Dana 20 rear output assembly

[jakeh937]

Anyone have any experience re-assembling the rear output assembly? Iv looked online and can't find any instructions on how to do so. Just have some questions regarding it.

Thanks [emoji1303]


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[Hedgehog]

I've done it a few times, but to be honest I don't really remember it being all that difficult. The only tricky part is getting a little preload on the bearings usually the shims are very thin. Make sure the speedometer worm gear is in good shape ... note the color. If the plastic part of the gear has moved to one end or the other ..... the metal center is knurled to hold the gear in place, the gear wears some and will occasionally move .... use some liquid steel or similar on the exposed knurl and re-center the gear .... a word of encouragement, reassembly is fairly straight forward.

Edit: Oh yeah, make darned sure the thing is clean. The fit into the case is precise. keep things clean, line it up well and EASE it into the case, slow and steady.

 

[jakeh937]

I've done it a few times, but to be honest I don't really remember it being all that difficult. The only tricky part is getting a little preload on the bearings usually the shims are very thin. Make sure the speedometer worm gear is in good shape ... note the color. If the plastic part of the gear has moved to one end or the other ..... the metal center is knurled to hold the gear in place, the gear wears some and will occasionally move .... use some liquid steel or similar on the exposed knurl and re-center the gear .... a word of encouragement, reassembly is fairly straight forward.

If I remember right my speedo gear was in good condition. The only thing I'm confused on is do you have to press the shaft onto the bearings or can you heat the bearings up and slide them on? What keeps that shaft tight in the housing when it's bolted onto the case? If that's makes sense


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[jakeh937]

I've done it a few times, but to be honest I don't really remember it being all that difficult. The only tricky part is getting a little preload on the bearings usually the shims are very thin. Make sure the speedometer worm gear is in good shape ... note the color. If the plastic part of the gear has moved to one end or the other ..... the metal center is knurled to hold the gear in place, the gear wears some and will occasionally move .... use some liquid steel or similar on the exposed knurl and re-center the gear .... a word of encouragement, reassembly is fairly straight forward.



Edit: Oh yeah, make darned sure the thing is clean. The fit into the case is precise. keep things clean, line it up well and EASE it into the case, slow and steady.

If I remember right my speedo gear was in good condition. The only thing I'm confused on is do you have to press the shaft onto the bearings or can you heat the bearings up and slide them on? What keeps that shaft tight in the housing when it's bolted onto the case? If that's makes sense.

Ease the whole housing into the case? Everything is nice and clean!



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[Hedgehog]

A CJ isn't built by NASA, the bearing can easily be seated on the shaft using a piece of pipe, you can feel when it is seated.. don't worry, you'll know when it's right. I use a bearing race seating tool (AutoZone lends them out for free) and beat the races in to their place the sound will tell you when it's in place. the shims go between the race and the speedometer gear. The bearings actual bearings are held in place by the nut that holds the propeller on the shaft. Some of them use a large rubber grommet under the washer the nut turns against.

It's difficult to explain these things in words.

 

[jakeh937]

A CJ isn't built by NASA, the bearing can easily be seated on the shaft using a piece of pipe, you can feel when it is seated.. don't worry, you'll know when it's right. I use a bearing race seating tool (AutoZone lends them out for free) and beat the races in to their place the sound will tell you when it's in place. the shims go between the race and the speedometer gear. The bearings actual bearings are held in place by the nut that holds the propeller on the shaft. Some of them use a large rubber grommet under the washer the nut turns against.



It's difficult to explain these things in words.

That it is lol. I greatly appreciate the encouragement and tips. I know it's not complicated I just had a few questions and couldn't find any info on it anywhere. I'll keep the post updated!

Side note: I never knew that there was a tool to seat races. I just use my tools from work. But that's handy to know!


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[Hedgehog]

Ease the whole housing into the case? Everything is nice and clean!



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The rear bearing .... wait I have the order backwards. .... The rear race (and the front race) is seated in the casting, the rear bearing is fairly loose on the shaft. The shims go between the bearing and the speedo gear, the propeller shaft nut tightens it all up. If things are right the shaft will have just a little resistance to turning, I.E. preload. If the shaft turns freely (without the rear seal in place)add shims until there is slight resistance. Then seat the seal and put the driveshaft caseting back on and torque it down using lock tight.

Yeah, there are NASA quality tools that measure turning resistance. You don't really need it, but it does add a bit of assurance that you got it right.

