Dana 20 Gear Reduction, twin sticks, drum brakes

[es335]

I just pulled the trigger on a Dana 20 gear reduction kit-teraflex 3:15, and, a novak twin stick kit. Anyone have any feedback on either? Installation schedueld for this week Also, I am running the stock drum brakes front and back. I really do not want to convert to disc. Any suggestions on waterproofing, or, brake shoes that will shed water a litle better?

 

[Purple77CJ7]

I installed the Tera-low gears in my Dana 20 a few years ago works great. You will need to clearance the case to get the larger gear in. It takes some time. Just follow the directions. I installed a Don's twin stick at the same time. Novak bought out Don. Everything works good and was worth the effort.

 

[es335]

Thanks! Do you ever run the jeep in front wheel drive only? Sounded like a good idea for safety purposes when you don't really need 4wd. that is what sold me on the twin stick

 

[Purple77CJ7]

Thanks! Do you ever run the jeep in front wheel drive only? Sounded like a good idea for safety purposes when you don't really need 4wd. that is what sold me on the twin stick

I have not run in front wheel drive, but knowing I can if needed to get back home and also the ability to run in two wheel low. The twin stix shift easyer and with less throw than the single shifter. My single shifter was hitting on the floor causing it to pop out of four low.

 

[73CJ]

I am running the stock drum brakes front and back. I really do not want to convert to disc. Any suggestions on waterproofing, or, brake shoes that will shed water a litle better?

Not sure why you don't want to go discs. With discs you can stop when you want even after water or mud.

A 6 bolt caliper mount is a bolt on and can be found on many 76-78 CJs with a Dana 30 . Check out junkyards,Craigslist or eBay. Look for a whole axle with discs. They can go go cheap.

You will say "Why did I wait so long for discs".

 

[es335]

73 CJ
Re the discs, re-phrase " I don't want to pay for the conversion". But, you gave me an angle I had not thought of. Absolutley will look at that type of conversion-thanks for the lead!!!!

 

[BusaDave9]

I've installed the TeraLow kit in my Dana 20 and I love it. 3 to 1 is a much better gearing than 2 to 1 for 4WD low.

It's easy to rebuild the Dana 20 and that's about what you are doing with the TeraLow kit. It replaces all the gears. One place of concern is the shims for the rear of the front shaft. Top of this picture:

You don't want a leak there. Those shims can't use any silicone seal or that would change the thickness. you can reuse the shims but make extra certain they are scraped extra clean or they will leak. I used this thread seal

It flattens down to nothing so it won't mess up the shim adjustment.



Also I have installed twin sticks. I have tried driving front wheel drive. If you lock up your parking brake you can try to pivot on your rear tires. My parking brakes don't work too good so this move works best when your front tires are facing uphill. Steer hard to the side and put on the parking brake. You can almost pivot.
Some competition 4x4s will take it one step further and install cutting brakes. These are hand levers that lock the hydraulic brake on one or the other rear brake. They work much better than the parking brake. That way you can really pivot when in front wheel drive. But is it worth it?

Also you talk about running in front wheel drive for safety reasons. If the vehicle isn't made to be run in front wheel drive I don't think it's any safer.
Do you have an open diff in front? That's important. I have a Detroit locker in front. Once when I broke my rear drive shaft and I tried to drive in town with front wheel drive. Not safe. When I took off uphill a little too quickly my locker wanted to pull my CJ to one side and then the other.

 

[Barry2]

I just installed on my Dana 20 a twin stick setup from Novak today, pretty straight forward and much nicer than that one stick pian in the neck.

 

[es335]

Barry 2 and Busa Dave,
Thank you for the response. One problem I am having is the Transfer Case will NOT stay in low range -rear axle. Does not matter if it is in 4 wd or 2 wd, in low range as soon as you start going up a hill, you can watch the shifter creep back to neutral and then pop out. The detend for low range is very "gradual", not a solid groove like the other postions. From what I have read (and from what the folks at Novak said), you need to grind a "detent" in to the shift rail to keep it in low range. Also, a stronger or shimmed spring helps. Did either of you run into this?

Re front wheel drive-both of my diffs are open. Oddly, off road, it really did'nt exhibit anymore "traction " in front wheel vs rear wheel. My thought was on the road, when you have snow and dry pavement, it may keep the rear end from sliding out.

