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Glutton for punishment

Glutton for punishment

Vikingone

Senior Jeeper
Posts
594
Thanks
6
Location
Lake Worth FL
Vehicle(s)
85' CJ7, 4.2 Liter, swapped in T18
I’ve decided I’m going to pull the motor out of my old girl and go thru the motor. Transmission and Transfer Case is already out and the front clip is off so it’s not much more to pull her. I’m gonna be replacing gaskets. Bearings, and piston rings. All I’m seeing is crown and omix piston rings but am afraid to use them. Anyone ever use them or have another brand they really liked?


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Look on Rockauto.
 
With it being stock I don’t need .10 or more correct


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Gotta mic the c-shaft mains and con-rod bearing to know for sure.
Not uncommon for the OEM engine to come out with +.010.
Mine did.....;)
It's coded on the P/S of the block, who knows what the PO did.
LG
 
With it being stock I don’t need .10 or more correct


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Gotta mic the c-shaft mains and con-rod bearing to know for sure.
Not uncommon for the OEM engine to come out with +.010.
Mine did.....;)
It's coded on the P/S of the block, who knows what the PO did.
LG
:agree:
The only way to know for sure is to check it out. If someone already did a rebuild, there is no way of knowing for sure what the dimensions are. I pulled a AMC 304 a couple years ago with the intent of just doing rings and bearings. Once I got all the grease and grime off the block, I found a professional's rebuild tag on it. Before ordering the parts, I put a micrometer on the journals and found out they were .010 under size. When I put a bore gauge in the cylinders, they were .030 over. Cleaning the piston tops also uncovered the .030 stamp. Weird thing is, I decided to put the old rings back in the bores just to satisfy my own curiosity, and discovered that a professional rebuilder had put stock size rings on .030 over pistons!

Check everything! Don't assume a PO did it correctly.
 
Go hard or go home...

If you're going to take it apart, you need to do it right when you put it back together...as if you have no idea what the PO did and check everything you can.

If it were me, I'd strip the block and take it to a machine shop and have them clean and paint at the very least. Have them check cylinders and bore if need be. If they have to bore, then you're in for new pistons. Take a look at the crank journals (inspect and mic) and have a machine shop hone if it needs it...if everything is in spec, you should just need new bearings.

The issue with taking an engine apart is you're opening up Pandora's box. You don't know what's in there until you open it, and you can't just put everything back together...Murphy says there's always an issue. I recommend managing your expectations and budget for a full rebuild. If you run into a snag anywhere, it's gonna cost $$ and time.
 
Go hard or go home...



If you're going to take it apart, you need to do it right when you put it back together...as if you have no idea what the PO did and check everything you can.



If it were me, I'd strip the block and take it to a machine shop and have them clean and paint at the very least. Have them check cylinders and bore if need be. If they have to bore, then you're in for new pistons. Take a look at the crank journals (inspect and mic) and have a machine shop hone if it needs it...if everything is in spec, you should just need new bearings.



The issue with taking an engine apart is you're opening up Pandora's box. You don't know what's in there until you open it, and you can't just put everything back together...Murphy says there's always an issue. I recommend managing your expectations and budget for a full rebuild. If you run into a snag anywhere, it's gonna cost $$ and time.



This is true. Thanks!


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