Engine Engine SCREAMING!!!

[jeepwrecksd]

So this may be too vague, or maybe someone knows exactly what is going on. ‘84 CJ7 , AMC 258 i6 / 4.2l . Top radiator tank separated at the seam and sprayed coolant all over the engine compartment. Had to drive another 5 min to a place I could pull over. Temp needle never quite hit the red before I stopped. Towed it home, replaced the radiator and hoses. Thermostat was replaced about 2 months earlier, so I didn’t bother..Now, after it warms up, it makes some kind of God-awful screaming sound. Best as I can tell, it’s coming from the driver side of the motor, but I can’t seem to zero in on it any closer. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[caveman]

Only things that I can think of on the drivers side that might be screeching is the power steering pump, If you have one and the alternator. I would suggest taking your fan belt off and turning each by hand and you might be able to tell where the noise is coming from.

 

[shum8]

Could be a belt. Coolant is some slippery stuff, and may have “greased” up your belts.


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[jeepwrecksd]

Only things that I can think of on the drivers side that might be screeching is the power steering pump, If you have one and the alternator. I would suggest taking your fan belt off and turning each by hand and you might be able to tell where the noise is coming from.

New PS pump and hoses installed about 4 months ago. Belts at the same time. It sounds more like a blowing or sucking sound.

 

[Lumpy Grits]

Take the belts off and wash in soapy water and rinse.
Clean the inside of the pullies with brake cleaner.
While the belts are off, start engine and ck for noise.
Gary

 

[jeepwrecksd]

I’ll try it, but I really don’t think it’s coming from the belts. They squealed at first, but l’m pretty sure they dried out after a few minutes. This is more of a high screaming sound, and I can hear air mixed with it. And it is definitely somewhere on the side of the motor, not the front.

 

[WHATROAD]

Have you checked your vacuum lines? Cracked or pinhole they can produce some strange noises. My other question, is the noise internal or eternal to the engine?

 

[jeepwrecksd]

Seems like it’s external

 

[WHATROAD]

I'm of the same mind then as caveman. It has to be a moving part that is about to fail or has already failed. The louder the unusual noise usually the more dramatic it will be when it reveals itself. Nothing new can be presumed to be good. Four months is a long time for some of the man made products we pay good money for. The good news is that it sounds to be external. These problems take time to run down. Save money and don't replace everything to find the problem. It's a moving part that is failing when it gets spinning for awhile. If I get to throw one more dart at the possible problem, the water pump shaft. You can also buy an inexpensive stethoscope or get good at using a long screwdriver to listen to noises that pop up. The one we all hear to much.. JEEP- just empty every pocket

 

[JR74CJ5]

I know you said the temp sensor didn't show overheating, but without proper coolant level, the sending unit might have not been giving accurate temp info to the gauge.

1st suggestion, pull the water pump and make sure it didn't warp from overheating and it's tearing up the housing. I'm more familiar with AMC v-8's so might be off track here. Had a pump bearing go out on one I was helping to work on and it was a very loud wine from the wear it was causing.

From there, could be a new vac leak at the intake from overheating and breaking a seal? If it overheated enough, could have warped a head, blown a head gasket, etc. A loud "air" type wine leads me to believe a vac leak of some sort somewhere, hopefully just a gasket, not a crack in the head or intake.

I could be, and hope I am, misinterpreting the description of the noise in question... Can you take a video and post it to help others check it out?

 

[jeepwrecksd]

Thanks for all the advice, but after seeing oil steadily burning at the head and block, center driver side, I decided a head gasket replacement was in order., so I’m hot and heavy in to that. Funny thing-when I went to take the manifolds off, all the bolts were loose (screaming sound around intake?). I could use some questions answered on this operation, though.
1. Saw a lot of advice to chase the threads in the block. I have a tap and die set with the proper 7/16x13 tap, but I’m scared to death I’m going end up damaging the threads. Any Thoughts?
2. Which head bolts need sealant, and which kind of sealant is best?
3. Also saw advice to use oil under the head bolt heads when torquing. Then saw a lot of conflicting and confusing advice on wet vs. dry torque specs. Could someone clarify this for me?
Thanks, y’all!

 

[JR74CJ5]

Thanks for all the advice, but after seeing oil steadily burning at the head and block, center driver side, I decided a head gasket replacement was in order., so I’m hot and heavy in to that. Funny thing-when I went to take the manifolds off, all the bolts were loose (screaming sound around intake?). I could use some questions answered on this operation, though.
1. Saw a lot of advice to chase the threads in the block. I have a tap and die set with the proper 7/16x13 tap, but I’m scared to death I’m going end up damaging the threads. Any Thoughts?
2. Which head bolts need sealant, and which kind of sealant is best?
3. Also saw advice to use oil under the head bolt heads when torquing. Then saw a lot of conflicting and confusing advice on wet vs. dry torque specs. Could someone clarify this for me?
Thanks, y’all!

That would definitely make it scream - sucking in air.

I would only chase threads that have any issues. If they're working and tight, don't introduce new metal into the equation. Personal opinion - not a great engine builder.

And since not a pro, don't have much advice for you on the other two either - I just followed a manual and you tubes on my build. I don't ever trap fluid when torquing though, false readings and breaking. If it just goes through and doesn't trap it, I don't see much harm in torquing lubed. I wouldn't think that it would change the torque spec in my mind, but might be missing something....

 

[boney]

If you just want to clean up rusty threads instead of cutting new ones, put a cutting disk on your angle grinder and cut a slot in the threads of a new bolt that you won't be using to install you parts. The slot should be perpendicular to the threads and deeper than them. I usually cut two, on opposite sides of the bolt. Then turn them in slowly using your favorite penetrating oil as a lube. Do it like you're cutting threads, turn some, back it off a little. Back it out often to clean out the debris that will collect in the slots.

The sharp ends of the threads that you made by cutting a slot in them does a nice job of cleaning out the debris and rust without the risk of damaging the threads (or cutting new ones!)