Ford 2100 carb install on V6 Dauntless 225
rocmoc
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- Vehicle(s)
- 1970 CJ5, V6, 3spd, power steering, headers, electric fans, upgraded larger radiator, '78 grill, disc brakes (front only), swing pedals, hyd clutch, extended front shock mounts, upgraded front driveline w larger u-joints, warn OD, D30 front diff, lockers, 2100 carb, working on a '74 tub replacement, '78 windshield frame with '78+ Acme hardtop
Since most info can be found with a search I am only adding parts # and tips left out from the other post. Bottom line she runs soooo much better. Very pleased.
After spending hours looking for a 2100 at local junk yards & craigslist, I gave up and bought a re-manufactured from the only Carb shop in Tucson, CFIS @ 2225 S 6th Ave, Tucson, AZ tel # (520) 917-5050. With the core chg, I could not even find a core, cost was just over $200. But they said the warranty was invalid if I had rust in the tank. My tank needed to be replaced anyway, was leaking, so install of a MST Poly tank and new fuel line. I did get the 1.08 carb.
Adapter was the TDP 2086 purchased from summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2086/ and a K&N Air Cleaner 60-1110 also from summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-60-1110. When installing the adapter there is a front & rear, align the adapter with the carb to make sure you install correctly. Basically the tabs bolting down the carb are longer in the front. I used a fuel safe hi-temp sealer between the gaskets of the intake & adapter. The intake had pitting from age & I could see waves in the surface of the adapter. I did not put sealer on the gasket surface mating with the carb. The carb rod linkage hooked directly to the ball connection on the carb. Also used the existing return spring, a perfect fit. I got the electric choke as mush easier to deal with. The carb air cleaner stud is a 5/16" into the carb and 1/4" thu the air cleaner. This bolt/stud can easily be found on ebay, online or local shops. I did have to lean the carb adjustments out but it started as soon as the fuel bowl had fuel. Runs so smooth that now I realize I have a exhaust leak in the right header, could not hear it before as the engine did not idle as smoothly. Hope this will help someone!
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
After spending hours looking for a 2100 at local junk yards & craigslist, I gave up and bought a re-manufactured from the only Carb shop in Tucson, CFIS @ 2225 S 6th Ave, Tucson, AZ tel # (520) 917-5050. With the core chg, I could not even find a core, cost was just over $200. But they said the warranty was invalid if I had rust in the tank. My tank needed to be replaced anyway, was leaking, so install of a MST Poly tank and new fuel line. I did get the 1.08 carb.
Adapter was the TDP 2086 purchased from summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRD-2086/ and a K&N Air Cleaner 60-1110 also from summit, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-60-1110. When installing the adapter there is a front & rear, align the adapter with the carb to make sure you install correctly. Basically the tabs bolting down the carb are longer in the front. I used a fuel safe hi-temp sealer between the gaskets of the intake & adapter. The intake had pitting from age & I could see waves in the surface of the adapter. I did not put sealer on the gasket surface mating with the carb. The carb rod linkage hooked directly to the ball connection on the carb. Also used the existing return spring, a perfect fit. I got the electric choke as mush easier to deal with. The carb air cleaner stud is a 5/16" into the carb and 1/4" thu the air cleaner. This bolt/stud can easily be found on ebay, online or local shops. I did have to lean the carb adjustments out but it started as soon as the fuel bowl had fuel. Runs so smooth that now I realize I have a exhaust leak in the right header, could not hear it before as the engine did not idle as smoothly. Hope this will help someone!
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
