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Flat tow bar

Flat tow bar
D

dtrojcak

Jeeper
Posts
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Location
Victoria, TX
Vehicle(s)
1978 CJ7 4.2l manual trans
I've read numerous posts on how to flat tow a jeep.

What is the difference(s) between the $87 Reese tow bar and the $200-300 tow bars?

I would most likely only actually use the tow bar about 2-3 times a year, so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on something I would rarely use.
But at the same time, I don't want to buy a cheap one and total the jeep or worse yet, kill someone if the tow bar fails.

Also, my Jeep has a Warn bumper that has the "ears" already installed.
Is it safe to attach the tow bar to those, and if so, will it attach directly or will I need some sort of adapter?
 
dtrojcak said:
I've read numerous posts on how to flat tow a jeep.

What is the difference(s) between the $87 Reese tow bar and the $200-300 tow bars?

I would most likely only actually use the tow bar about 2-3 times a year, so I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on something I would rarely use.
But at the same time, I don't want to buy a cheap one and total the jeep or worse yet, kill someone if the tow bar fails.

Also, my Jeep has a Warn bumper that has the "ears" already installed.
Is it safe to attach the tow bar to those, and if so, will it attach directly or will I need some sort of adapter?
Click to expand...

I used a towbar from harbor freight to tow the jeep from Illinois to mobile Alabama. Drilled holes for it in the one bumper close to where the bumper mounts to the frame. I had no issues. If I had to do it again however, I'd buy or rent a dolly
 
Hopefully you have already acquired much info on how to flat tow a CJ. Not really sure how the Warn bumper hooks up, but wherever you have a connection like at the ball and the CJ to the bar, there should be a chain to back up that connection. That bumper should have a good connection to the frame beyond those oem bumper mount to frame locations. At the ball to the bar it is a good idea the have dual chains in an "X" pattern. Keep the chains as short as possible in case the front of your tow rig hits something as the forward momentum will break the ball/tow bar connection and hopefully the chains will limit forward travel. You might be adding as much as 4500 lbs to the stopping ability of your tow rig, so keeping your speed down is a good thing.
 
Thanks for the responses, but does anyone have any comments about the Reese tow bar that WalMart sells?
 
I have been using a REESE universal tow bar for my TJ behind MH .
Works great,strong enough.I did weld the adjustable arms in position because they wanted to move around and I did not need the collapsible
feature.Modified the towbar to connect to the recovery/towbar tabs
on jeep. I have fabricated several towbars over the many years I have had jeeps but other than cosmetic the reese will work fine. :) mike
 
mstar said:
I have been using a REESE universal tow bar for my TJ behind MH .
Works great,strong enough.I did weld the adjustable arms in position because they wanted to move around and I did not need the collapsible
feature.Modified the towbar to connect to the recovery/towbar tabs
on jeep. I have fabricated several towbars over the many years I have had jeeps but other than cosmetic the reese will work fine. :) mike
Click to expand...
What did you have to do to modify it to connect to the recovery tabs?
 
It has been a few years so I don't rcall exactly but it seems that the towbar was setup with vertical pins rather than horiz. to go thru
tabs on bumper. Wasn't a big job and I don't have the towbar at the house so no pictures. Not much help. sorry.:( mike
 
Looks like mine that I got from 4Wheel parts and have used for many years with no problems. And I tow it over high mtn passes.
 
I've got a DrawTite, which is identical to the Reese, which is also identical to a number of other towbars out on the market.

Hooded001.webp

They are all rated for 5000# IIRC. Drill four holes in the stock CJ bumper, figure out the wiring, or just get a set of magnetic lights from Harbor Freight.

As always, check you state laws with regards to towing a vehicle.
 
I ended up buying the Smittybilt tow bar and am hoping it'll fit the d-rings.
I found a couple of reviews on some other sites that said they had used it on Warn bumpers. They were different models than my bumper, but I'm hoping all Warn d-rings are the same.
Worst case I will use the drill and mount universal brackets.
 
I would call them. It probably has something to do with width?

Reese has been around for some time and is huge in the towing business. Uhaul uses a good amount of their product on installs so I am sure it is safety tested. As mentioned don't forget chains. Many towing accidents are due to human error and not being hooked up properly.
 
The bumper brackets, for my Smittybuilt t'bar measure 33 1/2" to each outboard side.
Been flat tow'n mine for 29+ years-I strongly urge you to disconnect the rear D/S at the pinion before you tow the jeep---
Will save your T'case.
LG
 
I was wanting to know how big the actual d-rings are in the Smittybilt bumper.
I've already ordered the tow bar, should come in next week.
If it doesn't fit my Warn bumper d-rings, I can still use the universal brackets.
Thanks for the replies.
 
The towbar has a 1/2" wide 'tongue'(male)that inserts into the 'female' brackets on the bumper. They are drilled for a 3/4" dia bolt.
LG
 
What about the bracket that attaches directly to the existing d-rings on the bumper?
The tow bar I ordered is supposed to come with both mounts.
I'm hoping it will fit my d-rings, if not, I'll use the universal bolt-on bracket.
 
The brackets on my bumper are not 'D' rings---
They are dedicated tow bar brackets made buy Smittybuild over 29 yrs ago.
They are made up of a flat back section that mounts via 2, 1/2" bolts(each bracket)and the bracket has 2, 1/2" plates welded perpendicular to the back bracket .550" apart for fitment of the towbar's 'tongue'.
Think of it as a hinge. That only moves on the vertical plane.
LG
 
 
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