? the electric choke looks like it is a round deal on the left side of the carb with an electrical prong on it but nothing hooked up to it. i would really appreciate help on this. thanks!!
the manual one does not work. you can push and pull the cable and nothing happens so i thing the cable is broken inside the casing. where should i get power from to run the electric choke??
#1=Good. Run a hot ignition wire to the connector on the electric choke. When the key is turned on the choke will start to open. So if you go to the jeep turn the ignition on to listen to the radio, work on wiring or any other reason that you dont start the motor right away the choke will be completely open even though the motor has not warmed up and may give you a hard time starting.
#2=Better. Use your oil sending unit or brown wire from your brown altenator wire to power a relay so that the choke only gets power once the motor has been started. This will solve the igniton on problem but will leave the choke having power when ever the motor is running.. Ive done alot of reading on this and it seems to be a mixed bag of ideas. Some folk will say that the air moving through the carb will keep the element from overheating. Others will say that it will cause your elemet to over heat and burn out.
#3=Best. Using a SPDT relay wire the ground wire to your oil gauge so that when your jeep is started it will kick the relay on and start warming up the choke. run the switched wire to a 180* temp switch so when the watem temp heats up to 180* (or what ever temp you Chose) the relay will be switched open and choke will shut off.
IF you need more help I can get a little deeper into the relay set up.
hey jimbo could you get me some more info on the relay setup for the electric choke?? i would appreciate it. the electric choke is the round looking object on the passenger side of the carb with the wire prong on it right? just making sure i am working on the right thing.
hey jimbo could you get me some more info on the relay setup for the electric choke?? i would appreciate it. the electric choke is the round looking object on the passenger side of the carb with the wire prong on it right? just making sure i am working on the right thing.
yeah I can send you some relay info.. Just need a few questions answered.
1. Do you know how to wire up a relay?
2. Is your jeep running?
3. Has it had the nutter bypass done to it yet?
Sorry its not fancily drawn on the comp but i didnt have to much time.
Heres Option #2 relay set up. This will allow the choke to turn on only when the motor is running but it wont shut off. Doing it this way will also keep you from having to hack into the oil pressure switch wiring and mess with the stock harness.
Here is option #3. While it seems a little more complicated it really isnt. It can also be wired a stand alone system so theres no hacking into the stock harness. The hardest thing about wiring this option up is to find a 180* temp switch.
IF $30 seems a little pricey keep in mind it has 2 spade connectors and is a common ground so it will operate 2 different devices one being the choke relay.. the other could be a electric fan relay. So if you decide down the road you want to upgrade the fan you wont have to install a temp switch.
Ive only done option 2 so far on jeeps with no hiccups yet. My current project will get option #3.
IF your comfortable monkeying around with your stock wiring harness you can make the oil pressure switch turn it on and intake temp switch turn it off.
thanks for the info. i think i will go with #2. i know how to wire up a relay. jeep starts up and runs but then it putters out. if you dont keep giving it gas then it dies out. not sure what the nutter bypass is. maybe you could explain that?? not sure if it has been done yet or not.
The nutter is when you bypass the crappy computer controlled carb. Normally makes them run better. Most folks swap in a mc2100 carb.. I kinda figured that's why you had the issue with the choke. I just realized I didn't tell you to splice the #85 wire into te brown wire from the alternator.
hey jimbo i have two questions. first one is i saw the brown wire by the alternator but it does not go to anything. i believe i have a red and black wire going to the alternator. which one do i need to splice into for the relay?? second is if i get a motorcraft 2100 carb should i still do the nutter bypass or no? thanks!!
Yes if your running the stock ignition and changing to the 2100 do the nutter bypass.
There is a plug on the alternator. There should be one big red wire that has power to it all the time. The other "should" be a smaller diameter wire that only has power when the motor is running. tap into that wire.
Heres a generic GM alternator replacement plug
On this one the white wire would need to be tapped, per the FSM the Alt wire should be brown, but with a jeep you never really know.
