drifting timing (caution VERY long winded!)

drifting timing (caution VERY long winded!)
TDHofstetter said:
For reading the O2 sensor. The multimeter. Instead of a dedicated A/F gauge.
Click to expand...

sounda like a cheap way to do it as long as you know how to relate the readings. kinda hard to do going down the road though. But better than dishing out a couple hundred on a guage if you are only going to use it a couple times.
I guess we can always do it the old way and just read the plugs.:D
 
Old Dog said:
sounda like a cheap way to do it as long as you know how to relate the readings. kinda hard to do going down the road though. But better than dishing out a couple hundred on a guage if you are only going to use it a couple times.
I guess we can always do it the old way and just read the plugs.:D
Click to expand...
x2, and get you a good sniff of the exhaust :D
 
TDHofstetter said:
...for which purpose a multimeter works quite well. :)
Click to expand...

What are you reading/measuring? I have always wondered if the O2 sensor isn't a voltage generator like a thermocouple, is it? That would just make it a temperature sensor. Inquiring minds want to know.:confused:
 
It IS a voltage generator - it's a narrow-band zirconium oxide lambda sensor. It generates roughly 0.45VDC in our target area, between lean & rich. Hyperrich fuel mix will give about 0.8VDC.

It's not a temperature sensor, although it needs to be preheated before it can start working at all. It measures oxygen ions traveling across the zirconium stratum.
 
TDHofstetter said:
It IS a voltage generator - it's a narrow-band zirconium oxide lambda sensor. It generates roughly 0.45VDC in our target area, between lean & rich. Hyperrich fuel mix will give about 0.8VDC.

It's not a temperature sensor, although it needs to be preheated before it can start working at all. It measures oxygen ions traveling across the zirconium stratum.
Click to expand...

thats interesting.:cool:
 
Took the carb back off today to change the power valve and figure out what was going on with the choke. And I broke it. I couldn't figure out what was binding up in the choke linkage, so I thought I would take it apart and see. I ended up braking one of the studs for the entire choke assembly and bending the rod that goes to the butterflies. So, now what the heck do I do? Weber? Holley? Another Motorcraft? Sell the damn thing :mad: ????
 
To quote Douglas Adams, "Don't Panic". The choke control rod can be bent back the way it needs to be to work again. It's just a soft-steel rod. In a pinch, you could fabricate another one from a wire coat hanger.

The stud... get us a picture, OK?
 
can you convert it to a manual choke? If you can (should be able to) I would.
 
yeah i would do that anyway, i kinda rigged my choke i took the choke rod off and ran a manual choke cable up to the butterfly, i made me a little bracket to hold the cable still, works like a charm and cost me $6 for the cable kit. this is really just till i get around to buying a conversion kit for it
 
Hey guys. Sorry for not getting back to you about this. I went back out to the gargae after I posted to see what I could salvage. I got the stud out, I only broke it just behind the head, so there was enough of it to get ahold of and twist it out.

I tried to take the choke assembly itself apart, to use some of the pieces to convert it over to a manual choke. Well, the shaft that goes through the choke assembly that connects to the high idle cam, well the phillips head screw that holds it together stripped, I kind of lost my temper and chucked it across the garage. Needless to say, I don't think it's usable anymore...

So, I need a new carburetor. I'm done screwing with the one's that I have. Here are my options, Holley model 2300 350cfm, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 38 DGES, Barry Grant Demon 2-Barrel Road Demon 350cfm, or do you think I should try to find another Motorcraft? I've got the CFO's approval to pull the string as on this, so don't worry about helping me spend my money, what carb should I get?
 
elwood blues said:
Hey guys. Sorry for not getting back to you about this. I went back out to the gargae after I posted to see what I could salvage. I got the stud out, I only broke it just behind the head, so there was enough of it to get ahold of and twist it out.

I tried to take the choke assembly itself apart, to use some of the pieces to convert it over to a manual choke. Well, the shaft that goes through the choke assembly that connects to the high idle cam, well the phillips head screw that holds it together stripped, I kind of lost my temper and chucked it across the garage. Needless to say, I don't think it's usable anymore...

So, I need a new carburetor. I'm done screwing with the one's that I have. Here are my options, Holley model 2300 350cfm, Weber 32/36 DGEV, Weber 38 DGES, Barry Grant Demon 2-Barrel Road Demon 350cfm, or do you think I should try to find another Motorcraft? I've got the CFO's approval to pull the string as on this, so don't worry about helping me spend my money, what carb should I get?
Click to expand...

I put the little Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel on the wife's rig & have had good luck with it.;)
 
LongHorn said:
I put the little Holley 390 CFM 4 barrel on the wife's rig & have had good luck with it.;)
Click to expand...


Does your wife's rig have power brakes? I have power brakes, I think I remember reading that you can't clear a four barrel with power brakes.
 
just fuel inject it and be done.:)
 
elwood blues said:
Does your wife's rig have power brakes? I have power brakes, I think I remember reading that you can't clear a four barrel with power brakes.
Click to expand...

She has power steering, power brakes, & a Offenhauser dual port dual plane intake with the little 390 Holley.
Yes they are close, but no interference.;)
 
LongHorn said:
She has power steering, power brakes, & a Offenhauser dual port dual plane intake with the little 390 Holley. Yes they are close, but no interference.;)
Click to expand...

Oh, really smiley756.png

Old Dog said:
just fuel inject it and be done.:)
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I said I had the CFO's approval, not a pre-approved loan from the bank :laugh:
 
It's just the air cleaner - a four-barrel works just fine with power brakes as long as you use a skinny air cleaner or one that hangs off the side. The 4v carburetors have nearly exactly the same footprint as the 2v carburetors do.

Of the carburetors you've listed... I like the Motorcraft, the Holley, and the Weber. Dunno squat about the Barry Grant.
 
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