Clutch linkage upgrade

[JimsCJ5]

Hey Gang, The other day the adjuster rod up and fell out of the jeep leaving us stranded for a bit. I'm tired of buying crappy omix or crown replacement parts. Is this a decent upgrade?

Clutch Linkage Rugged Ridge 16919 30 Fits 76 86 Jeep CJ7 4 2L L6 | eBay

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Don't know who made it-Does look good.
I did this conversion about 25 years ago and glad I did.
Let me suggest, that you also get a set of nylon bushings that go inside the bell-crank.
LG

 

[JimsCJ5]

Don't know who made it-Does look good.
I did this conversion about 25 years ago and glad I did.
Let me suggest, that you also get a set of nylon bushings that go inside the bell-crank.
LG

Hey Lump,
Yeah, we recently rebuilt the entire linkage including all the nylon bushings. That adjusting rod only had maybe 1,000 miles on it before it fell apart.

 

[Posi]

Another option would be a hydraulic system out of a 84, 4 cylinder CJ new parts would run you a bit more then the cost of the kit you posted.

 

[Hedgehog]

Switching out the old linkage ball and socket arrangement for a heim joint arrangement is a great upgrade. 30 years ago I did such a change, but I did it with parts I put together myself, now you can buy them off the shelf. While this is a great upgrade I don't see how it will help you with loosing the adjustment mechanism. The simple ball in cup arrangement for the clutch fork always makes me nervous so I use an extra spring between the fork and adjuster ball to hold them together.

 

[Woolyworm]

I've got it. Works great. Smoothed the clutch action up a lot. You still need a spring to hold it all together like this;


Wooly

 

[PaRenegade]

I used a Rod Links clutch rod kit that I got thru Quadratec. They offer it in no lift and a 1"-3" body lift version. It uses heim joints.


To eliminate the chance of the push rod falling away in a trail twist i added a carb linkage spring around it to keep it in place, should it get in a flex.

 

[JimsCJ5]

I used a Rod Links clutch rod kit that I got thru Quadratec. They offer it in no lift and a 1"-3" body lift version. It uses heim joints.
To eliminate the chance of the push rod falling away in a trail twist i added a carb linkage spring around it to keep it in place, should it get in a flex.

That's the ticket and it saves me $10! Thanks Pa.
And thanks to everyone else who responded.

 

[hondo]

the link in the first post is made by rugged ridge which is the same as omix

 

[Torxhead]

Since that bellcrank is designed to locate in a position perpendicular to the frame, the motor mounts have to be in good shape. Otherwise too much of the load will be on the outer ball mount and it can break. Bad mounts can cause the engine to shift to the rear where the valve cover can even hit the firewall. Ditto on those aftermarket clutch linkage parts.

 

[JimsCJ5]

Since that bellcrank is designed to locate in a position perpendicular to the frame, the motor mounts have to be in good shape. Otherwise too much of the load will be on the outer ball mount and it can break. Bad mounts can cause the engine to shift to the rear where the valve cover can even hit the firewall. Ditto on those aftermarket clutch linkage parts.

Thanks Torx, we have new motor mounts ready to install. Just need to find some time. Maybe next week...

 

[Neuner]

Another option would be a hydraulic system out of a 84, 4 cylinder CJ new parts would run you a bit more then the cost of the kit you posted.

I've been wanting the hydraulic system. Had done some reading on it and it appeared everyone had to jerry-rig theirs somehow at least with the clutch pedal arrangement and had troubles getting it set up correctly. I had been hoping it was more of a straight bolt-on type job. Was there any welding or custom pieces you had to do to get yours to work?

 

[Lumpy Grits]

The mechanical set up is a lot easier to fix and IMHO more reliable.
I just this last weekend on a jeep run saw a hydro system fail and it was tow-truck time.
LG

 

[Turbogus]

Shortly after getting my '78 CJ I went with M Class rods, they've been working seamlessly ever since;

M class Rod Links Clutch Rod kits - JeepForum.com

 

[Posi]

I've been wanting the hydraulic system. Had done some reading on it and it appeared everyone had to jerry-rig theirs somehow at least with the clutch pedal arrangement and had troubles getting it set up correctly. I had been hoping it was more of a straight bolt-on type job. Was there any welding or custom pieces you had to do to get yours to work?

I'd be happy to post pics and details when I get to that point in my build. And what fun would it be with a bolt on, isn't that what all the jk guys do?

I can't tell you how many times I got twisted up and lost my mechanical clutch especially in my 2a.

The mechanical clutch is easier to repair on the trail then a hydraulic clutch, but I'm not sure why anyone with a bad hydraulic or mechanical clutch would need to be towed off the trail. There isn't a need to use the clutch to start or drive it. When I stall on a hill I always start the engine in gear without using the clutch. I can also shift gears without a clutch by boosting the engine rpms then shifting when it drops. It would get you to a trail head were you can find a parts runner if need be.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

They lost the slave cyl. Had to be 'hooked' home.
LG

 

[JimsCJ5]

Just when you think you have it figured out...
We installed the rodlinks kit and it works but... I noticed quite a bit of movement when the clutch pedal was pushed. Turns out the linkage bracket that bolts to the bellhousing was only attached to the top mount because the bottom mounting hole had broken off. Sigh...


So what we are doing is putting in a 1/8" steel plate to replace the bottom mount. Seems to be working. I'll post pics later. Something is wrong with my photobucket account.

 

[Torxhead]

Ouch!

 

[Lumpy Grits]

I've done this repair for friends.
See if you can drill and tap(1/4x20thd)hole in the b'housing flange below the broken area to take flex out of the plate and some of the 'load' off the top bolt.
Also-I used 1" angle for rigidity.
Good luck,
LG

 

[JimsCJ5]

Here is the broken piece:


And the plate we fabbed up. It's only 1/8" but seems stiff enough. It fits between the bracket and the cover plate and bolts on using the existing holes.







Seems to be working but I think the original design leaves much to be desired. I can see the bracket flexing as the clutch pedal is worked. I may rework that bracket to extend the lower mounting position and put in a gusset.

LG, I would like to see how you solved this if you have any pics.

Also, While I was down there taking pics. Is this normal?