Electrical & Vac Line Streamlining Help?

[cj4dummyz]

PLEASE HELP: Electrical & Vac Line Streamlining (82CJ7)...

What electrical components and vac lines can I get rid of and still have this jeep run well using these components?: Weber carb (K551,32/36DGEV) Kwik Wire Wiring Harness
Stock ignition components


I need some expert advice or a mechanic or a new bottle of exedrin... Or all three.

I have an 82 CJ7 that I've taken completely apart and restored everything I can see and upgraded and rebuilt all that I can. I have my first kid coming soon so I need to make this thing run, hopefully using what I have on hand. Will try to include pics.

It's easy to get off track here because this is a 2-3 part question that I need simplified for my wrench turning brain. I've been okay and had fun upgrading the suspension, the axles, brakes, lines, fuel system, hubs, exhaust, welding, painting, and helping a friend rebuild the engine, but I've gotten to a point that has my mind all over the place.

We have cleaned, replaced, regasketed alot of the engine, put a new alternator in, new belts, optima battery, fuel pump, ignition coil, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, & wires from autozone, Weber K551 (32/36DGEV) carb, new motorcraft ICM, new starter solenoid, & new starter motor. "AC components removed" according to PO. Would like to keep the heater. Want to get rid of the sensors like 02 and whatever other electrical components I can get away with and get rid of as much unnecessary vac lines as possible. Looked into nutter bypass and team rush upgrade. Some threads say that an HEI or MSD ignition is necessary but I don't feel like spending an extra $500 if I don't have to. I have a kwik wire wiring harness and don't want to have to get a different one and start over. And there's also a "mystery box" that's rusty and says AMC in green letters on it that I can't identify. Junction block? Idk. Was on driver side inner fender.

To sum it up... Before I start setting all of this up, I want to know if the parts I have will work together and what I can get rid of and still have this thing start & run right, have the lights work, heat work, & gauges work.

*Kwik Wire Harness
*Weber K551(32/36DGEV)
*Stock ignition components replaced with ordinary autozone parts
*Motorcraft ICM
*AMC "mystery box"
*Missing some sensors (02 & others)
*Still have old vac lines, air filter housing, and wires but everything has been removed, chopped up, dismantled

What can go? What can stay? Nutter bypass? HEI? MSD? Team rush? And what is the AMC box?

If anyone can come up with a solution for how I can set this all up, then myself, my pregnant girlfriend (who wants this done ASAP) and the little guy or girl inside her uterus all thank you immensely. If you post pictures, I'll buy you a case of beer (if you live in Connecticut. Thanks. ~Paul

 

[Torxhead]

That "Mystery Box" is the ignition control module that works with the Ford Motorcraft distributor in your CJ. That distributor with the "Team Rush" upgrade will work as good as a hei distributor will. The hei has its ignition module inside its distributor. If you remove all of the emissions equipment from your vehicle a lot of those wires and vacumn lines can go with them. There is also a computer behind the glove box which will also not be needed with the Nutter By-pass. Good luck with converting all that highly engineered and complex equipment into something you can work with.

 

[cj4dummyz]

Thanks, I appreciate the help. One concern I have though, is that the weber k551 has an electric choke. The wire in the old carter ran to a choke solenoid and switch, which I'm assuming tied into that whole feedback mess that I'm trying to get rid of. Can I just wire the electric choke straight to the kwik wire harness and be done with it? Or do I need the solenoid and switch for the choke that are shown in the factory wiring diagrams??

 

[cj4dummyz]

Haynes pic...

 

[cj4dummyz]

Weber electric choke

 

[Torxhead]

I think that mystery box is not the icm, but something else. Usually the icm is located on the drivers side fenderwell under the coolant overflow bottle. I can't give you an answer on your electric choke with that kwik wire harness, but maybe you could run something with a manually operated electrical switch?

 

[cj4dummyz]

Thanks alot for that suggestion. Started thinkin about how I start my Harley and what you said makes good sense. Take the electricity out of the equation alltogether. After a little further research, I Found a nice looking manual choke conversion for the weber k551 on piercemanifolds.com for about $60. The universal ones are cheaper (around $20), but I think I'll go with quality. Thanks again.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Webber carb, HEI and junk all the computer/ignition mudule . For the electric choke you want to run a relay to activate it. Get the switch power from the exciter wire off the altenator this way it is only heated why the jeep is running. If you wire it off any other 12v ignition hot soure when you turn the key on it will automaticly start to heat up. So if your listening to the radio with out the jeep running the choke will eventually go full open and be a PITA to start. IF you dont know how to run a relay they are very easy. Google it.. or let me know and I can give you some better instructions.

My YJ.. Same motor and electronics as a CJ.. has 3 vac lines and 5 wires going to the motor including the sending units for the gauges.

 

[cj4dummyz]

Awesome. That's the kind of answer I was looking for. Do you have a pic of your engine compartment you could post? That would pretty much solve all my problems. That or diagrams you have used would be good. Thanks.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

You in luck.. I just wrapped up some wires with loom and took a few pics.. I've done a. It of electrical work in the past so I go mostly by memory for diagrams. When I get a chance ill post a few pics.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Heres the passenger side prior to the loom.


Wires going to the motor on this side are HEI power and tach wire, Altenator power, alt exciter wire/choke relay switch power, and oil pressure sender.
The rest of the wire in the loom is solenoid power and start I wire, and the tan and green wires that seem to go no where are my head light and high beam wires. They will go to a set of relays right in front of the solenoid.
The other side of the engine compartment has my choke power and temp sending unit.

Pass side looemed (this is just for pics.. I still have to add 2 more wires)


Driver side loom.. and yes I plan to cover the hole in the fire wall from the prior fuse panel. In the loom is my blinkers, running lights and horn.



For the vacuum hoses I have one that will go from the port on the right side of my carb to my HEI, One from the base of the carb to the PVC system and one from my brake booster to my manifold. all the rest of the sensors and vacuum switches have been removed. I need to take the intake with my so I can find the right size plugs for the holes.

In the back you can see my relay for the choke on the fire wall

If you were to strip it all down this is the minimum lines you need to make it run. IF you dont do the head light relay mod then you leave the lighting wire harness alone. I plan on running electric fan so I will have a few more relays and wires going to the front.

Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Oh I am using a 21 circuit ez wire kit. Paid $175 shipped off ebay Like a painless kit ez wire is marked every 5-6 inches with where the wire goes, has a decent instrction book but does not come with all the ends pre terminated.. I like to do custom wiring and add things in so I would have to hack up the painless kit. And EZ is 1/3 the price. A 18 circuit kit would have been just fine, I actually have to many wires.

 

[Jimbos76cj]

Heres what the inside of the cab looks like


Seems like alot of wires but the majority go to the steering column for blinker and ignition. plus all of my gauges are electric so I need power and sender power from all of those to.

 

[cj4dummyz]

I know it's been a while... I took a few months to wrap up all of the body work before I dig into the wiring etc. So now it's time! I'm going to try your advice and do what you said I should do. Just one more thing... I live in Connecticut, so I want to keep the heat for the winter. Can I still use my heater setup if I connect the hoses coming into the firewall? And what would the changes in wiring or hoses be if any? If you have the answer, Thanks!