 

[jakeh937]

The rear bearing .... wait I have the order backwards. .... The rear race (and the front race) is seated in the casting, the rear bearing is fairly loose on the shaft. The shims go between the bearing and the speedo gear, the propeller shaft nut tightens it all up. If things are right the shaft will have just a little resistance to turning, I.E. preload. If the shaft turns freely (without the rear seal in place)add shims until there is slight resistance. Then seat the seal and put the driveshaft caseting back on and torque it down using lock tight.



Yeah, there are NASA quality tools that measure turning resistance. You don't really need it, but it does add a bit of assurance that you got it right.

Ok that makes some good sense now. I work on heavy equipment and the other day I took apart a motor and installed the seals and bearings the way I took it apart and it was wrong. Had to assemble it by pressing the shaft on through the bearings and seals. Just wanted to make sure this wasn't some kind of weird deal like that again lol.

Thanks I'll keep u updated!


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[jakeh937]

The rear bearing .... wait I have the order backwards. .... The rear race (and the front race) is seated in the casting, the rear bearing is fairly loose on the shaft. The shims go between the bearing and the speedo gear, the propeller shaft nut tightens it all up. If things are right the shaft will have just a little resistance to turning, I.E. preload. If the shaft turns freely (without the rear seal in place)add shims until there is slight resistance. Then seat the seal and put the driveshaft caseting back on and torque it down using lock tight.



Yeah, there are NASA quality tools that measure turning resistance. You don't really need it, but it does add a bit of assurance that you got it right.

Ok so I got it half assembled.. if I'm right in order to add or remove shims, the outside smaller bearing next to the lip seals need to come out. (Ie tapping the shaft off the bearing as in disassemble) mess with the Shims, and then reinstall shaft through housing and bearing into shaft and test end play?



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[Hedgehog]

Couldn't ... didn't ... put it better myself. It is a fiddly process, but it doesn't take many attempts to get it right.

As to the bearing race tool. I've used sockets and other things many times myself. The tool has various sized tapered bushings designed to fit the taper of your bearing. They are nice and snug and make you feel like you are doing things just right. I have a set from Harbor freight, unfortunately I could only find one for metric car bearings.

 

[jakeh937]

Couldn't ... didn't ... put it better myself. It is a fiddly process, but it doesn't take many attempts to get it right.

Awesome!! Just out of curiosity, how many times can you really install/remove a bearing before its compromised being careful?


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[mriplaybass]

Both the front and rear output shafts should have an end play of .001 to .003. The rear is adjusted by adding or removing shims (they look like thin washers) behind the speedometer drive gear. They can be accessed by removing the tail shaft assembly. The front shaft is adjusted by adding or removing shims from the rear bearing cover plate directly in line with the front output shaft. The shims are shaped like the rear cover. Access is by simply removing the rear cover plate.

 

[Hedgehog]

True for the front drive bearing set-up with shims under the cover. This is for the rear shaft and a little preload is suggested. Not much, but a little.

 

[jakeh937]

True for the front drive bearing set-up with shims under the cover. This is for the rear shaft and a little preload is suggested. Not much, but a little.

I got the front dialed in. That was more of a tedious process with the rtv but was pretty simple. I greatly appreciate both of your guys' help! Once again this forum comes through!!! [emoji1303][emoji1303]


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[Hedgehog]

I know it's to late, but here's a secret I learned about those front shims. If left dry they weep oil, if you try to seal them they become too thick. Clean them well and use a very thin coating of engine thread seal, it's like pipe dope for engines oil. It will go on thinner than you can get with gasket material and won't glue the shims together.

 

[jakeh937]

I know it's to late, but here's a secret I learned about those front shims. If left dry they weep oil, if you try to seal them they become too thick. Clean them well and use a very thin coating of engine thread seal, it's like pipe dope for engines oil. It will go on thinner than you can get with gasket material and won't glue the shims together.

Oh wow that's interesting! Ya the rtv was a pain to get right. If I ever dig into that front again, I'll definitely try and remember that. Thanks!


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[jakeh937]

True for the front drive bearing set-up with shims under the cover. This is for the rear shaft and a little preload is suggested. Not much, but a little.

Just thought I'd update you and the thread.. got it dialed in. Was not bad at all., of course with the right tools. Ended with an end play of .003. Thank you again. Now time to bolt it up, prime and paint [emoji1303][emoji1303]


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