• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

Diff Dana 44 Build for CJ7

Differentials
Diff Dana 44 Build for CJ7

aglinks

Active Jeeper
Posts
317
Resources
1
Solutions
1
Thanks
28
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
Vehicle(s)
‘83 CJ7, 4.8L Vortec, TF999, D300, AMC20, D30
Register now
You must register or login to view hidden content on this page.
Hey all!

Thanks to a couple of awesome forum members, I recently got a Dana 44 housing that has been narrowed to WT CJ width. I am planning on building this slowly and swapping it in next winter. My plan is to use Scout stub shafts and my existing CJ knuckles, brakes, and steering components. Looking at scout shafts there are different options for lengths, does anyone know which one would be the right one? Also, do I need to stick with 27 spline stub shafts or can I upgrade my hubs and use different stub shafts? I will be running an ARB locker, 3.73's, and 33's. Any advice for this build would be appreciated!
 
Sounds like a nice build. I narrowed a scout 44 to narrow track. Used my Dana 30 knuckles and 6 bolt hubs. Its my understanding they are stronger than the newer 5 bolt. I had drum brakes so I upgraded to the scout disc. Look for a Ford 44 diff cover with the flat front. Before I found one I crushed the front of my cover to where it almost touched the ring gear. This allowed for the DOM tube drag link to clear the cover when turned to stop. I went with 4.10s and a detroit. Locks when you need it and you don't need to unlock it to turn on the tight trails. If you do a lot of higher speed driving in the snow the ARB may be better.
 
Sounds like a nice build. I narrowed a scout 44 to narrow track. Used my D30 knuckles and 6 bolt hubs. Its my understanding they are stronger than the newer 5 bolt. I had drum brakes so I upgraded to the scout disc. Look for a Ford 44 diff cover with the flat front. Before I found one I crushed the front of my cover to where it almost touched the ring gear. This allowed for the DOM tube drag link to clear the cover when turned to stop. I went with 4.10s and a detroit. Locks when you need it and you don't need to unlock it to turn on the tight trails. If you do a lot of higher speed driving in the snow the ARB may be better.
What did you use for sub shafts?
 
Register now
You must register or login to view hidden content on this page.
I used the scout Dana 44 stubs. I beleive theyare the same as the Dana 30 that came in my CJ. If not someone will correct me
 
I narrowed a 78 Wangoneer 4”. Used F150 hubs and rotors
with much stronger lockouts.
 
Your inner ubolt will be bigger than your outer...it rides up on top of the flange on the pumpkin
 
The pad wouldn't do you any good for spring under, anyway

The perch goes under the flange
 
If I can find my pictures I can show you what I ended up having to do. Mind you I did spring over.
So do I grind out that webbing and weld a perch to the flange?
 
Register now
You must register or login to view hidden content on this page.

Similar threads

  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
Replies
2
Views
328
  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
TCase Dana 20
Replies
3
Views
198
  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
Replies
8
Views
79
  • Question<br> <font color=black> Reply's are voted<br> on for best answer</font> Question
    Reply's are voted
    on for best answer
Replies
4
Views
77

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom