Fresh 360, doesn't like starting hot

[Germy]

Broke it in and have had it idling and coming to temp many times. I took her out for the run to the gas station. Turn it off, go in come out and it won't start., tried for 20 mins. It was spinning fast so I retarded the dizzy and got back in. Stood on the pedal and cranked it. It fired real slow and I just got home. Did I experience vapor lock from running too hot from too far advanced dizzy?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Old Dog]

It was spinning fast
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Not sure how to put this in typed words, buy if it's to far advanced it would not be turning over fast, it would be more like uuurr..uuurr..uuurr sounds more like either vaper lock or the carb boiled over and flooded it.
If you have a clear fuel filter, next time it does it see if the filter has fuel in it &/or look in the carb and work the throtle by hand and see if there is fuel squirting from the acc. pump.

 

[Germy]

Not sure how to put this in typed words, buy if it's to far advanced it would not be turning over fast, it would be more like uuurr..uuurr..uuurr sounds more like either vaper lock or the carb boiled over and flooded it.
If you have a clear fuel filter, next time it does it see if the filter has fuel in it &/or look in the carb and work the throtle by hand and see if there is fuel squirting from the acc. pump.

Ok, it does make sense. It was a strong fuel smell. My temp gauge is in the middle. I'm going to run it tomorrow, re di the timing light and shut it off and see if it starts.

 

[Germy]

If I was to run it at tdc mark with light, it sounds bad, when it sounds good its beyond 10. I'm a little off because of cam with how it should sound. I am 100% positive the timing set is lined up. Maybe off a tooth on dizzy. Should I not listen tiny head and just shoot for a specific number. I read that you advance till the idle increases then back off a hair. So just a little confused

 

[Old Dog]

with that cam somewhere around 12 would probably be right.
rev. it up to 3000 or so, should be around 30-35 ( if you have a timing tape so you can see what it's doing)

 

[Old Dog]

I read that you advance till the idle increases then back off a hair. So just a little confused

I think that should be.. advance till the vac. reading falls off than back the timing off a couple degrees.

 

[Old Dog]

good info here Set your timing - for more performance!

 

[csuengr]

Weird, my GW had a timing spec of 21-23* BTDC.

It would also heat soak. Meaning if I ran it and shut it down, if I started within 20 min, it would start fine. 25 mins to an hour, it would have to crank a while withe the gas pedal floored to start it. past 1 hour, it would start fine.

 

[paparooster]

Do you have points or hei dist ? On my hei dist I dont have vacume advance hooked up.I run full advance all the time .. I warm my jeep up then run motor up to 2500 to 3000 rpm and set it at 32 degrees advance then while its still at rpm i turn it off, it will and should shut down and not diesel at all . I bet if you have it set at 12 degrees and rev up to 2500 rpms and turn off it will diesel on you . do not hook up vac advance if you do set it a 32 degrees advance cause you are running full advance at all times and will have lots of power , remember 12 degrees advance is set for smog emissions . I bet when you have at 12 degrees and running do road and punch it will start pinging your valves will not ping when set at 32 degrees .

 

[S76]

Weird, my GW had a timing spec of 21-23* BTDC.

It would also heat soak. Meaning if I ran it and shut it down, if I started within 20 min, it would start fine. 25 mins to an hour, it would have to crank a while withe the gas pedal floored to start it. past 1 hour, it would start fine.

Your symptoms sound like a classic "Bleeding" carb. When the engine is off the carb is dribbling a small amount of fuel into the intake. If you start within 25 min. it is not flooded too badly. Longer and the fuel is puddling in the intake so it starts hard. After an hour or so the fuel puddles finally evaporate and it will start. The OP may have the same problem.

When you shut the engine off remove the airfilter and housing and look inside the carb. Sometimes the fuel will give off a white smoke and sometimes it will just smel of raw fuel. Either way that should tell the story.

Edit: Every motor I messed with I would set the total timing to 34/35 degrees at 3000 RPM's. That is a given on most all engines. Then, if the idle timing isn't right you fix that inside the distributor with different springs or cam weights or whatever you have to work with.

 

[Germy]

Hei, I have no way to measure advance that high, but yes the ping happens! Should I run full vacuum to hei and then advance by sound or by eyeballing? Reading that article now dog.

 

[Germy]

Your symptoms sound like a classic "Bleeding" carb. When the engine is off the carb is dribbling a small amount of fuel into the intake. If you start within 25 min. it is not flooded too badly. Longer and the fuel is puddling in the intake so it starts hard. After an hour or so the fuel puddles finally evaporate and it will start. The OP may have the same problem.

When you shut the engine off remove the airfilter and housing and look inside the carb. Sometimes the fuel will give off a white smoke and sometimes it will just smel of raw fuel. Either way that should tell the story.

Edit: Every motor I messed with I would set the total timing to 34/35 degrees at 3000 RPM's. That is a given on most all engines. Then, if the idle timing isn't right you fix that inside the distributor with different springs or cam weights or whatever you have to work with.

I'll check it out, it's a new eddy 600 electric choke.

 

[Germy]

On a side note, the oil pump housing gasket to timing cover is seeping. Is this a pita since the system is oiled

 

[S76]

Hei, I have no way to measure advance that high, but yes the ping happens! Should I run full vacuum to hei and then advance by sound or by eyeballing? Reading that article now dog.

Sure you do.

Take a tape measure and measure the distance from 0 degrees to 10 degrees advance on the harmonic balancer. When you get this number multiply by 3.5 and that is the distance it will be to 35. Measure from Zero and make a mark at 35. Then put a light on it.

Or get a "setback" timing light and use the factory marks.

 

[Germy]

Ok, now doing this with full vacuum correct? I'm measuring it off tomorrow. Thanks! What about that oil pump housing gasket?

 

[Old Dog]

You can do it like s76 said or measure the diameter of your balancer and buy a timing tape at the auto parts store, they are only a couple of bucks.
I set my timing with no vac. hooked up, but I run manifold vac. not ported.
If it's pinging you have to much timing.

 

[Germy]

You can do it like s76 said or measure the diameter of your balancer and buy a timing tape at the auto parts store, they are only a couple of bucks.
I set my timing with no vac. hooked up, but I run manifold vac. not ported.
If it's pinging you have to much timing.

Ok, so unplug vac, I've been doing it with vacuum on carb. Ill look for that tape tomorrow, if not s76 will get me there too!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Germy]

Stupid question on the tape. Looked at msd video and they have the tape 0 on balancer to a pointer on timing cover. On mine, the numbers are on the timing cover. If I put tape on balancer, what am I lining up with? I'm familiar with using the groove on the balancer to see where it stands, will this be useless with tape installed? Confused


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[Germy]

Sure you do.

Take a tape measure and measure the distance from 0 degrees to 10 degrees advance on the harmonic balancer. When you get this number multiply by 3.5 and that is the distance it will be to 35. Measure from Zero and make a mark at 35. Then put a light on it.

Or get a "setback" timing light and use the factory marks.

Am I marking the balancer or the timing cover. If I put a mark on balancer, do I line the mark up with the pointer on the timing cover. Having trouble understanding

 

[Germy]

If I mark the balancer like it is marked from factory with a mark at the measured 35 then I bring that new mark to meet up with pointer at tdc? Am I making sense?