coolant leak

[bearsden]

Bought an 86 CJ7 that was to have been rebuilt 20,000 miles ago. First time i drove it it leaked coolant everywhere. Seems to be coming from between the head and block after it warms up. So i took the valve cover of and checked the torq on the head bolts.all was good except the front corner #11 which was at 65# instead of 75#. The leak was coming from that corner. I torqued it to 75# and now its leaking on the other end and the new antifreeze thats leaking is brownish in color. Oil looks good.it appears to have pressure coming out between the head and block. I suppose its time for a head gasket...let me know what you think...

 

[Peanut Butter]

A head gasket is best at this point. Most likely you could have avoided this whole problem by adding some silicone to the front outter head bolt as on most heads it goes into the water chamber. But you may have needed a new head gsaket all along. Be sure to check a current manual for the proper procedures, as I may be wrong. Rod

 

[bearsden]

thanks for the info! I'm going home tonight to another long night in the garage.....

 

[johnnyreb]

might wanna check the head for possible warpage also.

 

[bearsden]

thanks for the help you guys,this is my first jeep and it looks like i'll be doing the ex/intake gaskets and a head gasket.Any good info or tips you can give me would be helpful. Sealers recommended for for either? By the way, this website sh_t !!!! not sure what i'd do without it.

 

[IOPort51]

If at all possible put the intake and exhaust on the head and torque them before you put the whole thing on the block. It will make the job a lot easier.

the manifold bolts can be a real PITA to reach with a torque wrench.

 

[Torxhead]

If at all possible put the intake and exhaust on the head and torque them before you put the whole thing on the block. It will make the job a lot easier.

the manifold bolts can be a real PITA to reach with a torque wrench.

Not to mention issues due to exaust manifold warpage. Although I did not have any problems accessing the manifold bolts, I did not think that a torque wrench was nescessary.

 

[IOPort51]

I don't put together much of any machines with out a torque wrench. It is a PITA to line the manifolds up with the head in place, double for a 4.0 head. You can misalign the ports by %20+ and not even know it.

Not to mention issues due to exaust manifold warpage. Although I did not have any problems accessing the manifold bolts, I did not think that a torque wrench was nescessary.

 

[bearsden]

thankx IO and Torxhead for the info...I was kind of hoping to just pull the manifolds back far enough to remove the head but it sounds like that would be more trouble than what its worth. I know there is alot of debate but what about sealers on the head and manifolds. I was told dry on the manifolds, but what should i use on the head gasket? supposedly everything was rebuilt on this thing 20,000 ago but i couldn't get it to stop leaking antifreeze.Once again thanks for all the help.this website is heaven sent!

 

[Peanut Butter]

"NO SEALENT ON HEAD GASKET!" Head gaskets are designed a little different than most paper or cork gaskets. They usually require a specific thickness depending on how much if any was shaved off of the block and head surface to make them straight and level. Take your old head gasket with you and go to a good auto parts store, where the guys behind the counter know a little about engine rebuilding. A head gasket that is too thin or too thick can effect engine preformance. Make sure you torque the head in the prooer maner, consult a repair manual for the correct procedure for your engine. Most start with the middle and work out. Also consider the extra money for ARB bolts for you head. Go to their web site and spend some time reading their tech information on bolt stretch and head torque. It is all in their catalog which is free. If you do these things, you will most likely never have a head gasket problem again. Rod