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Dana 20 twin stick help

Dana 20 twin stick help
Well, I hadn't considered a gear in backwards, but will admit that I did the same and caught it during when bench testing the unit. One of my many attempts to do the thing completely backwards. I had many instruction schematics and that gear was not well shown in any of them. If you look very closely at most of the diagrams available to us you can see a sort of diamond shape on the gear, it funnels oil to places in need of it, that was about the only thing that helped me to stay straight. I'm glad you are moving forward, keep us updated as to your progress.
 
Yeah it slipped by me. Now that I've taken it BACK apart I feel like I should have known because the only way to put it in the way I did is to put the gear and fork together and put it in the case . Oh well I guess. Its apart and cleaned. I did go ahead and order a NOS rear shift fork. I "passed" it on the initial inspection but changed my mind this go around. Its not terribly worn on the pawls but its not like new either. It should arrive mid to late next week, so the plan is to install the tcase sat or sunday.
 
Well since a tcase question turned into a do over rebuild , I might as well keep those that are interested in the know. The case has been clearance checked. I wish I hadnt changed my mind and ordered a new fork, Id put this sucker together and then install it tomorrow. Patience is a virtue, I've always had. Part shipped today. Come on already :D
 
What was warn on the original shift fork? I can not tell you how many times I clearance the wrong side of the case. It looks like your case isn't as tight as mine was. The area in the second picture was already ground on at the factory in my Transfer Case . I added some clearance and polished it up a little. It's a long reach getting in there, what tool did you use on yours? I used a HF die grinder that lasted just and I mean just long enough to get the job done. I was cleaning the grinds up when it simply stopped ..... forever. HF took it back without question.
 
Hedgehog said:
What was warn on the original shift fork? I can not tell you how many times I clearance the wrong side of the case. It looks like your case isn't as tight as mine was. The area in the second picture was already ground on at the factory in my Transfer Case . I added some clearance and polished it up a little. It's a long reach getting in there, what tool did you use on yours? I used a HF die grinder that lasted just and I mean just long enough to get the job done. I was cleaning the grinds up when it simply stopped ..... forever. HF took it back without question.
Click to expand...

The rear shift fork is worn on the contact area where it fits in the groove of the gear . I let it go last time but knew i shouldnt have. I"ll take a pic and post it. I used a straight die grinder with a carbide rotary bit. I will post a pick of the one I used. It took more grinding than most advertise but its done. Will have to wait and see about the clearance on the shift rail but i did look at it and it machined smoothed...
 
I think the fork would have lasted a long time but since im doing this over again i just ordered. maybe be a little tighter with new one...... the other pic is the tool i used. i only ended up using the one still attached to the grinder.
 
Could the shift fork's 'pad' been build up with weld, and then filed to correctly fit?
LG
 
I'd like to add this.... I understand that not everyone uses tools for a living like i do, but you get what you pay for. I bought that straight along with a 90 degree die grinder used (both were used) from the mac guy 19 years ago and i cannot begin to tell you the experience it has. I have seen HF die grinders go along way but they have to be oiled regularly.
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Could the shift fork's 'pad' been build up with weld, and then filed to correctly fit?
LG
Click to expand...

i suppose but for $30 dollars its just not worth my time.
 
As long as that new fork is not some China POS, I will agree.
I have found that Marvel Mystery Oil to work the best for my air tools. NO, they are not HF-:poke:
Mine were made by Rockwell and IR. :D
:chug:
LG
 
Mine wasn't one of their air tools, it was electric. My air tools get oiled regularly, but I don't use them very often.

That is a ton of wear for a simple shift fork, makes me wonder it the Transfer Case ran out of oil some time in it's life. Or if it failed to completely disengage at some time running excessively. As Lumpy wrote, I hope it is truly NOS, I've come to distrust Transmission parts from the two major suppliers.
 
While I know anything can happen these days , I found an AMC/Jeep guy on ebay. I had him send me a pic of the fork and it has the same casting/ numbers as the one I have. He claims it will come in a half degraded original box. I can send it back for a refund if its not NOS. Not sure how he has this stuff but he has quite an old collection of parts. Mostly AMC stuff. Well see.....Also I do agree that something could have caused the wear, I've personally not see too many but the front fork looks new. IDK. As far I can tell Novak will be the only company that will have a fork. I googled the heck out of this part. Most do not even # it in their parts breakdown. Found 2 places that have a front fork.
 
Please post up pictures of the new fork, with your worn one.
THX,
LG
 
Lumpy Grits said:
Please post up pictures of the new fork, with your worn one.
THX,
LG
Click to expand...

The new fork is the same with the same casting #'s and logo . The only difference I see is that the casting is thicker around the collar on one side that the other, allowing it to be installed in only the CORRECT position, go figure.
 
I'm having a hard time posting. wrote last post 4 times each shorter and shorter as I went. :confused:
 
Came through just fine. I do see the difference you're speak'n about. Bet the change was made because of folks that had the issue you had.
BTW: That new one has more the look of a forging, and not a casting. ;)
LG
 
not to change the subject but everytime I change pages or try to post i get logged out. I sent a message to the admin just want to make sure i didnt miss something. i know they had probs over weekend:confused:
 
If you need to clearance grind it will be on the other side. I find the difference to be interesting. When they said that not all forks need to be ground it made me wonder why. Now it is clear that there are some differences in design.
 
The case is about done. It turns out I have to grind a little off of the rear shift RAIL, its making very little contact with the intermediate gear. I didnt have the tools at the house to do this. (took them back to the shop) I took my time and am VERY confident it is right this time but I will be able to check/shift it on the bench tomorrow evening. I'll post pics of the clearancing required on the rear shift rail tomorrow.
 
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