Ford T18

[ksouthw80]

Hello everyone
First let me say "I know I know" but I've searched for too long!
I've purchase a Ford T-18 for CHEAP ($100). It doesn't really need rebuilding but I will probably rebuild it with Novak kit like I did my T-150 //Dana 20 (Terra low - twin sticked). I researched the #'s on the Transmission , came out of a 78 truck. Anyway, although I've researched the general google I'm looking for a thread on here being I've spent alot of time on here over the years. Please help me find a thread along the lines of 78 CJ7 AMC 304 /T-150 /Dana 20 swap to T-18 . Thank you in advance. I simply cant find it. Now that I've got my business doing ok I'm back on the build of my CJ.

Kevin
(1978 CJ in progress)

By the way its almost done - now I'm changing it up.

 

[hole]

I'm sure someone will come along with more help than me, but Novak was my best resource when I put a T-19 in my 8 years ago.

 

[HackFabrication]

I converted my 1976 Jeep CJ5 T-18 (close ratio) to the Ford T-18 (wide ratio). I gutted the Jeep T-18 and used its mainshaft in the Ford T-18 . I only had to purchase the adapter plate from AA.

You will need to get an adapter from either Novak or Advance Adapters. The Ford T-18 will not bolt to the Dana 20 Tcase without one. The adapter will include a new mainshaft for the T-18 , so you're going to go into the Transmission anyway, MAW toss a rebuild kit in it. You will need to re-use your existing Transfer Case in-put gear off the rear of the T-150 . Check the spline count. IIRC, the T-150 is six spline. Order the correct adapter kit! The T-18 should bolt directly to your existing bellhousing, as it has the correct Ford 'butterfly' bolt pattern. Not certain about pilot bearing as I have a Ford 5.0L in my CJ5 . I'm all Ford from the fans to the back of the Transmission .

 

[ksouthw80]

Hack
Have you heard anything about modifying the cross member for the drain? Not that that would be a big deal. I saw an article where this was done. I guess at this point I've got everything I need saved in the cart on Novaks website. I'll count the teeth as you mentioned to be on the safe side. I'll find out the drive shaft situation once everything is installed. BTW this is the wide ratio Ford T-18 with the cast iron cover plate as well as the case being cast. I counted the input vs output it is 6 to 1. The gears look good so hopefully there wont be any added expense while going thru the rebuild. I replaced several gears in the T-150 but in the end it is so much better than I could have imagined. Every CJ T-150 I had popped out of gear all over the place. LOL. Thank for the input.

 

[HackFabrication]

I would probably still go through the Ford T-18 and put new syncro's, etc. into it. Just my OCD....

On my build, bear in mind I have a Ford engine, I had to go with a new skidplate/crossmember. Try as I did, I could not get the 76 OEM plate to line up. I got one from Jeremy at https://throttledownkustoms.com/i-26373452-1976-1979-cj-skid-plate.html

The benefit to the above part, is that you can drop the skidplate to service the Transfer Case , etc. I didn't have him drill it for the Transmission mount or torque arm, as I wanted to line up everything first.

 

[ksouthw80]

I'll keep that in mind. (skid plate). I am ordering the rebuild kit as well.

 

[ksouthw80]

Thats a real nice skid plate plus it has the drop option. I have read where people have had to lower the plate. Now I need to look into this and determine how much if any drop I'll need. I was going to fit up the original plate and figure it out. I'll have to determine the drop before ordering the plate.

Hack - Did you have to lower your skid plate? I'm keeping in mind you have different drive train.

 

[HackFabrication]

Hack - Did you have to lower your skid plate? I'm keeping in mind you have different drive train.

No. I ordered the '0' drop. Since I have a CJ5 , I knew I was going to go with a double Cardan setup for the rear driveshaft.

I have an ever so slight vibration between 30-35 mph. If I ever get around to it, I'm going to re-check the rear driveline angle. I may need to shim the axle a little. When I did the double Cardan, I cut the spring perches and rotated the axle.

 

[ksouthw80]

When I bought the T-18 I knew the top cast iron cover was broken where the pin slides in to hold the shifter in place. See pic. Anyone know anyone that has one lying around? There are many part numbers and there are aluminum ones as well. I prefer cast if possible. A T-98 cover will work as well. This gives me a good excuse to roam the salvage yards but I thought I would ask.

 

[MoGas]

When I bought the T-18 I knew the top cast iron cover was broken where the pin slides in to hold the shifter in place. See pic. Anyone know anyone that has one lying around? There are many part numbers and there are aluminum ones as well. I prefer cast if possible. A T-98 cover will work as well. This gives me a good excuse to roam the salvage yards but I thought I would ask.

Did you find a cover? I might have what you need. I would need to see the complete top, though.

 

[cglax6]

On my build, bear in mind I have a Ford engine, I had to go with a new skidplate/crossmember. Try as I did, I could not get the 76 OEM plate to line up. I got one from Jeremy at https://throttledownkustoms.com/i-26373452-1976-1979-cj-skid-plate.html

I dropped a 351w into mine last fall with a Ford T-18 mated to my old Dana 20 and my skid plate lined up almost perfectly. I had to open the bolt holes for the frame just a touch for the adapter plate bolts to line up correctly.

What engine mounts did you use? I used the mounts from MORE.

Also, I think I used an adapter plate for a T-98 to mate the T-18 to the Dana 20 ...cheaper than getting one from Novak.