Electrical Pairing down factory wiring harness

[Manic Mechanic]

Genesis GHG1500A 12.5 Amp... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EU2T8GG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Nothing special

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[Patrick]

Crimps over an insulating sleeve or heat shrink can be done fast and conveniently. But they are less than ideal. For the ultimate in reliability (pull, vibration resistance and conductivity), you can’t beat the open barrel crimp type. These are tricky to crimp correctly and not as easy to get, and is the OEM industry standard. They definitely don’t need any soldering and in fact are better than soldered joints, and also grip the insulation. Of course, this is debatable and you can use what you are confortable with. But I thought sharing this might be useful for the looks and quality obsessed.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Crimps over an insulating sleeve or heat shrink can be done fast and conveniently. But they are less than ideal. For the ultimate in reliability (pull, vibration resistance and conductivity), you can’t beat the open barrel crimp type. These are tricky to crimp correctly and not as easy to get, and is the OEM industry standard. They definitely don’t need any soldering and in fact are better than soldered joints, and also grip the insulation. Of course, this is debatable and you can use what you are confortable with. But I thought sharing this might be useful for the looks and quality obsessed.

I believe the ones I have are the barrel type. I had to get a new crimper just to use these

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[Patrick]

There is the open and closed barrel crimp. You can do a search and find out. This is actually a great topic to go through. Check it out.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

There is the open and closed barrel crimp. You can do a search and find out. This is actually a great topic to go through. Check it out.

I will

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[pg_jglr]

Crimps over an insulating sleeve or heat shrink can be done fast and conveniently. But they are less than ideal. For the ultimate in reliability (pull, vibration resistance and conductivity), you can’t beat the open barrel crimp type. These are tricky to crimp correctly and not as easy to get, and is the OEM industry standard. They definitely don’t need any soldering and in fact are better than soldered joints, and also grip the insulation. Of course, this is debatable and you can use what you are confortable with. But I thought sharing this might be useful for the looks and quality obsessed.

As you said this assumes a good crimp, so don't do what I did and buy a cheap crimper tool. I need to buy a good one because my crimps suck right now.

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[TSB8C]

As you said this assumes a good crimp, so don't do what I did and buy a cheap crimper tool. I need to buy a good one because my crimps suck right now.

When dealing with any crimp connectors, and using good quality ones is better, you must have a good crimper tool. Just squeezing hard with a pair of pliers or even using some lesser crimp tools will give you nothing but bad results and electrical gremlins to chase down. Get a good ratcheting crimp tool that requires you to close it fully tight before it will release. I solder the majority of my stuff, but I do use this Ticonn crimper when I use crimp lugs or barrel connectors. It's got three different size jaws, ratchets down, and I like blue

 

[Patrick]

Here’s a bit more to consider for this subject.

If you crimp, don’t solder. If you solder, don’t crimp. Terminals can be had in solder or crimp style. Of course, the crimp style is more practical and readily available. And if you want to take your terminal solder joints to the next level, use a resistance soldering station, not an iron. Again, this is for those that are obsessed with the high end of quality.

 

[Manic Mechanic]

Just realized I didn't post any pics of the closer to done work. I still need to do the distributor wiring and alternator harness.

I need to find a better place for these other than just behind the battery tray

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