• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.
    To dismiss this notice
    click the top right X.

D.I.Y. High Hood Tube Fender Build

D.I.Y. High Hood Tube Fender Build
A flapper disc on a 4 inch grinder will make short work of polishing up those welds and they are very durable. They are an important tool when finishing welds. Use the flapper disc adn then follow up with a 3M Scotchbrite pad then paint over it. They will look good for your intended use.
 
I've seen the flap discs before, but forgot about them. I'm not sure if they would hold up to taking small amounts of metal off my welds though. Would they? I'm trying to take some of the welds down a bit, where my welds puddled up to high. Just working on the apprearance of my welds when I goof up.


Flap disks are the cats ***. You can use the grinding wheel for the big stuff and clean it up with the flapper. A 60 grit flap disk will remove a lot of material in a hurry and it will look better than a grinding wheel. If you like to alternate between the grinding wheel for heavier deposits and the flap disk to clean them up then a 120 grit would be better IMO.

Get a second grinder, then you don't have to switch out wheels as often. ;)
 
Thanks for your help. I will give those flap discs a shot when I do the driver's side. I'm sure the driver's side will look better then the passenger side, now that I'm learning more efficient ways to do this stuff!:chug:
 
Got the CJ pulled out of the garage today, and took some pics in the daylight. Notice the gap I need to cover where the hood curves inward. It's really annoying me. I need to do something about it.



Petecj-here's that pic of the front:



I pulled the Diamond plate off and found this!:eek:


Loosely bolted rock slider, and cut part of the diamond plate off to cover the damage. It's not bolted down tight yet and sealed on top, but you get the idea. I had a couple buddies giving more moral support as you can see in the below pic.


Any way to paint that diamond plate black, and make the paint actually stick?
 
Last edited:
~~~ I pulled the Diamond plate off and found this!:eek:



~~~ Any way to paint that diamond plate black, and make the paint actually stick?
Typical repair job... Cover it up! :)

Have the diamond plate powder coated.
 
I would put the time into the body and do it right, if I thought the body was salvagable, but I don't think it is. Lots of bondo, and cancer in the usual spots. I'm just going to use this body, until my 68 CJ5 body is restored then swap this one with that. :D
 
Typical repair job... Cover it up! :)

Have the diamond plate powder coated.

spray the aluminum with muriatic acid from a spray bottle let set, rince with water and dry, that will etch it so the paint will stick. Don't want to sound like your mother but wear goggles and gloves and don't stand down wind. :eek:

Powder coat is good too.:cool:
 
I decided against the diamond plate. I'm having flat steel 3/8 plate cut using that diamond plate piece as a template. I will counter sink the holes so my rock sliders will match the plates and look like they were meant to be together. IOPORT51, thanks for the etching tip, I might paint some of the diamond plate just to see how it holds up.
 
I decided against the diamond plate. I'm having flat steel 3/8 plate cut using that diamond plate piece as a template. I will counter sink the holes so my rock sliders will match the plates and look like they were meant to be together. IOPORT51, thanks for the etching tip, I might paint some of the diamond plate just to see how it holds up.

3/8???:eek:
holy :dung: son are you expecting an IED??
Re think that and compare weight to something more along the line of 10 Ga. It is about 1/8" and will stop most small arms fire without adding the weight of another passenger.:cool:
 
I'm not expecting small arms fire, but I need the plate to match the rock sliders thickness. It's only a small 1 ft by 1 ft piece above the rock sliders. They're already done, I'll pick them up tomarrow. I'll send pics. I also painted my roll bar today, and have my fenders traced out for what needs to be cut. I'm hoping to have them completed tomarrow as well.
 
Looks good. That really opens up the tire clearance for sure. :cool: Whats the plans for the rear??
 
3/8???:eek:
holy :dung: son are you expecting an IED??
Re think that and compare weight to something more along the line of 10 Ga. It is about 1/8" and will stop most small arms fire without adding the weight of another passenger.:cool:
I meant 3/16 steel plate.:wasted::doh:
 
Petescj, Haven't gotten to the rear yet. Any ideas? I might do some trimming, and install tube fenders in rear as well.

 
Finally got my fender cut properly to fit. I contemplated welding something together for the fenderwells, but I thought it would be convenient to remove the fenderwell without having to remove the entire tube fender. (For engine access ect...) I cut and welded tabs to the fender, and the fenderwell will bolt to the tabs. You can also see my new rock sliders and steel plating I bolted to the body for protection, and to cover the horrible sheet metal damage. Notice that my roll bar is no longer blue! :D I'm getting rid of the blue, and the bling (Chrome) 1 piece at a time!

The Old Pic





 
Last edited:
Re: New Pic

Can you give the info on how to contact the person that you bought these from? Oh, yea, I almost forgot, your fenders look great! Do you have any more pics? I love the shape of them.
 
Fake-Trucker, sorry about the long delay. I've been moving. Here is the guy's email, and phone number. The guy's name is Wes, and his email is: wheppjr@comcast.net, and his number is 360-789-0904
 
They look good mike. Thanks for sending me a link to the build :chug:. Congrats on the house by the way. I can make you some rear flares to match the front if you would like. If you need anything else give me a call.


Wes
 
Great job, I like the black look flowing into the rockers. Whereabouts in Olympia are you? I live in Yakima but my jeep is in a warehouse in Tukwilla just south of Southcenter Mall. I'm too busy getting mine running and reliable to think about fun body mods like that. But definitely something to look forward to when I have the time and resrouces.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$100.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  50.0%
Back
Top Bottom