 

[hagar]

Some folks over at earlycj5.com have drilled holes in the drums, the shoe surface, to help push the water out.
Someone even had a template at one time to lay out the holes and space them evenly; not for everyone but might be worth a look.

 

[BusaDave9]

Barry 2 and Busa Dave,
Thank you for the response. One problem I am having is the Transfer Case will NOT stay in low range -rear axle. Does not matter if it is in 4 wd or 2 wd, in low range as soon as you start going up a hill, you can watch the shifter creep back to neutral and then pop out. The detend for low range is very "gradual", not a solid groove like the other postions. From what I have read (and from what the folks at Novak said), you need to grind a "detent" in to the shift rail to keep it in low range. Also, a stronger or shimmed spring helps. Did either of you run into this?

Yes. I had that problem. I got my low kit from TeraLow and they sent me some shimms to press harder on the ball detents. I also notched the rail. I used a drill to make a small nipple in the detent.

Re front wheel drive-both of my diffs are open. Oddly, off road, it really did'nt exhibit anymore "traction " in front wheel vs rear wheel. My thought was on the road, when you have snow and dry pavement, it may keep the rear end from sliding out.

Ok, now this is the old front wheel drive vs. rear wheel drive debate. When in 2WD a jeep is meant to be in rear wheel drive and that's how I would drive it. It's just my opinion but I prefer rear wheel drive. Like I said just my opinion but if you drive nice and easy (as you should in slippery weather) the front has more weight and should give best traction. But if you are accelerating the weight shifts to the rear. If you have front wheel drive and accelerate the front wheels loose traction and you can't steer. All you can do is let up off the gas until you get your traction back.
If you have rear wheel drive and give it too much gas the rear end slides off to the side. You can still let up off the gas to get traction back but in the mean time you can counter steer since the front (steering) wheels still have traction. Sure it may take a little skill to slide around a corner but it's possible with rear wheel drive.

BTW all sports cars have rear wheel drive for this reason. Sure there may be "sporty" cars with front wheel drive but they are not sports cars (at least not in my book)

 

[mtnwhlr]

BTW all sports cars have rear wheel drive for this reason. Sure there may be "sporty" cars with front wheel drive but they are not sports cars (at least not in my book)

And the best is All wheel drive witch is just 4WD that you run all the time. So my point is if you have 4WD why would you want to just run it in front wheel or rear wheel drive on slick roads.

 

[tarry99]

Also I have installed twin sticks. I have tried driving front wheel drive. If you lock up your parking brake you can try to pivot on your rear tires. My parking brakes don't work too good so this move works best when your front tires are facing uphill. Steer hard to the side and put on the parking brake. You can almost pivot.
Some competition 4x4s will take it one step further and install cutting brakes. These are hand levers that lock the hydraulic brake on one or the other rear brake. They work much better than the parking brake. That way you can really pivot when in front wheel drive. But is it worth it?


Busa,

Funny you mentioned "Cutting Brakes" I have had a single lever rear brake in my Jeep for 35 years...came from the Dune Buggy guys.......push forward turns right, pull back and turns left. Pretty neat when the front end gets a mind of its own going up a hill. I've only previously used it with the Powr-Lok in the rear , now I'll have the same up front so it may take on another life all its own...........but I still think it will be fine...........kinda fun in loose material at 25-30 mph you could keep the front wheels straight and steer with the rear brakes!

 

[es335]

Thanks for the replies! Feel much better re the shift rail detail-seems like good advice. Mine is going in for the "fix" Monday. Rear wheel vs front...I am sticking with rear wheel. Bottom line, short wheelbase, very narrow, drive the thing accordingly.....plus, I have a roll cage....

 

[es335]

Yes. I had that problem. I got my low kit from TeraLow and they sent me some shimms to press harder on the ball detents. I also notched the rail. I used a drill to make a small nipple in the detent.



More than one spring/shim, or, just the spring/shim for low range rear wheel drive rail?

 

[BusaDave9]

More than one spring/shim, or, just the spring/shim for low range rear wheel drive rail?

I only had a problem with the rear coming out of low. I use 2 shims that fit between the spring and the ball that runs along the shift rail. Then I also detented the detent on that rail.

 

[es335]

OK-same page-thanks!