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Does not accellerate well??

Does not accellerate well??
I am having trouble with the parts stores finding the right kit. NAPA (and any other place I stop by) wants a # off of a tag on the body of the carburetor. Mine isn't there. It looks like this is a remanufacturered carb. It has a sticker on the side that says remanufactured by Holley. I can make out 5 of the 6 numbers 64-530?. NAPA says the last one that I can't read is the important one. I checked for other #''s....one the base I see HPR stamped in it just behind the throttle linkage. The venturi size is stamped 1.08. Help?:(
 
A kit will come with pieces for various different versions, so they don't need a #. By the way, never had an issue with the GP Sorenson kits from Autozone.
 
NAPA claims there are 5 kits for this year model. I can't buy all 5 to make sure I get all of the pieces. I haven't found much help w/google other than sites saying if you have a 2100 on a jeep u need that tag
 
I always use the Autozone kits, and have never had a problem either. Just tell them the info on your Jeep, year, model, engine, Transmission , and get a kit for that year for the Motorcraft. Pull the top off of yours, look into the kit box but don't tear the clear plastic off. If the gasket in the kit looks like the gasket from your top ( air horn as its referred to ), then it will work. Not many differences in those models of carbs.
 
Thanks. I finally just removed it, and took it to NAPA. We were able to identify the correct kit from there. It will be in tomorrow. I went ahead and took it apart today and started the soak. You think this bowl was dirty? I didn't expect it to look like this. Is this normal? I will be glad to know this isn't headed into my engine any longer....


_980645.jpg
 
Def needed a good cleaning. Doubt the power valve even worked at all. I have built many of those, if you have a question, just shoot me an e-mail. These are fairly simple to rebuild
Good luck......
 
Trigger said:
Thanks. I finally just removed it, and took it to NAPA. We were able to identify the correct kit from there. It will be in tomorrow. I went ahead and took it apart today and started the soak. You think this bowl was dirty? I didn't expect it to look like this. Is this normal? I will be glad to know this isn't headed into my engine any longer....


_980645.jpg
Click to expand...

Hey Trigger, I was having problems with the multiple part numbers too! The new power valve that came with my kit was not the correct one. So I reused the old one again. (It was too big the cover wouldnt fit back over it. I could see it was the correct one for other carbs (MC2100) online, but not mine)

Point is, when you get the kit and know its all right? Would you mind taking a few photos of the parts (power valve etc) and post them up with the model number of the kit?

Thanks Bud!
~ :chug: JR
 
JR74CJ5 said:
Hey Trigger, I was having problems with the multiple part numbers too! The new power valve that came with my kit was not the correct one. So I reused the old one again. (It was too big the cover wouldnt fit back over it. I could see it was the correct one for other carbs (MC2100) online, but not mine)

Point is, when you get the kit and know its all right? Would you mind taking a few photos of the parts (power valve etc) and post them up with the model number of the kit?

Thanks Bud!
~ :chug: JR
Click to expand...

JR74CJ5,

No problem, I'll take some pics when I know for sure it is good. I spent some time comparing everything to make sure I got the right one before I open it, and I think I did. I got my kit from NAPA. It is an ECHLIN 3-965A (link below)

NAPA ECHLIN 3-965A Carb Kit

I also called tonight to order the choke pull-off since it doesn't come with the kit. Mine is fine, but there is no way I'm not replacing it while I have everything in pieces (only $10 more). Here is a link to the choke pull off.

NAPA Choke Pull Off

It also looks like you can buy the power valve as a stand alone part if you want to pull yours and replace it.

NAPA Power Valve

I haven't started reassembling. I'll post more info and pictures then. I think you'll find the pictures from NAPAs website helpful though. I plan on engraving the kit # in my carb body before I reinstall it.

I'd love to put it together tonight, but I've spent more time in the garage lately than the house if ya know what I mean! ;)

-Trigger
 
:D I finished the rebuild tonight....I cannot believe how well this thing is running. If you've followed this thread, you'll note it's a few months in the making. I believe I've got all of air/fuel mixture set correctily, but will work on it again once it cools down. I accidentally left some rubber on the driveway after my test drive if ya know what I mean! :D:chug:

JR - I forgot to take pictures (sorry), but I will say this kit was exactly what I needed with the exception of the gasket used to install the electronic choke, so I reused what was there. To be honest, it came with a simple circular gasket that I bet would have worked now that I think about it. Everything else worked perfetly. This was such an easy rebuild, and a am very new at this. If anyone is reluctant to tackle this one yourself, don't be. I'd be glad to walk anyone throught my experience if you need help.
 
No worries bud! :chug:

Yes this carb is awesome to re-build! Easy as pie! Had it appart and back together when it was snowing on side of road lol

Glad it went well!

-Jr
 
I'm glad to hear you got it running good :chug:
 
Mtnwhlr - it doesn't idle up on a cold start. What am I missing? Once warm good to go
 
Does the butterfly on top close when it gets cold?
 
I may have not set the electric choke control correctly now that I think it? Is it as easy as rotating the electric control?
 
Yes but do it when its cold so you can get the right adjustment.
 
Also - can the choke pull off be adjusted? Maybe that is it? Could it be opening to far once started?
 
You don't want it closed all the way it should be about an 1/8" open. I don't think its your choke pull off. Once your sure its closing like it should adjust the fast idle screw to the speed you want it to idle should be 1200-1500 rpms.
 
Is the fast idle screw the one on the driver side or is it one in the choke linkage on the other side?
 
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