Clutch Replacement.

Clutch Replacement.
I do have one major question on the shifter. What is the.proper way to take the shift off? It looks like it has a small metal cover around the top of the ball. Or do you unhook the wires and unbolt the top?

FIRST-Disco the battery.
Put tranny in neutral, and remove the shifter. Just unbolt the shifter from the t'case.
LG
 
****UPDATE****

Well finally got time to attack the cj this morning. Got the Transmission and Transfer Case slid back. The thow out bearing has a zirk on it. How in the heck you suppose to get to that to maintain? Anyways getting ready to take the bell housing off.

Checked the input shaft of the Transmission as there were a few here concerned about the condition. It appears all is well. Snout for pilot bearing looks good as does the splines. Shaft has very little play. I would guess normal wear type play. As mentioned before, it never had issues as far as noise or shifting problems. Still keeping fingers crossed though. Other than years of grease oil and dirt build up, everything LOOKS good, just dirty and it's staying that way.

So hopefully we'll get it done and running today or sometime this week. Christmas tree duty yesterday put me behind. Worth it though.
 
Finally removed the bell housing and clutch. Holy cow sucker! This clutch was SMMMOKED! I had to remove the flywheel to get it refaced. Heat cracks everywhere. Waiting on the machinist to call now. Nice break between the storms. Getting it back together should prove as challenging as taking it apart.
 
Getting it back together should prove as challenging as taking it apart.

It's been my experience that it either just slips together, or you fight with it for seemly hours....

Tip: Get some bolts that fit the bellhousing where the Transmission bolts up. Cut off the heads and screw them in finger tight. This will give you guide rods to keep the Transmission in alignment with the mating surface. Have a buddy slowly rotate the output shaft to get the splines to line up as you slide the Transmission forward. Do not force it!!! Do not use the bolts to move it the last fraction of an inch. I should slide all the way in, or you've got a problem.

Good luck.
 
It's been my experience that it either just slips together, or you fight with it for seemly hours....

Tip: Get some bolts that fit the bellhousing where the Transmission bolts up. Cut off the heads and screw them in finger tight. This will give you guide rods to keep the Transmission in alignment with the mating surface. Have a buddy slowly rotate the output shaft to get the splines to line up as you slide the Transmission forward. Do not force it!!! Do not use the bolts to move it the last fraction of an inch. I should slide all the way in, or you've got a problem.

Good luck.

It's all mated up. 11 hrs. of rolling around on the floor. I think my wife is jealous now.:cool:

The only issue I'm having is the pedal play. The pedal was up by the brake pedal before all this. Now it's like 3 inches lower. I hope the pivot ball wasn't knocked out of it's spot. I don't know how it could have been because I didn't get crazy aggressive with it. It was in there when I put the bell housing on and I also installed the clutch linkage before sliding the Transmission in. I noticed with both Chiltons and the instructions that came with the clutch, they both show clutch adjustment as the last step. Is this usually required with a clutch install?
 
I think my wife is jealous now.
All part of being a CJ owner....

I noticed with both Chiltons and the instructions that came with the clutch, they both show clutch adjustment as the last step. Is this usually required with a clutch install?
Yup.

If the clutch arm isn't all wallowing around inside the bellhousing, you're probably okay. If it is, it's going to be a Very Merry Christmas for your wife...
 
All part of being a CJ owner....


Yup.

If the clutch arm isn't all wallowing around inside the bellhousing, you're probably okay. If it is, it's going to be a Very Merry Christmas for your wife...

Wallowing as in I'm guessing taking the clutch arm from the outside and see if it moves laterally as in it shouldn't correct? I'm guessing if it moves laterally, it's probably off the pivot bearing. I hope all is ok. But if it isn't, well It'll just have to come back.apart. at least nothing is broke.
 
Just checked the fork. From what I can tell the pivot ball is still in place. I fooled around with the it for a while. I ran a small magnet retrieval tool into the starter hole and came back empty. I took the flywheel cover back and didn't see a steel ball. I think it's still in place. I watched the motion of the fork at the pivot location looking through the port and it looked like it was staying in place.

I also adjusted the lever at the fork. I screwed the barrel nut out until some resistance and it brought the pedal up to around the brake pedal location. But it was at the end of the threads. The barrel nut fell off a couple times. I got it adjusted out as far as I feel that it won't hurt the threads. But that doesn't seem right. Is there supposed to be two springs on the fork or just one?
 
I've heard of this happening ..... Are you sure you have the throw out bearing in correctly? They have been put in backwards before. .... Yah I know how it sounds, but think about it. It does sound like there is something not exactly right.
 
I've heard of this happening ..... Are you sure you have the throw out bearing in correctly? They have been put in backwards before. .... Yah I know how it sounds, but think about it. It does sound like there is something not exactly right.

I'm pretty sure it's in right. On the fork, there is two dimples in the fork where the two clips on the throw out bearing snap into. I put the new one on exactly the old one came off.

I am just to the point now it would be worth the extra time to just pull the Transmission back out and make 100% sure everything is in place and installed correctly. I want it right. So that's what I'm getting ready to do right now.
 
A good way to hold the pivot ball in place is a good dab of grease on the mount it sets in.
Did you do an 'eyeball' CK on the T/O bearing to be sure they where basically the same?
Are you sure the friction disc is installed, facing the correct way?
LG
 
A good way to hold the pivot ball in place is a good dab of grease on the mount it sets in.
Did you do an 'eyeball' CK on the T/O bearing to be sure they where basically the same?
Are you sure the friction disc is installed, facing the correct way?
LG

Right now LG, I'm not sure of anything. Well I am sure of one thing. I pulled the Transmission back out and made 100% sure the ball is in place and I laid eyes on the ball. Ot's in there. I used grease on it to hold it in place and lube it.

As far the throw out baering. I didn't measure anything like thickness. It generally looked the same as the old one. The only difference was the old one had a grease zirk on it and the new one doesn't.

I remember installing the disk the right way also as it says which way it should face on the disk. I'll try to wiggle in to see if I can look in and double check it.

I'll try and post some pics also. Maybe someone may see something I'm not seeing.
 
Good call LG. I think I found it. The thickness of the new throw out bearing is a full 1/2 inch thinner than the old one. New one from front mating surface to back is exactly one inch. The old one is an 1 1/2 inches from front to back. Think that might give you excessive pedal play?
 
YES-That's it........You have the wrong T/O bearing.

LG
 
YES-That's it........You have the wrong T/O bearing.

LG

Called Oriellys just now and they are going to order me several TOB's. I'll take.my calipers with me and measure the whole thing before I leave with one. They are going to warranty the wrong one. All the other components matched up. Disk and pressure plate did look the same. It's a lever pressure plate not the diaphragm one.

Now I have to get the wrong one off.

Thanks a bunch!
 
Take the 'rite' one with you for comparison.
NAPA will have the T/O for sure.
Did you replace the pilot bearing?
LG
 
Diaphragm type are much easier on your foot and the clutch's linkage.
What brand is this??
LG
 
Take the 'rite' one with you for comparison.
NAPA will have the T/O for sure.
Did you replace the pilot bearing?
LG

Ok. I was told to bring the old one. I'll still measure to make sure.

Yeh the pilot bearing has been replaced. It fit perfectly.

I'll keep NAPA in mind if these guys can't find the right one. They should be able to.

The brand is Power Torque.

Looks like good stuff, But all new parts looks like good stuff.
 
You should also check you clutch linkage for wear. The bellcrank is know to 'egg out' over time.
 

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