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Help with removing engine wiring

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Help with removing engine wiring
A

Austin

Jeeper
Posts
129
Thanks
0
Location
Bel Air, MD
Vehicle(s)
84 CJ7 - 258 i6 4.2
Trans - Borg-Warner T-5
Tansfer Case - Dana 300
Tomorrow I hope to tackle removing the tub off my 84 CJ7 and before removing the body mounts and bolts, I need help removing the engine wiring. Engine is staying on the frame so only looking to take the necessary wiring off to get the tub cleared.

Is it best to remove all the wires from the engine side...or from the dash side...

Here are some pictures to help you help me...

IMG_3159.webp

IMG_3155.webp

THANKS!
 
Last edited:
Have you thought of just pulling the engine side of the firewall plug / fuse block? Just unplug that , it more than likely needs cleaning and dielectric replacement, and leave everything but the heater motor hooked up?:cool:
 
IMG_3146.webp

assuming your talking about the fire wall plug / fuse box in this picture?

I am tossing the old body and replacing it with this so is there an ideal way of removing the wiring to save extra work when putting the new one on...

IMG_3106.webp

IMG_3110.webp

already has a new heater box and motor.
 
so I am now assuming that you are speaking about the wiring behind the dash?

once you pull the dash and disconnect the gauges the rest unplugs pretty easily. the wiring under the dash is not that complicated, just hard to get to with the dash on. :cool:
 
Yes that is what he is talking about there is a screw in the middle of it pull it and it will unplug from the fuse block. You will also need to unplug the wires going to your computer and pull the harness tru the firewall on the right side by your batt.
 
IOPort51 said:
so I am now assuming that you are speaking about the wiring behind the dash?

once you pull the dash and disconnect the gauges the rest unplugs pretty easily. the wiring under the dash is not that complicated, just hard to get to with the dash on. :cool:
Click to expand...

View attachment 10458

Dash is pulled guess now just unhook the fuse box here and I should be set?

View attachment 10459
 
mtnwhlr said:
Yes that is what he is talking about there is a screw in the middle of it pull it and it will unplug from the fuse block. You will also need to unplug the wires going to your computer and pull the harness tru the firewall on the right side by your batt.
Click to expand...

View attachment 10460

Ok here is the firewall box with the bolt/ screw.

View attachment 10461

Then here is the harness running to the computer...and here is the computer

View attachment 10462

Does that big white pig tail/ adapter feed through the firewall?
 
Are you keeping the dash you pull intact or will it be painted to match the red? I pulled my dash and left everything intact, bought another dash and sent it to the paint shop. I just got it home this weekend, so I'll be transferring for the old to the new painted for the next step. Whatever you do label everything and take pictures.
 
Project86 said:
Are you keeping the dash you pull intact or will it be painted to match the red? I pulled my dash and left everything intact, bought another dash and sent it to the paint shop. I just got it home this weekend, so I'll be transferring for the old to the new painted for the next step. Whatever you do label everything and take pictures.
Click to expand...

I've already pulled the original dash after disconnecting everything. Bought a new dash that is the same red line x paint. Just need cut and drill the new one for the instruments. Any idea the best way to do this? The speaker slots are already cut. Figured I would use the old one as a template but not sure what the best tool/saw to use would be.
 
For the oil and amp gauges just use a 2" hole saw and the speedo one is so big you can use a sabersaw.
 
mtnwhlr said:
For the oil and amp gauges just use a 2" hole saw and the speedo one is so big you can use a sabersaw.
Click to expand...


Should be able to use the reciprocating saw for the steering column hole too right?
 
where did you buy a dash that was this stage of unfinished and why?:cool:

It has speaker holes but no column cut out??



Austin said:
Should be able to use the reciprocating saw for the steering column hole too right?
Click to expand...
 
IOPort51 said:
where did you buy a dash that was this stage of unfinished and why?:cool:

It has speaker holes but no column cut out??
Click to expand...

Picked it up off a guy that bought all brand new steel replacement body parts that decided not to build. Not sure where and why he ordered it this way so now its up to me to fab the dash. As to why there are speaker vents cut out already...who knows. He might have started the cutting process but never got to the other holes. Want to make sure I go about it the right way from the start.
 
Austin,
I sent mine to a metal shop in Waldorf called Cardinal Scientific and gave them the old one and they hooked me up and cut everything and then powder coated it all for 40.00:chug:
 
Thanks. I'll reach out to them. They cut based on what you ask for right. Basically I need to template it out first right?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
I brought a template. However bring the gauges and they will work with you. Ask for Brian. Tell him he hooked me up.


Michael
 
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