• Hello Guest, we are proud to now have our Wiki online that is completely compiled and written by our members. Feel free to browse our Jeep-CJ Wiki or click on any orange keyword when looking at posts in the forum.

drifting timing (caution VERY long winded!)

drifting timing (caution VERY long winded!)
For reading the O2 sensor. The multimeter. Instead of a dedicated A/F gauge.

sounda like a cheap way to do it as long as you know how to relate the readings. kinda hard to do going down the road though. But better than dishing out a couple hundred on a guage if you are only going to use it a couple times.
I guess we can always do it the old way and just read the plugs.:D
 
sounda like a cheap way to do it as long as you know how to relate the readings. kinda hard to do going down the road though. But better than dishing out a couple hundred on a guage if you are only going to use it a couple times.
I guess we can always do it the old way and just read the plugs.:D
x2, and get you a good sniff of the exhaust :D
 
...for which purpose a multimeter works quite well. :)

What are you reading/measuring? I have always wondered if the O2 sensor isn't a voltage generator like a thermocouple, is it? That would just make it a temperature sensor. Inquiring minds want to know.:confused:
 
It IS a voltage generator - it's a narrow-band zirconium oxide lambda sensor. It generates roughly 0.45VDC in our target area, between lean & rich. Hyperrich fuel mix will give about 0.8VDC.

It's not a temperature sensor, although it needs to be preheated before it can start working at all. It measures oxygen ions traveling across the zirconium stratum.
 
It IS a voltage generator - it's a narrow-band zirconium oxide lambda sensor. It generates roughly 0.45VDC in our target area, between lean & rich. Hyperrich fuel mix will give about 0.8VDC.

It's not a temperature sensor, although it needs to be preheated before it can start working at all. It measures oxygen ions traveling across the zirconium stratum.

thats interesting.:cool:
 
Took the carb back off today to change the power valve and figure out what was going on with the choke. And I broke it. I couldn't figure out what was binding up in the choke linkage, so I thought I would take it apart and see. I ended up braking one of the studs for the entire choke assembly and bending the rod that goes to the butterflies. So, now what the heck do I do? Weber? Holley? Another Motorcraft? Sell the damn thing :mad: ????
 
To quote Douglas Adams, "Don't Panic". The choke control rod can be bent back the way it needs to be to work again. It's just a soft-steel rod. In a pinch, you could fabricate another one from a wire coat hanger.

The stud... get us a picture, OK?
 
can you convert it to a manual choke? If you can (should be able to) I would.
 
yeah i would do that anyway, i kinda rigged my choke i took the choke rod off and ran a manual choke cable up to the butterfly, i made me a little bracket to hold the cable still, works like a charm and cost me $6 for the cable kit. this is really just till i get around to buying a conversion kit for it
 
Hey guys. Sorry for not getting back to you about this. I went back out to the gargae after I posted to see what I could salvage. I got the stud out, I only broke it just behind the head, so there was enough of it to get ahold of and twist it out.

I tried to take the choke assembly itself apart, to use some of the pieces to convert it over to a manual choke. Well, the shaft that goes through the choke assembly that connects to the high idle cam, well the phillips head screw that holds it together stripped, I kind of lost my temper and chucked it across the garage. Needless to say, I don't think it's usable anymore...

So, I need a new carburetor. I'm done screwing with the one's that I have. Here are my options, Holley model 2300 350cfm, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 38 DGES, Barry Grant Demon 2-Barrel Road Demon 350cfm, or do you think I should try to find another Motorcraft? I've got the CFO's approval to pull the string as on this, so don't worry about helping me spend my money, what carb should I get?
 
Hey guys. Sorry for not getting back to you about this. I went back out to the gargae after I posted to see what I could salvage. I got the stud out, I only broke it just behind the head, so there was enough of it to get ahold of and twist it out.

I tried to take the choke assembly itself apart, to use some of the pieces to convert it over to a manual choke. Well, the shaft that goes through the choke assembly that connects to the high idle cam, well the phillips head screw that holds it together stripped, I kind of lost my temper and chucked it across the garage. Needless to say, I don't think it's usable anymore...

So, I need a new carburetor. I'm done screwing with the one's that I have. Here are my options, Holley model 2300 350cfm, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 38 DGES, Barry Grant Demon 2-Barrel Road Demon 350cfm, or do you think I should try to find another Motorcraft? I've got the CFO's approval to pull the string as on this, so don't worry about helping me spend my money, what carb should I get?

I put the little Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel on the wife's rig & have had good luck with it.;)
 
I put the little Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel on the wife's rig & have had good luck with it.;)


Does your wife's rig have power brakes? I have power brakes, I think I remember reading that you can't clear a four barrel with power brakes.
 
just fuel inject it and be done.:)
 
Does your wife's rig have power brakes? I have power brakes, I think I remember reading that you can't clear a four barrel with power brakes.

She has power steering, power brakes, & a Offenhauser dual port dual plane intake with the little 390 Holley.
Yes they are close, but no interference.;)
 
She has power steering, power brakes, & a Offenhauser dual port dual plane intake with the little 390 Holley. Yes they are close, but no interference.;)

Oh, really smiley756.webp

just fuel inject it and be done.:)


I said I had the CFO's approval, not a pre-approved loan from the bank :laugh:
 
It's just the air cleaner - a four-barrel works just fine with power brakes as long as you use a skinny air cleaner or one that hangs off the side. The 4v carburetors have nearly exactly the same footprint as the 2v carburetors do.

Of the carburetors you've listed... I like the Motorcraft, the Holley, and the Weber. Dunno squat about the Barry Grant.
 

Jeep-CJ Donation Drive

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.

Help support Jeep-CJ.com by making a contribution.
Goal
$200.00
Earned
$0.00
This donation drive ends in
0 hours, 0 minutes, 0 seconds
  0.0%
Back
Top Bottom